Headset Question

[Chris1983]

I may be mistaken but it looks to me like the top cap isn't actually doing any compression duty in this setup, which the OP's description seems to confirm:



That can't be right, can it? I thought the stem/spacers were supposed to sit on top of the top cap, which in turn sits on the compression ring, as you describe. I'm sure it's safe to ride with the spacers sitting directly on the compression ring, but there's no protection against water ingress, which is what I would assume to be the main function of the top cap.

Correct, the top cap is serving no purpose at the minute. it is just floating around doing nothing. and yes on every other bike, including this one the spacers used to sit on top of the top cap. I'm not actually sure what they have managed to do, apart from fark it up.

 

[Chris1983]

I suppose by now you've heard that the job is considered as shocking and bad?

Should the bearing be sitting proud of the head tube?

I don't know and I don't think it is an easy answer. The bearing's height and intended protrusion (or not) is a function of its design. The top cap can be designed to cover a protruding bearing or a flat bearing. Mechanically, as long as the top cap does not bottom out before it starts to compress the bearing (via the conical compression ring around the steerer), it will be sound. However, for aesthetic reasons and water intrusion, it is usually pretty flush and incorporates a seal of sorts.

In other words, all must be correct for it to be as intended.

Luckily you have a Crane Creek headset there. These are good and pretty standard in that Crane Creek publishes dimensions and bearing codes for replacement parts. Go t o the Crane Creek website and see what your headset is supposed to look like and what bearing is supposed to be in there.

Crane Creek bearings have a numerical code.

The variables are:
1) Bearing ID and OD
2) Inner chamfer angle
3) Outer chamfer angle
4) Bearing height.

Thanks for the detailed reply, its appreciated. the Headset is actually an Acros Headset, or forgive me, is that the same as a Cane Creek under a different brand name?
The Bearing that has been fitted is a TH Industries/FSA bearing which may be designed to sit proud as you say, although my road bike has an FSA headset fitted and that sits flush with the frame.

Thanks

Chris

 

[Chris1983]

in fact, this shows the issue. they have just removed parts 1, 3 and 4 from this diagram. Part 2 is all that remains and its floating about as part 1 is not holding it in place. and i've not checked the lower race either.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Thanks for the detailed reply, its appreciated. the Headset is actually an Acros Headset, or forgive me, is that the same as a Cane Creek under a different brand name?
The Bearing that has been fitted is a TH Industries/FSA bearing which may be designed to sit proud as you say, although my road bike has an FSA headset fitted and that sits flush with the frame.

Thanks

Chris

Sorry, I saw a C and assumed it was Cane Creek.

TH Industries is also good to have because they laser etch a code on the side of the bearing which eliminates a bunch of measuring when looking for a replacement bearing. Unfortunately your old bearing is now gone.

 

[Chris1983]

Put this to bed now and got a full refund.

I asked for a new top cap and correct height bearing on Tuesday. So he offered a full refund. I guess the top cap would have sat flush with the bearing and thus still given a gap.

So back to square one and lesson learnt. I will only ever trust myself to work on my bikes.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Put this to bed now and got a full refund.

I asked for a new top cap and correct height bearing on Tuesday. So he offered a full refund. I guess the top cap would have sat flush with the bearing and thus still given a gap.

So back to square one and lesson learnt. I will only ever trust myself to work on my bikes.

If you still have the top cap and take it off, you'll notice that it is damaged. The ID should just fit over the steerer, not the spacers, as in your picture. There is a bit of the top cap missing.

 

[Chris1983]

If you still have the top cap and take it off, you'll notice that it is damaged. The ID should just fit over the steerer, not the spacers, as in your picture. There is a bit of the top cap missing.

Yeah there is a bit missing. Basically it is scrap now.

I did question this, apparently the lower seal was a bit perished so he removed it and through it away. The o ring was still fitted but "must have spilt and fallen out" and the top piece was fitted. So I guess that must have fallen off too.

I questioned him and said why didnt you just replace the damaged/worn parts and then charge me for them. He said he got the impression I wanted a cheap fix. It's a 3k bike FFS.

I never mentioned any thing about wanting cheap. I even told him to fit a whole new headset if it needed it.

Or call me to let me know.

He did admit that this was wrong and said sorry for that.

I'm also not happy with the rear hub bearings they fitted as they feel rough to me plus the axle only has a end cap onto radial bearings but after a few miles it developed 2 to 3mm of play and now if removed that the bearings feel rough. I suspect they weren't seated correctly and how I have forced them in and it's damaged the race. But he dissagrees on that and I did offer for him to check it but he refused.

He offered the refund, I never asked for one and I said the choice is his. Either fix my bike on Tuesday to the correct standard or give me a refund and he chose the refund.

So that's an end to it. Was all amicable and that's that. Live and learn.

But it does beg the question surely there must be a decent cyclear mechanic out there??? Somewhere????