Granny Gears

[BSRU]

I have a triple on my road bike which was very useful in the beginning, but as I have become fitter it has become less so, probably in reality I could manage with a standard double.

 

[Rob3rt]

I don't get out of the big ring on my compact roadie, but then I do live in Suffolk and we don't have anything remotely hilly round here. If I were tackling mountain terrains day in day out, I may have a different view about gearing.

N+1 (on order) has a standard double 53-39 and 11-26, so I might actually have to start thinking about making use of both chain rings.

I use the inner ring on my double a lot. With my old compact, I didn't ever use the small ring except in the hills, this resulted in the big ring wearing out with the inner ring looking almost brand new. Now I have a double, I would say I spend my time probably 50:50 between both rings. The 39t is just a lot more useable.

 

[Andrew_Culture]

'Ring' *snigger*

 

[mattobrien]

I use the inner ring on my double a lot. With my old compact, I didn't ever use the small ring except in the hills, this resulted in the big ring wearing out with the inner ring looking almost brand new. Now I have a double, I would say I spend my time probably 50:50 between both rings.

That's kind of what I am hoping for - with the status quo as it is the inner ring is a bit neglected. Seems a bit pointless to have one and not use it, hence the move to a double. Not sure I will be spinning out on a 53-11, but always nice to have the option if I do ever find a worthy hill...

Also hoping that not having quite such a low gear for climbing (worst gradients are currently tackled with 50-27) I will be forced to make much better use of the inner ring and possibly increase fitness.

I will need to slightly reprogram my brain to remember that there are gears available from the left shifter / remember to actually use it.

 

[mattobrien]

'Ring' *snigger*

A bit early for innuendo, unless you have been up all night watching Terry Thomas films.

 

[Biker Joe]

I've got 53/38 on the front and 12/27, 9 speed cassette.
I can climb most hills around here with that. These days, anything over 6% I get off and walk a bit( Age is catching up with me).Thankfully there's not much around here that steep.
I did consider changing to a triple but the cost was too much. IF I had the money, I would get a bike with a compact triple. That would suit me but I can't see that happening. ( A bit of self pity there)

 

[Venod]

When I was younger 52/42 front & 13/24, 6 speed rear on the road bike would get me anywhere, the steep bits were out of the saddle knee busters, now a lot older & a lot of mountain biking under my belt I have become a twiddler, the road bike know has 50/34 front 13/30, 10 speed rear, the low gears are needed at the end of a long day when I hit the steep bits.

Nowadays I find the low gear a comfort to have.

 

[Chris S]

The granny gear on my MTB was useless. By the time I realized that I needed to use it I was going too slow to change down.

 

[Black Lightning]

thanks for all your comments however as a beginner i dont have a clue when you start talking 53/38 on the front and 12/27 rear. it means nothing to me. if i understand correctly getting a granny ring means changing the gear shifters so is more expensive. now other mention changing gears on the rear which i am having trouble understanding. how to i know what i have got and what i need, all i do know is that i have 8 gear rings on the rear.

 

[The Brewer]

Its triple or walk on some of the hills around here, I hate walking

 

[avalon]

So now it's as clear as mud to you.
If you don't know any other cyclists and don't have a decent bike shop near by, maybe someone from here who doesn't live too far away could help you out with the modifications. I'd be happy to but I'm probably not very close.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

thanks for all your comments however as a beginner i dont have a clue when you start talking 53/38 on the front and 12/27 rear. it means nothing to me. if i understand correctly getting a granny ring means changing the gear shifters so is more expensive. now other mention changing gears on the rear which i am having trouble understanding. how to i know what i have got and what i need, all i do know is that i have 8 gear rings on the rear.

It sounds very technical but it's not that bad really. The numbers quoted refer to the number of teeth on the gears.

The way that gears work is that if you select a small chainring on the front and a large cog on the rear you get an easy gear and vice versa; large front to small rear = a harder gear.

The cassettes are available with a choice of cog sizes so, for example, if you changed from one which ranges from 11 to 25 teeth at the rear to one that is 11 to 28 teeth you'll get an easier gear for climbing. This is a cheap option as usually only the cassette and chain need changing.

Do note though that on a road bike, 28 or 30 teeth is often the biggest you can go on the rear without changing the derailleur mechanism too. (The members on here can advise if you let us know what derailleur you have).

I hope this makes sense.

 

[Nigelnaturist]

thanks for all your comments however as a beginner i dont have a clue when you start talking 53/38 on the front and 12/27 rear. it means nothing to me. if i understand correctly getting a granny ring means changing the gear shifters so is more expensive. now other mention changing gears on the rear which i am having trouble understanding. how to i know what i have got and what i need, all i do know is that i have 8 gear rings on the rear.

Basically the less teeth on the front and more on the back the lower the gear, and likewise the more teeth on the front and less on the back the higher the gear, for instance a 30th front and 28th rear is lower than a 30th front and 26th rear, and a 50th front and rear 11 is higher than 50th front and 13th rear. The number of combinations is bewildering really.

 

[Black Lightning]

It sounds very technical but it's not that bad really. The numbers quoted refer to the number of teeth on the gears.

The way that gears work is that if you select a small chainring on the front and a large cog on the rear you get an easy gear and vice versa; large front to small rear = a harder gear.

The cassettes are available with a choice of cog sizes so, for example, if you changed from one which ranges from 11 to 25 teeth at the rear to one that is 11 to 28 teeth you'll get an easier gear for climbing. This is a cheap option as usually only the cassette and chain need changing.

Do note though that on a road bike, 28 or 30 teeth is often the biggest you can go on the rear without changing the derailleur mechanism too. (The members on here can advise if you let us know what derailleur you have).

I hope this makes sense.

 

[Black Lightning]

Ricshaw Phil,

thanks for the info, below is all I can find relating to the gears. if i was to change the rear cassette to make it better for hills what are the options?

• Front Mech: Shimano FD-A050
• Gear Shifters: Shimano ST-2300
• Rear Mech: Shimano RD-2300
• Chainset: Shimano FCA050 52/39 / Prowheel

Cassette: 12-26T

Thanks for all your comments