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HobbesOnTour
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Arrival into Santiago.
Santiago was a disappointment.
There! I said it!
It is incredibly commercialised and full of shops selling Camino tat.
Thankfully it wasn't the end of my journey, otherwise I'd have been very disappointed. At first, I was amused by the offerings of the shops and had a wander around. Religious symbols in the form of statues, jewellery, T-Shirts, baseball caps, alongside similar with images that were far from religious. The amusement soon turned to disgust, though and I had to stop. It just seemed so very far from the theme of a Camino pilgrimage. Obviously I was in a minority because so many of these shops were not just surviving, but thriving.
The Cathedral, as would be expected, was more subdued. I was touched at the number of confessionals open, offering the sacrament in multiple languages and the numbers of people availing of them - perhaps seeking forgiveness for buying tat earlier!
I did take a wander around the Cathedral but avoided participating in the religious ceremonies. I try to be as respectful in these situations as I can be and am interested in the crypts and relics in an historical as opposed to a religious sense.
The statue of St. James, the touching of which is the purpose of the Camino according to most, was difficult to reach due to the works taking place. I have no recollection if I touched it or not - heresy to a lot of Pilgrims. My Camino wasn't about that, though.
Despite my lack of enthusiasm for Santiago, I definitely enjoyed the process of my arrival, the excitement building as I got closer to the city and then the Cathedral itself. Like the first day back in St Jean, there was an excitement in the air although the tone seemed different, more subdued. There was the first glimpse of the Cathedral (the end point), which for me was later than most others - I missed it at the first spot! The paths became wider, firmer and more city-like meaning I had to resist the urge to roll faster. Even the typical noise of a city (and an airport) added to the excitement.
There's an almost ever present character playing a form of the bagpipes (actually closer to the Irish Uileann pipes) as a reminder of the Celtic heritage of North East Spain. He sets himself up under an arch/tunnel close to the Cathedral and is known not to suffer fools! That was a nice jolt of familiarity in a strange place.
Travelling solo, when we arrive at a destination such as the Cathedral we have no one to celebrate with. I just rolled up, parked up the bike and thought "I've made it".
The fact that the Cathedral was covered in scaffolding I found to be hilarious. Almost 3000km and my final view is covered in building materials!
I loved the square, though. Watching the arrivals was wonderful. People celebrating in all different kinds of ways - cracking open beers or champagne, singing, crying or praying. Even the hawkers selling every kind of tat and service imaginable were tolerable. Post Camino Spiritual therapy sessions were one of my favourites! I was approached by at least three different people offering a bike packaging & shipping service too.
There's a Pilgrim's Mass every day that many attended. I met two English guys who had bike packed their own route, sleeping in ditches. I kept an eye on their bikes while they went to the Mass.
Later, the bars and restaurants were doing a roaring trade with satisfied, if shattered, Pilgrims.
It was a week later when I claimed my Certificate for completing the Camino. Something that didn't seem terribly important when I started took on a greater significance at the end. I wouldn't have viewed the trip as a religious one, yet, when pushed, I realised that it was certainly spiritual.
The queue was amusing since some people were complaining about the length of time. I didn't get it - several weeks on the road and an hour is too much to stand in a line with people who have done the same? The Camino spirit can disappear pretty quickly!
Some observations
I picked up the habit of visiting churches which I still have. There are some magnificent churches and Cathedrals along the way, yet my favourite was a small, simple country church, all wood and stone.
The stillness of Churches, their great age, their coolness (and occasionally dryness!) offered a regular place to sit quietly, to contemplate, to re-prioritise. On a long journey that can be invaluable.
I never once locked my bike outside a church en route - there was no need.
(Other things noteworthy about the churches; Quite a few had lights operated by a paid for timer - drop a coin and there's light in the church until your credit runs out!
Instead of the traditional lighting up of a candle for personal intentions, we could often choose an electronic candle! )
I still have my Pilgrim Passport with all the stamps I collected. I can't recall all the stamps, but some I do. I framed it, hung it in my kitchen and sometimes daydreamed looking at it. Every stamp represented a place, an incident, a place I slept or ate. Some, like some photos, hold a deep resonance for me. (It was amusing to me watching some people attempting to accumulate as many as possible - literally hopping from one store to another in little villages).
