Going tubeless? Helprequired.

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nappadang

Über Member
Location
Gateshead
I've just replaced my rear MTB tyre with a tubeless ready (Bontrager XR4) tyre. I'm running it with a tube at the moment but would be interested in doing away with the tube. What, exactly would I need to do/buy? How much is it likely to cost? Is it worth the effort?
I'd really appreciate some help with the above questions or if a similar thread exists, could some kind person supply the link?
Thanks in advance.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
A tubeless ready tyre needs a compatible rim, sealed against air leaks at the spoke holes, a tubeless valve and sealant to ensure an airtight seal at the bead and sidewalls.
Your rim might already be tubeless ready, the manufacturer will let you know. If it is, you need to remove the current rim tape and replace it with Stans or Superstar tape. There are online videos showing you how. Then you need to fit a tubeless valve. Again, Superstar Components or Stans.
Next, get the tyre on the rim and wet it all with washing up liquid in some warm water. Remove the top half of the valve to get max airflow and use a compressor or track pump to get as much air in as quick as you can. Ifsuccessfull you'll hear the tyre seat with a couple of loud bangs.
Once its seated let the air out and inject 50cl of tubeless latex sealant in via the valve stem. Screw in the top half of the valve and pump the tyre upto 40psi.
You now need to get the sealant distributed round the rim. Holding the wheel horizontal shake it vigorously with an action that looks like you're panning for gold. Flip over and repeat.
Look carefully at the bead and you may see latex bubbling as air escapes. Thiscis normal, and you'll see the bubbling stop as thehe latex cures and creates the seal. Leave for an hour or so and check that all leaks have cured. Check air pressure and reduce to riding pressures.

If your rim is not compatible you need a rimstrip kit. These have a rubber srip with valve incorporated, and are pretty expensive.
 

screenman

Squire
We used the ghetto method in the early day, now I use the Stans kit, I think we have 5 bikes on tubeless in the family only one runs on specific rims.

One thing it does do is show you how good tyre sealant works, when you first inflate the tyre.
 
OP
OP
nappadang

nappadang

Über Member
Location
Gateshead
A tubeless ready tyre needs a compatible rim, sealed against air leaks at the spoke holes, a tubeless valve and sealant to ensure an airtight seal at the bead and sidewalls.
Your rim might already be tubeless ready, the manufacturer will let you know. If it is, you need to remove the current rim tape and replace it with Stans or Superstar tape. There are online videos showing you how. Then you need to fit a tubeless valve. Again, Superstar Components or Stans.
Next, get the tyre on the rim and wet it all with washing up liquid in some warm water. Remove the top half of the valve to get max airflow and use a compressor or track pump to get as much air in as quick as you can. Ifsuccessfull you'll hear the tyre seat with a couple of loud bangs.
Once its seated let the air out and inject 50cl of tubeless latex sealant in via the valve stem. Screw in the top half of the valve and pump the tyre upto 40psi.
You now need to get the sealant distributed round the rim. Holding the wheel horizontal shake it vigorously with an action that looks like you're panning for gold. Flip over and repeat.
Look carefully at the bead and you may see latex bubbling as air escapes. Thiscis normal, and you'll see the bubbling stop as thehe latex cures and creates the seal. Leave for an hour or so and check that all leaks have cured. Check air pressure and reduce to riding pressures.

If your rim is not compatible you need a rimstrip kit. These have a rubber srip with valve incorporated, and are pretty expensive.
That is an unbelievably in depth and excellent guide.
Thanks for taking the time to do that, I really do appreciate it.
 

Stephen brown

Well-Known Member
Just do it, it's the single best bike upgrade I have done.

1800 off road miles until I got a puncture which left a 10mm split in my tyre even then they still held enough air for me to get back to the car albeit with Stan's finest bubbling out and spraying everywhere
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
I checked the rear tyre on my full sus bike and found 13 self-sealed holes. That's a years worth of trailside repairs saved.
 

Mo1959

Legendary Member
I checked the rear tyre on my full sus bike and found 13 self-sealed holes. That's a years worth of trailside repairs saved.
That sounds brilliant. Daft question but do you still carry a spare tube at all or just a pump? Also, does the tyre come off again easily enough when it has worn out and you want to replace it?
 
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