fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Should be fine. I left my cups in the frame, and pulled the bearings out with the slide hammer !!
GXP threaded cup bearings
- Thread starter Lookrider
- Start date
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Regards to spacers ....please
The Bb had 2 spacers on drive side 2x2.5mm
The NdS had a 2mm larger diameter spacer on with 3 notches in ?
Now as the GPX document shows my firex crankset 43,32,22 on a 68m bb should only have 2 on a 68mm or 1 on a 68mm E
To add to my confusion I did think I read or YouTube video somewhere that there should be an extra spacer on DS ( total 2 ) if you have E type clamp on FD
This however seems to contradict the documents above which say an E type FD should only have 1 spacer ...
Should I alternatively start afresh and go by the chain line of 51mm and add spacers to get that figure
The Bb had 2 spacers on drive side 2x2.5mm
The NdS had a 2mm larger diameter spacer on with 3 notches in ?
Now as the GPX document shows my firex crankset 43,32,22 on a 68m bb should only have 2 on a 68mm or 1 on a 68mm E
To add to my confusion I did think I read or YouTube video somewhere that there should be an extra spacer on DS ( total 2 ) if you have E type clamp on FD
This however seems to contradict the documents above which say an E type FD should only have 1 spacer ...
Should I alternatively start afresh and go by the chain line of 51mm and add spacers to get that figure
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fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
I'd put the same spacers back on that were originally there. If you get it wrong, you'll soon know - the crank's won't spin, or won't pre-load.
I'm on 73mm do don't have any spacers.
I'm on 73mm do don't have any spacers.
And back to the documents...
This advises to press the bearings into the cups then screw in the cups
I guess if there bought as a whole BB then the bearings would be pre pressed into the cups as well ( but not sure )
I do have a press but it does seem that pressing bearings into cups first is not the general advised way ....is there any valid readon for this way
This advises to press the bearings into the cups then screw in the cups
I guess if there bought as a whole BB then the bearings would be pre pressed into the cups as well ( but not sure )
I do have a press but it does seem that pressing bearings into cups first is not the general advised way ....is there any valid readon for this way
I've now replaced the bearings
The old DS bearings had as fossyant said a plastic top hot acting as spacer
The internal diameter of the bearing was 24mm INCLUDING the top hat sleeve
Tbe new DS bearing had an internal diameter of 24mm so to get the use of a spacer via the top hat I had to cut away the top hat sleeve which left the flange part acting as the spacer
Maybe I did this incorrect ?
My concern now is
Will the cranks be butting up against the spacer/bb cups and not spinning freely ??
In the original with top hat inside the bearing and snug with the spindle this would mean the whole top hat would spin with the bearing smoothly in co heshion with the axle
I'm not to sure this would be the case now
It seems to spin free enough with no obvious friction ...the cranks do stop spinning after maybe 5 revolution on there own
The old DS bearings had as fossyant said a plastic top hot acting as spacer
The internal diameter of the bearing was 24mm INCLUDING the top hat sleeve
Tbe new DS bearing had an internal diameter of 24mm so to get the use of a spacer via the top hat I had to cut away the top hat sleeve which left the flange part acting as the spacer
Maybe I did this incorrect ?
My concern now is
Will the cranks be butting up against the spacer/bb cups and not spinning freely ??
In the original with top hat inside the bearing and snug with the spindle this would mean the whole top hat would spin with the bearing smoothly in co heshion with the axle
I'm not to sure this would be the case now
It seems to spin free enough with no obvious friction ...the cranks do stop spinning after maybe 5 revolution on there own
