Head set

[captainhastings]

I have a Claud Butler Chinook and the last few weeks I notice the bars pulling to one side occasionally I thought it might be a balance thing dure to only having one pannier on but last week it suddenly got much worse and stiffer all together but only when I am on it. If I dismount and tip the bike from side to side the front wheel swings about ok. I have been having a bit of success maintenance wise and changed a couple of gear cables and brakes etc so I am wondering about taking the head set apart.
Is there much to it other than taking the allen key bolt out the top then it all drops out ? is there any thing to watch for I will have a look on you tube shortly for some guides as well.
Once apart any thing in particular to look for I was just planning to clean thins and lubricate and reassemble for starters

 

[captainhastings]

After reading up I might leave it to the experts

 

[mrandmrspoves]

It's really not too difficult. Undo the top allen key bolt and remove the top cap, and then the two bolts on the side of the stem. At this point the handlebars will be free to lift off along with the stem and any spacer rings. Now you can easily remove the wedge washer and the components that make up the top bearing. Lay them out carefully in the order and orientation that you remove them. Once removed, you can push the steerer tube out from the frame as there will be nothing retaining it. You will need to do this to access and service the bottom bearings. Clean the bearings and check them and the races for pitting. Replace if damaged (if the races are damaged it can be quite hard to remove the bottom one from the steerer tube - there are special tools, but many make do with careful use of a screwdriver or old chisel and hammer) If they appear to be ok, lube them well with grease and reinstall in reverse order that you removed them. Once all the parts are replaced. Gently tighten the top allen bolt until when you apply the front brake and push the bike forwards and backwards there is no wobble of the forks. Now make sure the handlebars are lined up straight with the front wheel and then tighten the two bolts on the side of the stem. Don't overtighten the bolts as it is easy to strip tje threads. It is worth learning to do this because it should be a regular maintenance job - depending on how much you ride your bike amd in what conditions. I check and service mine annually

 

[young Ed]

if you have a cheap cra**y BSO then have a camera handy and a note pad and pen/pencil and then simply take apart the headset of the cheap bike and take drawing's and photos and notes etc before then going and doing the nice CB
Cheers Ed

 

[captainhastings]

Ok thanks better learn been riding it to work through the winter in this wet so it is bound to suffer. Got down to this so far

and things have now stopped sliding off so is that a circlip I need to lever off then remove the black collar ? Thought best to check before I start using any force and break some thing
From what I can see reading on the net that is the top bearing but it is not about to start sliding off or the forks down at the moment

 

[MikeW-71]

No, if it's stuck at that point and won't just drop through the headtube, you'll require a rubber mallet or put a block of wood on the end of the steerer and give it some whacks until it goes through. I had to do that on a kids MTB that was stuck in the same way.

Once it's out, it can all be cleaned up and it will go back together without any force being required.

 

[captainhastings]

Brilliant thanks for the help every one it is appreciated be easier next time. I now have top and bottom out. Luckily I stuck a band and a bag over the bottom before I tapped it out or would have lost half me balls. The balls look ok no pitting just dry and bit rusty. Going to town later so will pop into halfords for some grease at least and may even see if they have new bearings all together

 

[mrandmrspoves]

No, if it's stuck at that point and won't just drop through the headtube, you'll need a rubber mallet or put a block of wood on the end of the steerer and give it some whacks until it goes through. I had to do that on a kids MTB that was stuck in the same way.

Once it's out, it can all be cleaned up and it will go back together without any force being required.

No! - prise out the white wedge collar and then remove the other components of the top bearing before sliding the forks out. You shouldn't normally need to use a mallet or much force to remove the forks. I know it's too late for this time........ having seen your picture of the bearings I would replace them. Free bearings are more fiddly to fit - but don't tend to disintegrate in the same way that your caged bearings have. The secret that you have now discovered is regular servicing and plenty of grease.

 

[raleighnut]

Brilliant thanks for the help every one it is appreciated be easier next time. I now have top and bottom out. Luckily I stuck a band and a bag over the bottom before I tapped it out or would have lost half me balls. The balls look ok no pitting just dry and bit rusty. Going to town later so will pop into halfords for some grease at least and may even see if they have new bearings all together

I'd replace that race if I were you, a pair should be less than a tenner and what can happen is that the steel carrier can wear to a knife edge and lock the forks.

 

[captainhastings]

well I got it back together with new bearings but it just feels a bit too stiff tried reassembling a few times and slackened head set right off but seems bit too stiff. The bars certainly dont fall side to side when I tilt the bike.
Looks like I better take it too the shop after all

 

[mrandmrspoves]

well I got it back together with new bearings but it just feels a bit too stiff tried reassembling a few times and slackened head set right off but seems bit too stiff. The bars certainly dont fall side to side when I tilt the bike.
Looks like I better take it too the shop after all

Just before you do....
Slacken the top allen bolt off then slacken the 2 stem bolts. Now gently tighten the top bolt just to the point where the forks don't wobble when the front brake is applied. Now tighten the two stem bolts.
It must be done exactly as above because the top cap controls the degree of play - but once this is adjusted the 2 stem bolts lock the fork stearer at that point so if you just slacken the top bolt while the stem bolts are tight nothing will happen.

 

[captainhastings]

Just before you do....
Slacken the top allen bolt off then slacken the 2 stem bolts. Now gently tighten the top bolt just to the point where the forks don't wobble when the front brake is applied. Now tighten the two stem bolts.
It must be done exactly as above because the top cap controls the degree of play - but once this is adjusted the 2 stem bolts lock the fork stearer at that point so if you just slacken the top bolt while the stem bolts are tight nothing will happen.

Thanks for the reply I did try that this afternoon but no luck. I have cocked some thing up some how. Not to worry looking forward to find out where I went wrong. It is all learning

 

[young Ed]

Thanks for the reply I did try that this afternoon but no luck. I have cocked some thing up some how. Not to worry looking forward to find out where I went wrong. It is all learning

ask LBS if you can watch them deal with your bike?
Cheers Ed

 

[MikeW-71]

Did you re-fit the bearing cages? If so, have you got one of them upside down? My own MTB has caged bearings and it wouldn't go back together right until I flipped one of the caged bearings over. You don't actually need the cages, they just make things quicker for factory assembly.

No! - prise out the white wedge collar and then remove the other components of the top bearing before sliding the forks out.

That steerer was rusted as badly as the kids MTB one I did. Nothing was budging that cone spacer without breaking it, it had to be knocked through. If the OP services this area more regularly, it will all come apart very easily next time.

 

[raleighnut]

Thanks for the reply I did try that this afternoon but no luck. I have cocked some thing up some how. Not to worry looking forward to find out where I went wrong. It is all learning

I think MikeW might be right the races fit alternately i.e one up one down and not both the same way round. I'd just check that before admitting defeat, good luck anyhoo,