Guide for when to replace worn bike components?

[Glover Fan]

Hi all,

Earlier on whilst riding I realised I had no idea when I should think about replacing worn out components, from tyres, through to cranksets and deraillieurs. What about brake and gear cables? When should wheels be trued?

I thought it'd be handy if in the most basic sense mileage and time factors were thought about, say 5000 miles for an average road tyre? Or tale-tell signs of wear? Baldness etc.

The plan could be to have a sticky thread that new members like myself can refer too.

This could completely fall on its head and not go anywhere, but feel free to share your knowledge for all sorts of components.

Jon.

 

[MontyVeda]

I replace tyres when they're worn out, wheels get trued when they out of true, I replace brake cables when they snap, I replace bottom bracket when it starts creaking and squeaking and hubs and headset get a repack of grease when they have some play in them.

 

[gbb]

Tyres get replaced if they're split to the degree where glass could easily enter, or when they're visibly worn or start puncturing frequently.
Your transmission can be checked regularly and the chain's the easiest indicator for chainring and cassette wear. Get yourself a chain wear indicator (or do it with a ruler if you prefer..i like the tool, quick and easy) and regularly check the chain. I replace my chains at .75%, if you do that, the chainrings and cassette will probably be ok for two or three chains.
If you want to check yer chainrings and cassette, just closely inspect the teeth for a sharks tooth appearance, or elongated dishing in the bottom of the teeth.
Cables ? i like to squirt some WD40 into the top of the outer sheath where possible and let it run down into the outer. If the inner cable looked corroded where it exits the outer, maybe a little closer inspection may be in order. If i get that, i'll remove the inner, clean and lube with some light oil then refit...maybe once a year.

Regular checks (perhaps weekly) can include inspecting the tyres for embedded debris, remove before it gets through the casing.
I'll also remove brake blocks and check for embedded debris, more so in winter...that debris will scour your rims.

 

[byegad]

Tyres when they start to get punctures OR look bad with cracked side walls, splits in running surface or the anti-puncture belt is visible on the tread. As I don't like fixing tubes by the side of the road I get rid early rather than later.
Chain when the Park Tools go/no go tool shows it is beyond 0.75%.
*Chain rings when they look hooked or start skipping with a new chain. Replace with better quality ones when you do replace them!
*Cassette the same. (Remember Shimano rings and cassettes have all kinds of shaped teeth as new.)
*Changing the chain as soon as it gets to 0.75% means these will outlast several chains.
Cables when they fray, replace as soon as there is a broken strand!
Brake pads when they are worn to the point that the brakes will not adjust to work well. Replace earlier rather than later if in doubt!!
Sealed race bearings when they sound rough or have slop in them.
Cone bearings when they run rough when correctly adjusted and greased.
Wheels when the rim wear marker is gone if you have rim brakes, or when the rim shows any sign of cracks around the nipple holes.

Every job on a bike is something anyone can learn to do. You need the right tools and the confidence to do it! At the moment I'd only take it in to a shop for headsets, you need a press to get the new race in, or wheel building. I'm aiming to take a course on wheel building so I can make my own, buying and storing a press for the headsets puts me off that one, at least for now.

 

[Cubist]

.

Every job on a bike is something anyone can learn to do. You need the right tools and the confidence to do it! At the moment I'd only take it in to a shop for headsets, you need a press piece of wood and a hammer to get the new race in, or wheel building. I'm aiming to take a course on wheel building so I can make my own, buying and storing a press for the headsets puts me off that one, at least for now.

FTFY!

Did a headset at the weekend. LBS reassured me that as long as it goes in square you really don't need a press for a headset. The worst moment for me was chiselling the crown race off... now that took a bit of bottle!

 

[Glover Fan]

Thanks, many helpful posts so far!!!

I personally feel put out to spend money in a LBS for something that with a bit of reading and patience I could do myself! I'll buy parts from a LBS no problem, but i'd rather spend more money on the components rather than the labour. So I need to get a good bicycle maintenance book and some decent tools and I should be sorted.

Thanks for the advice so far.

 

[mickle]

Chains before 75%, brake blocks before they hit the wear indicator, rims before they wear below 75%, cables before they get too draggy.

Everything else I replace after it dies/ shows signs of imminent failure. My rear hub race is shot on one of my bikes so it wont adjust up, the nipples are seized too so there's no truing it either. I postponed its replacement, wanting to eke as much life out of it as poss, I'm just waiting for it to give up the ghost - I've been waiting 12 months now.....

Many components wont harm you when they fail, they just slowly grind to a halt or get increasingly annoying. Toasted bearings in BB, hubs, pedals and headset for example are unlikely to do you any harm. Within reason you can run them into the ground right up until they're too knacked to function.

Brake cables, chain, bars.. they can kill you if they fail so keep an eye on them.