I developed the habit of taking at least one "road" shot every day - a view of what was in front of me. When I got home I had a poster made out of them that served as inspiration for my next bike adventure. I still do that now, many more than one per day.
I think it is a wonderful experience to be savoured.
The history along the route is just so interesting, exceeded only by the people to meet.
There is something mystical, inspirational and satisfying about following a route traversed by so many people - then and now, so long as we can take the time to think about it.
Facilities are close, frequent and great quality - I'm thinking especially of food here.
In any case, tackling a popular Camino route can be done with a minimum of planning simply because there is an abundance of accommodation, food and water options as well as a very sophisticated infrastructure of public and private transport options. (I'm talking more of logistical planning than physical preparation).
It is so easy to navigate that even I could manage to follow the arrows. My only instance of being lost occurred after a downpour when I emerged from a little café in a little village and promptly set off in the wrong direction! Going against the flow of pilgrims was pretty obvious!
A huge advantage that a cyclist has over a walker is the ease we can cover distance. We get to see so much more than a typical pilgrim who often has to choose between mutually exclusive options. We can stop, pretty much at will and not suffer the "bed anxiety" of the walkers. The downside is that we miss out on the "Camino family" experience of walkers who encounter each other many, many times on their trek, making bonds that often last a lifetime.
There is simply a massive emotional support network to tap into at any time. Nearly everyone has the same objective, is suffering the same doubts and pains. An invisible energy floats along the route, available to all. That was no more evident than on that first morning out of St. Jean. The excitement in the air was palpable and inspiring - so much so that I abandoned my road route to follow the magic.
Not everyone can immerse themselves in such an overpowering energy, at least in the beginning. It takes a certain amount of courage or perhaps desperation to just "go with the flow" and to trust the environment and those around you to see that you come to no harm. It is another advantage a walker has over a biker - they have the time to be baptised in this energy and to walk in it.
If I could do it again I would take as much time as possible to complete the route. There are so many places to be alone, to be in a friendly group, to eat and drink well, to contemplate, to visit, to explore that it seems a waste to fly through it. I took 14 days from St. Jean to Santiago and think it was too short.
I don't consider my Camino as a typical bike tour. It was certainly very different from the legs before and after.
The "Albergue Rhythm" was very, very different! Never have I been so early abed and so early up on a bike tour.
The quantity of pilgrims coupled with the quality of the route means that a particular kind of asshattedness is required to cycle at a "normal" pace.
The frequency and density of infrastructure meant that my head was totally free of the usual logistical issues of where to eat, drink or sleep. It is amazing where our heads can go when freed of such concerns!
If you can give yourself the gift of time the Camino will give you all you need for a basic level of comfort, the headspace and energy to live a little on a different plane and probably most importantly, an emotional support network to help you through.
If you want a more "normal" bike tour experience I'd suggest sticking to the roads, the larger towns and cities and staying in hotels - there are surprisingly few campgrounds along the route I did. In fact, I'd probably go further and suggest making your own route visiting the places you want to visit, as opposed to slavishly following a Camino route. Based on my experiences post Santiago, northern Spain is close to paradise for cycle touring!
One final thing. I wasn't the only person to start their Camino at their own door, but there were very, very few of us. I was delighted to meet a little old lady, into her eighties, walking in France and heading for Santiago! Such an inspiration! She, however, was far from impressed meeting me - she had no time to stop for conversation!
By the time I rolled into St. Jean, I was already on the road about a month. I think that left me in a better place, psychologically, when I joined the other Pilgrims, many of whom struggled to adapt to life on the road in the first days. Obviously not everyone can start from home, but on a bike, we have options where we start. Failing that, give yourself lots of time for the first couple of days to gently descend into the Camino flow. It'll be time well spent.
For me, the Camino part of my trip was over. I was meeting a lady friend and we were going to cycle for a week together, then I was going to be turning around and cycling home. First, though, was a trip to the Hospital because my undiagnosed injuries were still incredibly painful!
Santiago was a disappointment.
