I don't think I know what I'm doing on the bike.

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presta

Guru
Ideal cadence is 80 to 100 rpm.
Optimum cadence is dependent on power output, 100rpm might be optimum for an Olympic athlete, but that's not likely for mere mortals, and it still varies with workload: you need a higher cadence uphill than downhill.

From Coast & Welch:

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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Optimum cadence is dependent on power output, 100W might be optimum for an Olympic athlete, but that's not likely for mere mortals, and it still varies with workload: you need a higher cadence uphill than downhill.

From Coast & Welch:

View attachment 712943

View attachment 712944

View attachment 712945

Overly technical for a beginner though like the OP. I suspect they are pedalling too slowly.
 

presta

Guru
I suspect they are pedalling too slowly.

That might depend on what they're trying to achieve.

Finding optimum cadence is helpful if you're trying to get the most out of the fitness you already have, but if you're training, deliberately increasing your workload can also be beneficial. You could argue that the definition of training is deliberately increasing your workload, like a runner training by running along a sandy beach dragging a car tyre behind him. I recall following a training program that included sessions of deliberately riding in too high a gear to strengthen leg muscles.
 
That might depend on what they're trying to achieve.

Finding optimum cadence is helpful if you're trying to get the most out of the fitness you already have, but if you're training, deliberately increasing your workload can also be beneficial. You could argue that the definition of training is deliberately increasing your workload, like a runner training by running along a sandy beach dragging a car tyre behind him. I recall following a training program that included sessions of deliberately riding in too high a gear to strengthen leg muscles.
I only cycle to keep fit, but I am willing to put reasonable effort in while being reasonably comfortable.

More effort goes in when climbing a hill, but the benefit is more, from the exercise and the endorphones after.:bicycle:
The OP says they don't know what they are doing or understanding gears. If they are running out of gears...
Currently I can easily run out of gears going down hill. The cadence would be reasonably high too.

Just like Alex321 explained in post #13.

There is one question I have though. If I did want to make the gearing a bit higher what would I change - the cassette OR the large chainring?
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
There is one question I have though. If I did want to make the gearing a bit higher what would I change - the cassette OR the large chainring?
To raise gearing you can either make the chainring bigger or the smallest sprocket smaller. You're probably at the limit with an 11T sprocket so the chainring is what you would change.

I know there are some exotic cassettes (specifically for 1x?) with 10T or less, but I'm pretending they don't exist.
 
Sorry if i piggybank this thread but i'd rather not start a new one.
I have a 11-28 10 speed rear cassette on my nine year old Giant Defy and i'm still getting up the hills ok but at seventy could do with some extra gearing.
When i enquired with my LBS about fitting 11-34 they said the problem would be with the rear derailleur fitting but 11-32 would be fine.
Would having those four extra teeth make a difference?
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Sorry if i piggybank this thread but i'd rather not start a new one.
I have a 11-28 10 speed rear cassette on my nine year old Giant Defy and i'm still getting up the hills ok but at seventy could do with some extra gearing.
When i enquired with my LBS about fitting 11-34 they said the problem would be with the rear derailleur fitting but 11-32 would be fine.
Would having those four extra teeth make a difference?

What rear mech, as some will struggle to get a 34T. The guy who I bought my 'used' CX bike had just fitted a new long cage 105 rear mech (10 speed) as the previous medium cage mech wouldn't shift to a 32T. You can usually get away with a couple more teeth than the stated max so long as the chain is long enough and the B screw is right in.
 
What rear mech, as some will struggle to get a 34T. The guy who I bought my 'used' CX bike had just fitted a new long cage 105 rear mech (10 speed) as the previous medium cage mech wouldn't shift to a 32T. You can usually get away with a couple more teeth than the stated max so long as the chain is long enough and the B screw is right in.
At the moment Shimano 105 5700 or 5701? short cage mech.
 
To raise gearing you can either make the chainring bigger or the smallest sprocket smaller. You're probably at the limit with an 11T sprocket so the chainring is what you would change.

I know there are some exotic cassettes (specifically for 1x?) with 10T or less, but I'm pretending they don't exist.
OK dogtrousers, Thanks for clarifying that a larger chainring is the way to go. Currently my large chainring is 50 Teeth, I wonder what size would be appropriate ?
 

boydj

Legendary Member
Location
Paisley
You need to pedal faster - aiming for a cadence of 80 to 100. On 50/11 you should be able to exceed 30mph at max and comfortably hold 20mph without going to the 11 if you have a decent cadence. It sounds to me like you are grinding at a fairly low cadence.

How far and how quickly are you cycling?
 
You need to pedal faster - aiming for a cadence of 80 to 100. On 50/11 you should be able to exceed 30mph at max and comfortably hold 20mph without going to the 11 if you have a decent cadence. It sounds to me like you are grinding at a fairly low cadence.

How far and how quickly are you cycling?

What does Ginding mean in the context of cycling?
 
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