Headset bearing cup replacement

[ChrisEyles]

I've always gone for the block of wood & hammer approach, but given the price of that little bearing press on ebay, I might grab one of those next time I need to do this.

My way of getting the races out is even more ghetto... I use a grip lock ring with a little section cut out, so it can be squeezed through the head tube, and then seated across most of the headset cup. A big thick dowel and a hammer then pops them out in no time. Not sure I'd want to do this on super expensive parts, but it always works a treat and hasn't damaged any alloy cups so far.

 

[RichardB]

Getting the cups out was quite easy - 10" mild steel drift and a medium hammer. Drift through head tube, tap gently in circles until it starts to move, and then continue con brio until it falls out. Invert and repeat.

Last part not so easy with a motorcycle headset!

 

[Blue Hills]

Have ordered the press tool - I couldn't make one up for that price (country hardware stores not the cheapest).

Thanks all.

Do you by chance mean the scouse thing I posted and which you liked?

If so I'd be interested in your feedback on it.

 

[RichardB]

Do you by chance mean the scouse thing I posted and which you liked?

If so I'd be interested in your feedback on it.

Yes, that's the one. Will report back in due course. However, I am having a few issues at the paint stage, so it may not be for a week or two!

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

Only bash stuff if the bike is a skipper.

Not at all. There's bashing and there's bashing. I'm just as happy to use a hammer and a block of wood on a 531 frame as I am on a worthless skip beater. A threaded rod with some washers & nuts is a more elegant method of inserting bearing cups, but so long as you aren't a ham-fisted gorilla, there's no reason why using the percussive method should cause any damage. It's all a question of whether you approach the job in a calm measured way or if you attack it like a bull in a china shop. A hammer doesn't have to be a demolition tool if used with some care.

 

[rogerzilla]

Getting the cups out was quite easy - 10" mild steel drift and a medium hammer. Drift through head tube, tap gently in circles until it starts to move, and then continue con brio until it falls out. Invert and repeat.

Last part not so easy with a motorcycle headset!

A proper "rocket tool" is wonderful to use, though. I think it's my favourite tool of all.

 

[RichardB]

For folk like me who don't have a threaded bar to hand, this looks quite handy and reasonably priced.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEADSET-PRESS-TOOL-WITH-65mm-NYLON-PROTECTION/114390507457

found it the other day when contemplating a job.

Bought this and used it today. Works as advertised, although I think a light hammer and a steady eye would probably be as good:

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/williams-lightweight-project.268007/post-6209901

Thanks again for the link.

 

[weareHKR]

A proper "rocket tool" is wonderful to use, though. I think it's my favourite tool of all.

lol... yeah there is something about that particular tool when its inserted & you hear that click.... I don't think I've ever had one fail to remove the cup first time, I made mine from on old seat post!

 

[Blue Hills]

Bought this and used it today. Works as advertised, although I think a light hammer and a steady eye would probably be as good:

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/williams-lightweight-project.268007/post-6209901

Thanks again for the link.

thanks for the feedback.
Will get one myself if I ever need to put a headset in.

edit - just read your bit on using it on that build and your take on it seems rather more negative than above.

 

[RichardB]

thanks for the feedback.
Will get one myself if I ever need to put a headset in.

edit - just read your bit on using it on that build and your take on it seems rather more negative than above.

Yes, perhaps. It certainly does what it says it will do and comes at a very modest cost, so I'm happy to have got it, but next time I will probably tap it in manually unless there is a good reason not to, such as alloy cups. Just as easy, and much quicker.

 

[carvelos]

Beat one cup in at a time with a rubber mallet, done it for 40 years, always worked for me,-- having said that, alloy frames or alloy cups are not allowed here so no comment on such new fangled gear.

 

[Deleted member 23692]

Those cheapo ebay all thread and nylon washer efforts are best avoided. As there is no means to centre the bearing/cups (and keep them centred) it's difficult to keep them straight when pushing them in. I know, I made the mistake of buying one and ended up reverting to old trusted lump of wood method.

I've just had this arrive...

Beautifully made in alloy with stainless steel threaded shaft and bottom nut... complete with a very smooth thrust bearing

Price? £12.69 delivered (in 10 days) from chine via AliExpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001287895772.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.50e22323HNUo6f

 

[Gunk]

For folk like me who don't have a threaded bar to hand, this looks quite handy and reasonably priced.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEADSET-PRESS-TOOL-WITH-65mm-NYLON-PROTECTION/114390507457

found it the other day when contemplating a job.

I bought my threaded bar from Wicks, I’m pretty sure that a pack of two with bolts was under a tenner, the problem with the dedicated presses is that they are too short for some large steel frames, I’ve restored some bikes up to 64cms.

 

[RichardB]

Those cheapo ebay all thread and nylon washer efforts are best avoided. As there is no means to centre the bearing/cups (and keep them centred) it's difficult to keep them straight when pushing them in. I know, I made the mistake of buying one and ended up reverting to old trusted lump of wood method.

I've just had this arrive...

View attachment 560712

Beautifully made in alloy with stainless steel threaded shaft and bottom nut... complete with a very smooth thrust bearing

Price? £12.69 delivered (in 10 days) from chine via AliExpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001287895772.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.50e22323HNUo6f

That's three times the price of the one I got, but I bet it works three times as well. Worth spending the money if you are going to be using it more than occasionally.

 

[Blue Hills]

Those cheapo ebay all thread and nylon washer efforts are best avoided. As there is no means to centre the bearing/cups (and keep them centred) it's difficult to keep them straight when pushing them in. I know, I made the mistake of buying one and ended up reverting to old trusted lump of wood method.

I've just had this arrive...

View attachment 560712

Beautifully made in alloy with stainless steel threaded shaft and bottom nut... complete with a very smooth thrust bearing

Price? £12.69 delivered (in 10 days) from chine via AliExpress - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001287895772.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.50e22323HNUo6f

good find.
thanks for the recommendation.
Were you worried when buying it?
I would only usually buy the very simplest cheapest tools from china.