There! I said it!
It is incredibly commercialised and full of shops selling Camino tat.
Still so far away!
Thankfully it wasn't the end of my journey, otherwise I'd have been very disappointed. At first, I was amused by the offerings of the shops and had a wander around. Religious symbols in the form of statues, jewellery, T-Shirts, baseball caps, alongside similar with images that were far from religious. The amusement soon turned to disgust, though and I had to stop. It just seemed so very far from the theme of a Camino pilgrimage. Obviously I was in a minority because so many of these shops were not just surviving, but thriving.
The Cathedral, as would be expected, was more subdued. I was touched at the number of confessionals open, offering the sacrament in multiple languages and the numbers of people availing of them - perhaps seeking forgiveness for buying tat earlier!
I did take a wander around the Cathedral but avoided participating in the religious ceremonies. I try to be as respectful in these situations as I can be and am interested in the crypts and relics in an historical as opposed to a religious sense.
The statue of St. James, the touching of which is the purpose of the Camino according to most, was difficult to reach due to the works taking place. I have no recollection if I touched it or not - heresy to a lot of Pilgrims. My Camino wasn't about that, though.
Despite my lack of enthusiasm for Santiago, I definitely enjoyed the process of my arrival, the excitement building as I got closer to the city and then the Cathedral itself. Like the first day back in St Jean, there was an excitement in the air although the tone seemed different, more subdued. There was the first glimpse of the Cathedral (the end point), which for me was later than most others - I missed it at the first spot! The paths became wider, firmer and more city-like meaning I had to resist the urge to roll faster. Even the typical noise of a city (and an airport) added to the excitement.
There's an almost ever present character playing a form of the bagpipes (actually closer to the Irish Uileann pipes) as a reminder of the Celtic heritage of North East Spain. He sets himself up under an arch/tunnel close to the Cathedral and is known not to suffer fools! That was a nice jolt of familiarity in a strange place.
Travelling solo, when we arrive at a destination such as the Cathedral we have no one to celebrate with. I just rolled up, parked up the bike and thought "I've made it".
The fact that the Cathedral was covered in scaffolding I found to be hilarious. Almost 3000km and my final view is covered in building materials!
I loved the square, though. Watching the arrivals was wonderful. People celebrating in all different kinds of ways - cracking open beers or champagne, singing, crying or praying. Even the hawkers selling every kind of tat and service imaginable were tolerable. Post Camino Spiritual therapy sessions were one of my favourites! I was approached by at least three different people offering a bike packaging & shipping service too.
There's a Pilgrim's Mass every day that many attended. I met two English guys who had bike packed their own route, sleeping in ditches. I kept an eye on their bikes while they went to the Mass.
Later, the bars and restaurants were doing a roaring trade with satisfied, if shattered, Pilgrims.
It was a week later when I claimed my Certificate for completing the Camino. Something that didn't seem terribly important when I started took on a greater significance at the end. I wouldn't have viewed the trip as a religious one, yet, when pushed, I realised that it was certainly spiritual.
The queue was amusing since some people were complaining about the length of time. I didn't get it - several weeks on the road and an hour is too much to stand in a line with people who have done the same? The Camino spirit can disappear pretty quickly!
Some observations
I picked up the habit of visiting churches which I still have. There are some magnificent churches and Cathedrals along the way, yet my favourite was a small, simple country church, all wood and stone.
The stillness of Churches, their great age, their coolness (and occasionally dryness!) offered a regular place to sit quietly, to contemplate, to re-prioritise. On a long journey that can be invaluable.
I never once locked my bike outside a church en route - there was no need.
(Other things noteworthy about the churches; Quite a few had lights operated by a paid for timer - drop a coin and there's light in the church until your credit runs out!
Instead of the traditional lighting up of a candle for personal intentions, we could often choose an electronic candle! )
I still have my Pilgrim Passport with all the stamps I collected. I can't recall all the stamps, but some I do. I framed it, hung it in my kitchen and sometimes daydreamed looking at it. Every stamp represented a place, an incident, a place I slept or ate. Some, like some photos, hold a deep resonance for me. (It was amusing to me watching some people attempting to accumulate as many as possible - literally hopping from one store to another in little villages).
