Headset replacement help

[iluvmybike]

I figured that part out already: combo I like the beam rack because it comes off quickly to get in an out of trains, but I added some tubes of my own at bottom to carry the extra load. Looks dorky but works.

As long as the seat post is not a cf one it will work as long as you have heel clearance with panniers on. If it is cf post then don't use it - fit an alu one. Carbon fibre doesn't like being squeezed like that

 

[Spacer]

despite the load bearing "tube(s)" I would use an alloy seat post with that arrangement, as the clamp will be putting "unusual!" forces onto a carbon post which may or may not overstress it.

Having a 30 or 32mm tyre up front will certainly help with comfort and loading. Could you squeeze a 30mm on the rear or is it tight with a 28mm?

Thanks for the input. The seatpost ins't CF.I tried 32 and had to return them for 28's. If I change the front fork then I could get a gravel fork and have wider up front. I think I'll likely not chnage this bike too much though. Time to shop for a new gravel/touring bike- it's been over 20 years since I treated myself to a new bike...

 

[Spacer]

Don't replace the bearings unless they are rough/notchy/corroded. Nothing the OP has said suggests any of that.
I missed the reason for changing the fork - just asking?
Take care that the offset (some people refer to that as 'trail') on the new fork is the same as the current one.
The spec of the new fork should specify how wide a tyre you can run. Bear in mind there'll be some lateral flexing when honking up hills and that there may be a limitation on height underneath the brake calipers. With 112kg load (rider + bike + luggage) you'll have these tyres at decent pressure which will add a mm to the specc'ed dimensions (make/model of tyre dependent).
As for 35lbs of luggage on a beam rack + panniers: forget it.
A carbon seat post and a beam rack are poor bedfellows.

Thanks Ajax. my seatpost is aluminum.

 

[Spacer]

That's probably a good idea then. If a lot of abrasive dirt gets between the cartridges and cups it will also cause wear.

Thanks.

Report:
I ordered and received the bearings Cane Creek brand - and put them in. There was an original top compression split ring, which I re-used- since it seemed fine. I don't know if a seal ring is necessary with the new bearings- Some very very thin "L" profile rings were part of the loose bearing set-up (see photo above ), but I assume those don't go back in...

bottom, I may re-order a bottom race, but I dont have the tool to put it on, so I'll try with the existing race. I dont seem to have a compression split ring on the bottom with original set-up, and diagrams I found online don't show one..ideas?? Is the bottom race doing the job the compression ring does up top?

I greased it all as per an online tutorial.

Any observations appreciated.-

Peter

Now onto maintaining the 9 speed Ultegra brifter.. for another post.

 

[rogerzilla]

I've never seen a compression ring at the bottom. You only need one to centre the steerer.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

^^^^^ this. The split ring is to centre the steerer , not for compression. Pre load / compression is what you are doing with the top cap and only enough to remove any play. The steering should turn smoothly side to side. If it doesn’t you tightened the top cap too much.