How do you undo a KMC link

[youngoldbloke]

Just changed the (KMC 8 speed) chain this evening on my winter bike. Important to release the tension on the chain - as has been said - chain off the chainrings and on the smallest sprocket - push two halves of link towards each other, slight side to side flex and it's all done. Just like that!

 

[psmiffy]

Could not find a pair of suitable pliers in my toolbox

6" of offcut of gear or brake cable - thread thru both adjacent links - pliers or mole grips - twist to tighten - easy

(resurrected due to need )

 

[phantasmagoriana]

I just use the chain link pliers - I think the ones I've got are http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWPMLP/jobsworth-pro-master-chain-link-pliers. It's possible to remove the link without, but they make life much easier (especially when taking the chain off to clean it, etc.).

 

[Crackle]

Wow, old thread. I can do it with long nosed pliers now but still not by hand but I have all KMC chains now too.

 

[DaveReading]

"Have the chain on your largest chainwheel, with the quick-link to the front of it. Hold the crank and pull the lower length of chain forward one tooth on the chainwheel. Move the one tooth’s-worth of slack up and around the teeth, so that the quick-link and one other link form a sticking-out V. Tap the point of the V sharply with a something hard and heavy (a hammer is ideal but a rock will do) and the quick-link will slide open – just like that!’
I tried this method on several chains. Some quicklinks needed little pinch first (or a sharper tap) and it helps to aim at the side of the link without a slot at that end, but if you do that it always works a treat! Ian assures us that there is no danger of damage to the teeth, because the chain is forced into their roots where they are strongest."

http://www.cyclinguk.org/file/member/201107050_0.pdf

 

[Drago]

I use a KMC de-link tool. Easy.

 

[Crackle]

"Have the chain on your largest chainwheel, with the quick-link to the front of it. Hold the crank and pull the lower length of chain forward one tooth on the chainwheel. Move the one tooth’s-worth of slack up and around the teeth, so that the quick-link and one other link form a sticking-out V. Tap the point of the V sharply with a something hard and heavy (a hammer is ideal but a rock will do) and the quick-link will slide open – just like that!’
I tried this method on several chains. Some quicklinks needed little pinch first (or a sharper tap) and it helps to aim at the side of the link without a slot at that end, but if you do that it always works a treat! Ian assures us that there is no danger of damage to the teeth, because the chain is forced into their roots where they are strongest."

http://www.cyclinguk.org/file/member/201107050_0.pdf

That pdf is just a load of gobbledegook for me but the description does

 

[youngoldbloke]

Try this one

 

[slowmotion]

I've never tried this method but it seems to work in the clip.
[media]
]View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwYLnNSSeBs[media]


If you want to avoid amputating your fingers, you can tighten up the wire by twisting the ends with a pair of pliers.

 

[huggy]

I couldn't do it till I had A tool to do it. £3.25 well spent.http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-ma...email&utm_campaign=orders&utm_content=product

 

[slowmotion]

Sometimes they come apart as easy as pie just using your fingers, and sometimes they absolutely refuse to budge without some real force. I have a pair of KMC "un-do" pliers for use back at base, but it tends to be a bit hit and miss out on the road. The "whack it on the chain ring" technique looks really useful.