I developed the habit of taking at least one "road" shot every day - a view of what was in front of me. When I got home I had a poster made out of them that served as inspiration for my next bike adventure. I still do that now, many more than one per day.
I think it is a wonderful experience to be savoured.
The history along the route is just so interesting, exceeded only by the people to meet.
There is something mystical, inspirational and satisfying about following a route traversed by so many people - then and now, so long as we can take the time to think about it.
Facilities are close, frequent and great quality - I'm thinking especially of food here.
In any case, tackling a popular Camino route can be done with a minimum of planning simply because there is an abundance of accommodation, food and water options as well as a very sophisticated infrastructure of public and private transport options. (I'm talking more of logistical planning than physical preparation).It is so easy to navigate that even I could manage to follow the arrows. My only instance of being lost occurred after a downpour when I emerged from a little café in a little village and promptly set off in the wrong direction! Going against the flow of pilgrims was pretty obvious!
A huge advantage that a cyclist has over a walker is the ease we can cover distance. We get to see so much more than a typical pilgrim who often has to choose between mutually exclusive options. We can stop, pretty much at will and not suffer the "bed anxiety" of the walkers. The downside is that we miss out on the "Camino family" experience of walkers who encounter each other many, many times on their trek, making bonds that often last a lifetime.
There is simply a massive emotional support network to tap into at any time. Nearly everyone has the same objective, is suffering the same doubts and pains. An invisible energy floats along the route, available to all. That was no more evident than on that first morning out of St. Jean. The excitement in the air was palpable and inspiring - so much so that I abandoned my road route to follow the magic.
Amusing graffiti at times provided a laugh and a connection with people unseen.
Not everyone can immerse themselves in such an overpowering energy, at least in the beginning. It takes a certain amount of courage or perhaps desperation to just "go with the flow" and to trust the environment and those around you to see that you come to no harm. It is another advantage a walker has over a biker - they have the time to be baptised in this energy and to walk in it.
If I could do it again I would take as much time as possible to complete the route. There are so many places to be alone, to be in a friendly group, to eat and drink well, to contemplate, to visit, to explore that it seems a waste to fly through it. I took 14 days from St. Jean to Santiago and think it was too short.
I don't consider my Camino as a typical bike tour. It was certainly very different from the legs before and after.
The "Albergue Rhythm" was very, very different! Never have I been so early abed and so early up on a bike tour.
The quantity of pilgrims coupled with the quality of the route means that a particular kind of asshattedness is required to cycle at a "normal" pace.
No asshats here, please!
The frequency and density of infrastructure meant that my head was totally free of the usual logistical issues of where to eat, drink or sleep. It is amazing where our heads can go when freed of such concerns!
If you can give yourself the gift of time the Camino will give you all you need for a basic level of comfort, the headspace and energy to live a little on a different plane and probably most importantly, an emotional support network to help you through.
If you want a more "normal" bike tour experience I'd suggest sticking to the roads, the larger towns and cities and staying in hotels - there are surprisingly few campgrounds along the route I did. In fact, I'd probably go further and suggest making your own route visiting the places you want to visit, as opposed to slavishly following a Camino route. Based on my experiences post Santiago, northern Spain is close to paradise for cycle touring!
One final thing. I wasn't the only person to start their Camino at their own door, but there were very, very few of us. I was delighted to meet a little old lady, into her eighties, walking in France and heading for Santiago! Such an inspiration! She, however, was far from impressed meeting me - she had no time to stop for conversation!
By the time I rolled into St. Jean, I was already on the road about a month. I think that left me in a better place, psychologically, when I joined the other Pilgrims, many of whom struggled to adapt to life on the road in the first days. Obviously not everyone can start from home, but on a bike, we have options where we start. Failing that, give yourself lots of time for the first couple of days to gently descend into the Camino flow. It'll be time well spent.
For me, the Camino part of my trip was over. I was meeting a lady friend and we were going to cycle for a week together, then I was going to be turning around and cycling home. First, though, was a trip to the Hospital because my undiagnosed injuries were still incredibly painful!
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