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OP
OP
robsa

robsa

Veteran
Location
chesterfield
Ohhh that's "bordering" on the ridiculous but I'm too bushed to tackle this thorny problem. Maybe if I think about it in privet.........
 
OP
OP
robsa

robsa

Veteran
Location
chesterfield
Given it a quick wash
WP_20151004_001.jpg
WP_20151004_002.jpg
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
View attachment 105714
Well, the Dawes is stripping down nicely, everything appears to be hardly worn.
But....
First problem.
The sprocket set is very loose. Any ideas how I tighten ut back up?
Looks like the bearings in the freewheel have gone, you may be able to strip and regrease/replace. The ring with the 2 little round 'dents' is what you need to remove but good luck on getting it back together.
 

Bobtoo

Über Member
They aren't too bad to build back up if you are patient. There will be shims inside it that you can remove to reduce the play a bit, you still need some play though.

If the rear derailleur is branded as Sachs-Huret it will have been replaced in the mid-1980s, the original would have been the same unit but branded as Huret. They were practically a consumable because they were always catching the spokes.
 
OP
OP
robsa

robsa

Veteran
Location
chesterfield
Was wondering if it would be easier to bin the whole cluster and get a new set? If so, how do I take it off? Its got two smallish wholes in the centre and a 2 prong centre . I haven't a tool to fit either
 
OP
OP
robsa

robsa

Veteran
Location
chesterfield
I might have a run to Worksop there's a cycle shop there what also breaks bikes for spares. I'm sure they'll have a 27x1 1/4 with a decent rim and cluster for pennies, the rim on this is pretty scrofulous and I can't see the point divvying about with it
 

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
If your lucky you can use a small screwdriver and hammer to remove that top plate with the 2 small holes in. It's reverse thread if I remember correctly so you need to go clockwise. Put the whole wheel flat with the block facing up. Once you have that ring off you can drop some oil on the top bearings and remove a shim or 2. It will never be great but will reduce the play.

My local LBS usually remove these and the maillard type for free, especially if your going to buy a new block.
 

Bobtoo

Über Member
I believe the 68 on the BB shell is the angle and it might have said Davis Components once.

This is the tool you'll need if you're going to remove the whole freewheel http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARK-TOOL...CKRING-TOOL-/251583576260?hash=item3a938cb8c4 As Tony Raynor says an LBS will probably do it for nothing so it depends how often you are likely to use it. It was worth it for me because I like being able to chop and change freewheels and wheels. You're probably right to sack off the whole thing though, the chrome does look quite far gone.

My Dawes Fox from 1979 was rebuilt with 700C wheels before I got it and it seems to work fine with them. It looks as if you have more than 4mm spare drop on the brake pads so 700C would be an option.
 
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