hydraulic disc brakes

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MikeW-71

Veteran
Location
Carlisle
Shouldn't be very long really. With new pads, what I will do is get the bike up to speed and brake HARD to a near stop, then repeat a few times in a row. This should do most of the job of bedding in the pads.

What kind of issues are you having?
 
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Michael86

Active Member
Shouldn't be very long really. With new pads, what I will do is get the bike up to speed and brake HARD to a near stop, then repeat a few times in a row. This should do most of the job of bedding in the pads.

What kind of issues are you having?
I have ridden about 15 miles, and they are not as sharp as my old v brakes, when I first got them
 
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Michael86

Active Member
What make are they? They should be every bit as sharp as anything you've ever owned. Are the pads or rotors contaminated?
Promax Decipher Hydraulic Disc 160mm Rotor, shouldn't be contaminated as they are brand new. I having to press harder on my levers
 
Location
Loch side.
Bedding in of disc brakes takes some skill and methodology.

The process transfers friction material from the pad to the disc and also completes the curing process on the pad material itself.

Bedding in is done by braking and coming to a stop from a slow speed. Braking should NOT be hard but gentle, for approximately 10 stops. The brake performance will increase noticeably and then stabilize, which indicates the end of the braking in period. If you brake hard at first, too much material will be deposited and not evenly, and the brakes will always underperform, vibrate or squeal.

Always bed in one brake at a time and do not attempt to do it whilst doing a functional ride. You will not have enough control over the process.

Resin and metal pads don't bed in the same. The latter takes longer.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
The Magura discs on my Rose trekking bike have never been as sharp as the Shimano and Tektro disc brakes on my other two bikes.

On t'other hand, the Maguras are easiest to modulate, which I believe they are known for.
 
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