Help/Advice needed - my chain slips (especially when I am trying to accelerate hard or ride uphill)

[Marc_Lew84]

Hi all,

I'm quite a newb when it comes to cycling as I've only been riding for around 18 months. My apologies if my situation sounds stupid/naïve/melodramatic or downright absurd.

As mentioned, 18 months ago I finally gave up spending over an hour each way commuting on public transport, so I decided to buy a pushbike and I've really never looked back. (So far, my personal best in 19 minutes each way - I'm quite proud of that).

My first bike was a Claud Butler Oregon which I bought from a local Independent bike shop. Until about 3 weeks ago, I'd only suffered minor problems (worn tyres, punctures and a buckled back wheel) which even I was able to sort out with relative ease. However, I have recently noticed that my chain slips, especially when I am trying to accelerate hard and when trying to ride uphill.

I'm really looking for advice as to what the most common cause is, whether it would be an expensive fix and whether it's something I could do myself?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Best Wishes
Marc

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Hi Marc!
You only been cycling 18 months, already got worn tyres?
You must do a lot of miles!
Anyway, every now and again (somebody more technical than I will come along in a minute ) you must change your chain as it stretches.
If you don't, the back sprockets will wear out too, and eventually the front ones.
There is a measuring tool to check chain wear.
If the chain skips, it needs changed, but if the sprockets are worn too, the new chain won't take to them.
Tree chains, I think, before you need to change the back sprockets if you catch the stretching on time.
How much it costs? It's up to what your components are.
Example: my old 5 speed's freewheel (back sprockets) only costs a tenner, the chain about a fiver.
No doubt, a never, more expensive bike, will have more expensive components.
You can do the job yourself, but you need some tools, like a freewheel (o cassette) remover and a chain splitter.
Watch a few You Tube videos to give you an idea of what's involved.

 

[ColinJ]

Yes, as Pat says ... There is a good chance that you left your chain on too long and it wore out and has taken your cassette (cogs at the back) and chainrings (bigger ones at the front) with it. If you only replace the chain, then there is a very good chance that the new chain will slip too. I have done that and only got a few yards down the road before the slipping became a problem.

It can get a bit expensive changing everything at the same time, but if you have to do it, you have to do it!

The thing to do is to keep your new transmission clean and properly lubed in future, and to replace the chain when it is a bit worn, but not so badly that the cassette and rings are worn to fit it. If you do that, you might get through about 3 chains before having to change the other parts. (Chains are cheaper than a cassette and set of chainrings, so it makes sense not to try and get too much life out of each chain.)

All of which reminds me that I need to check my bikes, and that I have not taken my own advice!

 

[w00hoo_kent]

Position I'm in with my Sirrus commuter, I left the first chain too long between changes and the second chain has never been right. I've just bitten the bullet and bought the lot, chain rings, cassette and another chain. I bought a wear guide tool while I was at it, I think I paid Wiggle around £80 in total for the bits. I have both a cassette wrench and a nearby friend who is a bike nut with a complete set of tools for everything so will probably use the latter for most of the work although none of it is rocket science (youtube videos are your friend.)

 

[albion]

1 ) Position middle rear (4th on 7 speed and 5th on a 9), check that when peddling chain is equidistant when entering cassette at bottom.
2) Undo the singular dérailleur tension screw to near max. If you can't get the lowest big rear cassette running smooth tighten the screw up until it does.

 

[Globalti]

When you say the chain slips, do you mean that when you're riding along in gear and put pressure on the pedals, it suddenly lets go and the cranks crunch round? Or do you mean that it doesn't change gear accurately and the chain jumps with a graunching noise?

If the former, yes you need to replace everything. If the latter, you just need to adjust the cable tension.

 

[w00hoo_kent]

My Sirrus is exhibiting the former, worse on the 34 tooth ring but still now and then on the 50 tooth. I figured I could replace each individual bit and never get it right, having damaged the first part by the time I gave up and replaced the last. So it's everything even though the current chain doesn't have that many miles on it.

 

[Dogtrousers]

It's not possible that it's something as simple as a stiff link is it? That will cause the chain to jump while under pressure, but occurs very regularly (once per chain rev, which you can convert to pedal revs by dividing chain length by chainwheel teeth).

Probably not, but I thought I'd say as the other options are way more expensive.

 

[up hill struggle]

im having the same problem on my mountain bike, i will approach a section of road where i want to change down to a lower gear but soon as i put pressure on the peddles the chain seems to slip or jump before it re-seats on the ring then is fine after that. Its getting to be a bit on the dangerous side.

Went to halfords today and was talking to the bike technician who told me it sounded like i needed a new chain & possibly sprockets if they were worn aswell. after i told him the bike was only 3 weeks old he said somethings not set up right & to bring it over & he would check it over for me.

great i thought until i got over there only to be told he could look at in about 2 weeks time as they had bikes to built & 24 others out back that were in for services & repairs.

 

[albion]

Since I converted a road bike to flat bar with granny gears I have had a similar problem.
I improved it but it still can happen unless I use the biggest 42 front ring on the triple chainwheel.

I'll be removing a few more links for the next chain change.
up hill, check that your middle rear cassette is dead centre and make sure the front deraillur is well clear of the chain at the time it is likely to jump. Any sideways pressure adds to the problem, I know !

 

[albion]

Since I converted a road bike to flat bar with granny gears I have had a similar problem.
I improved it but it still can happen unless I use the biggest 42 front ring on the triple chainwheel.

I'll be removing a few more links for the next chain change.
Check that your middle rear cassette is dead centre and make sure the front deraillur is well clear of the chain at the time it is likely to jump. Any sideways pressure adds to the problem, I know !