Grinding chrome rims

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raleighnut

Legendary Member
What does this say about the people who designed my 1960s Raleigh Roadster, which had chromed steel rims with rod brakes? Just how long did they think the chrome plating would last before the brakes wore through to the steel? Were they supremely confident in the thickness of the chrome or just cynically selling garbage bikes and thus actually responsible for the demise of the British bike industry?
Dunno but it'll probably go on for another 50 years before you need to start worrying as long as it is being ridden (they only tend to die if left unloved, maybe they do have a soul):biggrin:
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
What does this say about the people who designed my 1960s Raleigh Roadster, which had chromed steel rims with rod brakes? Just how long did they think the chrome plating would last before the brakes wore through to the steel? Were they supremely confident in the thickness of the chrome or just cynically selling garbage bikes and thus actually responsible for the demise of the British bike industry?

I have well used bikes from the 30s which have probably the original wheels and chrome plating still intact. Same goes for the paintwork on the frame and chrome on the cranks, bars etc. By the end of the 30s, the better 26" wheeled sports roadsters had evolved into bikes that were deceptively lively and responsive despite their weight (which was for durability purposes not cheapness - a bike was for life then).

I also have bikes from the 80s with chrome and paint falling off in chunks.

Quality within British industry nosedived after the war in most cases as they worked out ways of building things cheaper. In the case of Raleigh, they had effectively bought up most of the competition and innovation stopped and quality went downhill as they felt they had no competitors.
 
I have well used bikes from the 30s which have probably the original wheels and chrome plating still intact. Same goes for the paintwork on the frame and chrome on the cranks, bars etc. By the end of the 30s, the better 26" wheeled sports roadsters had evolved into bikes that were deceptively lively and responsive despite their weight (which was for durability purposes not cheapness - a bike was for life then).

I also have bikes from the 80s with chrome and paint falling off in chunks.

Quality within British industry nosedived after the war in most cases as they worked out ways of building things cheaper. In the case of Raleigh, they had effectively bought up most of the competition and innovation stopped and quality went downhill as they felt they had no competitors.
The problem with chrome plating was it didn't really suit the lightweight thin walled tubing that became common on road bikes. Application onto bare steel is quite an aggressive process requiring the roughing up of already wafer thin metal. To do it properly by plating with nickel or copper underneath adds both weight and expense, so most manufacturers did not bother. Bits of kit from earlier eras got the full treatment which is why it lasted well.

The same applied in the motor industry, when cars were manufactured and priced so the great unwashed could afford them corners were cut and the first thing to go was the quality of the chrome on the bumpers which often looked a rusty mess within a few winter months.
 
OP
OP
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MattDB

Über Member
Where do I start.... :rolleyes:

If you use grinding paste on your chrome rims you will take off the chrome and will end up with a rusty patch that when braking will 'grab', potentially causing your front wheel to slide out from under you if braking on a wet corner. You are also unlikely to remove enough material to rectify the anomaly and if you do succeed you will end up with a weakened rim wall that will be a danger and could fail unexpectedly.

You need to either live with it or it may be possible to 'flatten' the lump by carefully tapping it down with a hammer.

I'm surprised that a minor flaw in the rims braking surface is causing "Immense juddering". I my experience it takes substantial defects to cause a problem that will seriously affect the bikes functioning. Is there another fault that is perhaps magnifying the problem? is it a front or rear wheel? Have you checked the headset to make sure there is not play in the bearing that are allowing the forks to bounce? Are the brakes securely fastened to the frame?

Without seeing the bike it is hard to think what else it could be but maybe the rim is not the main problem.

Just wondered if you had any insight - I have tightened the bearings a little which I think has reduced the juddering slightly. However the wheel is now catching the brake pad very slightly. Ideally I'd loosen them off a tiny bit but they are self adjusting. Is this just going to be striking a very fine balance. I wasn't having either of these problems until I removed the wheel to take it in to my LBS so I'm at a bit of a loss. bike shops don't seem to be too interested in doing anything with retro bikes around here.
 
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