Headset totally loose (crap) and marks in fork.

[DRM]

Out of interest, what Brand/Model of fork is it?

 

[CyclingStone]

Give it a tap with a screwdriver and you'll soon tell if it's metal or a composite material. Anyway, have you tightened the bung yet?

This fork is trashed, I won't touch it. Alu fork is on its way. Here do you have photos, you need to agree that you were very wrong. Just the weight in itself tells you that it can't be aluminium, not a chance in hell.

 

[Milkfloat]

It is certainly carbon, but where is the bung?

 

[CyclingStone]

It is certainly carbon, but where is the bung?

Of course it is carbon. It just stupid with this constant reply that it's not because I have seen it many times here and on other sites. Guys (and girls) it is not diamonds, carbon steerers are not that rare...

 

[DRM]

Of course it is carbon. It just stupid with this constant reply that it's not because I have seen it many times here and on other sites. Guys (and girls) it is not diamonds, carbon steerers are not that rare...

Those pictures show what it is, the first ones looked like aluminium in the light you'd taken them in

 

[Milkfloat]

Of course it is carbon. It just stupid with this constant reply that it's not because I have seen it many times here and on other sites. Guys (and girls) it is not diamonds, carbon steerers are not that rare...

To be fair the original photos were a bit crap. So - where is the bung, you need that in the right place, ideally level with where the stem will end up.

 

[CyclingStone]

Offset is very important.

So I got confused again. But I will give it another try because you guys can obviously be wrong too....

I can't find a fork anywhere which is 50 mm offset, tapered, and rimbrake. SOO I just have this very simple question, I don't need any edge in any form. Can you go from a 50 mm offset fork to a 43 mm (or whatever offset). Because there is a fork with 43 mm and I need a fork so bad right now.

 

[mickle]

... because you guys can obviously be wrong too....

A reduction in offset will deliver a similar (slightly greater) increase in trail. An increase in trail will increase the directional stability of your bike at speed but will also make it less 'responsive'. Luckily for you the dimensional differences are so small that you'll probably not notice any change in the handling at all.

 

[mickle]

So I got confused again. But I will give it another try because you guys can obviously be wrong too....

I can't find a fork anywhere which is 50 mm offset, tapered, and rimbrake. SOO I just have this very simple question, I don't need any edge in any form. Can you go from a 50 mm offset fork to a 43 mm (or whatever offset). Because there is a fork with 43 mm and I need a fork so bad right now.

What's your head angle? Have you accounted for your axle to crown dimension? What is 'edge'?

 

[fossyant]

It's about time you went to the bike shop with your current fork for them to advise.

To be polite, you clearly don't know what you are doing, so save yourself trouble and more expense.

 

[mickle]

What a circus.

How much money did you save by purchasing this bike rather than one from a reputable brand/dealer?
How much time have you spent in your attempts to sort it out (including the time you've spent on this forum)?
How much additional time and money will you expend before you have a working bicycle that you're happy with? (estimate)
What is your professional hourly rate when you work?

Do the answers to the above questions add up in any way to anything which might be classified as a 'life lesson'?

Additionally: How much time do you estimate that the exceedingly patient, generous and knowledgeable members of this forum have donated FOC to your project?

 

[CyclingStone]

It's about time you went to the bike shop with your current fork for them to advise.

To be polite, you clearly don't know what you are doing, so save yourself trouble and more expense.

Exactly but I need it to be able to Zwift. Hmm yes.

The is just one thing, you guys told me to go to someone who is an expert on carbonparts, I am afraid most bikeparts aren't experts exactly, are there even any experts? I mean you really need a scan to judge carbon and any honest bikeshop will tell you this.

 

[CyclingStone]

How much money did you save by purchasing this bike rather than one from a reputable brand/dealer?
How much time have you spent in your attempts to sort it out (including the time you've spent on this forum)?
How much additional time and money will you expend before you have a working bicycle that you're happy with? (estimate)
What is your professional hourly rate when you work?

Do the answers to the above questions add up in any way to anything which might be classified as a 'life lesson'?

Additionally: How much time do you estimate that the exceedingly patient, generous and knowledgeable members of this forum have donated FOC to your project?

Well, it's not like I have money for a "real bike" and it works to Zwift with. I like to ride outsid but my main focus is to develop my motor.

 

[fossyant]

Your forks aren't going to snap on a turbo trainer for Zwift, so stick them back in, especially as you aren't interested into listening to our advice. The forks just look marked, not cracked.

 

[CyclingStone]

Your forks aren't going to snap on a turbo trainer for Zwift, so stick them back in, especially as you aren't interested into listening to our advice. The forks just look marked, not cracked.

I am thankful for your guys input in the thread. I have learnt that I did something wrong and I can do it better next time.

I am afraid my opinion with carbon is the same as always and after all, itäs a personal opinion how much risk you are ready to take when it come to carbon. I am not content with anything other than a scan. That's why I am contemplating using this heivey and expensive aluminiumsteerer I got sent. Seems really hard getting anotherfork in carbon and now I am not speaking about the chinese manufactur