That's sound. Effectively doubling your battery life I'd assume.
And I did think that a flashing one would stand out more which is why I asked I guess. I'll be needing some lights at least for these winter months and if flashing on it's own is confirmed, and fine, then that's what I'll be doing.
Perhaps come to my next question. I'd be looking for lights that don't have a wire running to a battery and can be taken off one bike and stuck on another quite quickly (saves getting up an extra few minutes in the morning I guess haha - all these savings add up to an extra snooze button press) - and clearly if flashing on its own is fine, I'd be looking for a light that the manufacturer has perhaps given thought to this when making them and made a light that does save a lot of battery power when in flashing mode?
Flash mode does significantly extend the battery life. I'd recommend, for front lights, getting a set that doesn't go dark between flashes and also having at least one set which is on constantly, because a single flashing light is very difficult to place by anyone you come across on the road and drivers won't be able to quickly tell how far away you are.
How much are you thinking of spending?
My own set up cost a fair amount but it easily moves between bikes, gives a shed load of power and it has never been found wanting.
Front lights I have an
Exposure Maxx-D, although I have the older 3-lens version. This gives "
Burn time: High (3 hrs) Medium (10 hrs) Low (24 hrs)" and flash setting lasts for ever. It gives enough light that I only need low or medium settings on the road, but the extra of full-power is great when I leave the tarmac. Also, as it has 3 (or, now, 4) bulbs, it appears as a much larger light so it makes me look more like a motorbike than a cyclist. I also have an
Exposure Flash on the front as my "flasher" unit, which is on pretty much constantly when I'm on the road, day or night. I have a
Joystick on a head band and I can't over-emphasise how much difference having a good head torch makes to riding on and off the road.
At the rear, I have a pair of Smart 1/2 watts mentioned earlier and an
Exposure Flare, again as a flasher which is on whenever I'm on the roads. Finally, I have a
RedEye Micro on the back of the Joystick, visible from behind at head height.
Some comparison photos, all taken at fixed exposure, against a CatEye HL135
Cateye HL135 on its own
Cateye HL135 bottom left, against Exposure Joystick on low bottom right. The smallest Exposure on its lowest setting has a broader, brighter beam.
Cateye HL135 bottom left, against Exposure Joystick on high, the Cateye has all-but disappeared
Cateye HL135 bottom left, against Exposure MaxxD on low, similar to the Joystick on high
Cateye HL135 bottom left, against Exposure MaxxD on low, yes, the Cateye is still turned on.
If I was to recommend a "budget" set up, I'd still go with the Joystick / RedEye Micro as a head mounted light and get lower powered "be seen" lights on the bike.