I changed my chain, now it slips

[Beebo]

I swapped my chain at the weekend after approx 1800 - 2000 miles from new. I cleaned and oiled the chain regularly it was more than 0.75% stretched but less than 1%.

It now slips every couple of pedal strokes, but only when I ride in the 6th cog at the rear. No other cogs slip.

The 6th cog is the one I use most of the time (probably 80% of my cycling is in that cog), so have I run the chain for too long and worn out this cog? It seems a bit quick as the bike is only 6 months old.

If so can you replace individual cogs or is it best to change the full cassette?

 

[Kestevan]

Yep, you've worn it.

If you continue to ride with the worn cassette you will knacker your new chain.

Depending on the cassette, you may be able to replace only the one cog, some cassettes allow the individual cogs to be seperated out, you may well be able to find a suitable replacement at SJS cycles or Petra cycles, they have a selection of individual sprockets.

 

[gaz]

1800 miles out of a chain is quite a lot!! I certainly don't get that much.

 

[guitarpete247]

If you keep an eye or your chain wear and change it before it's completely horlicksed you should avoid too much damage to your cassette. I find that 3 chains to one freewheel/cassette.

Did you change your chain after checking against a chainwear tool? Or was it starting to slip so you changed it?

Yes you did. I'd not read your post properly.

 

[wheelnut]

I assume that you are referring to 10 or 11 speed derailleur systems. The narrower the chain, (to work with systems above 8 speed) the shorter the life of the chain. There have been a lot of reports of Shimano chains cracking. If one sprocket on a cassette is used/worn more than the others you can just change the sprocket. Shimano cassettes only fit onto the splined freehub body one way. The cassettes are usually part rivetted or screwed together with just the last few sprockets which need to be fitted. Undo the rivets/screws and separate the sprockets and spacers. A good bicycle shop should be able to make up custom cassettes, so should be able to get you the sprocket size you need. The whole assembly including the replacement sprocket can be slid back onto the Shimano freehub body and tightened up with the lock washer, which will hold all in place.

If you want a durable bike, dump the 10 speed and move down to 8 speed and switch to a square taper bottom bracket and chainset. Not the latest fashion, but you should get a hell of a lot more miles for your money than with all the latest gear and it should cost less money to boot. One of the reasons Shimano and others kept deleting the older derailleur systems/spares is that they were more durable, so you bought less. Aided by what now passes as a cycling press, who exhort their readers to buy the latest fashion/fad manufacturers are promoting, as 'you can shave x number of grams or seconds off your bike/ride time'. It is all hoakum. A bicycle is now a commodity which is designed to fail just like your washing machine, flat screen TV or other electronic goods, so you buy more. If you break, or crash your carbon fibre frame, your loss. There was a time if you bought a new quality bicycle, the frame came with a lifetime guarantee for the original owner and you could expect to get at least 9000 miles or more from a chain and bottom bracket.

'You pays your money and makes your choice' as the old adage goes.