roubaixtuesday
self serving virtue signaller
In the long run I would look to become comfortable/happy at speeds of 30mph
Not down Mow Cop, it's a 1:4!!
In the long run I would look to become comfortable/happy at speeds of 30mph
Just watched the videos. Looks very simple. Assume Allen key for 105. Quick question they all mention the cable tension for the brakes. I have hydraulic disc so not an issue I guess? Will it affect the gears at all?
'Hooking my nadgers over the rear of the saddle' doesn't apply in my case, but still, good to know...
I do want to use the drops and comfy on them on the flats and gentler down hills, bike feels comfy overall, even down in the drops!When descending any steep hill use the drops as others have said, but also get your weight well back even to the extent of hanging off the rear of the saddle (I hook my nadgers over the rear of the saddle).
Well done on getting up both Mow Cop and The Cloud, but strictly speaking there's only one way up Mow Cop
A steep hill to a new starter cyclist is the same as a 10k is for a new starter runner.I totally agree there's only one way up, I've run it and done running hill reps a lot up there. Not quite ready to attack it face on yet uphill, and probably even longer for downhill!! One day maybe, but not yet
Whilst I do agree with you I started my running career with MK Marathon, 5 months after getting off couch as a 30 a day smoker at the age of 32/33.... I've run 16 marathons or ultras, and only 1 10k (think done more marathons than any other distance!)A steep hill to a new starter cyclist is the same as a 10k is for a new starter runner.
You wouldn't begin your running career by attempting a 10k on your first day. You'd start with a few gentle jogs, then a lap of the local park and so on until after six months, you'd run your first 10k.
Same with cycling up hills. It might only be 500 yards of cycling to get to the top of the hill, but the top of the hill should be your goal in six months time. For the time being, make your initial goal the first 20 yards and walk the rest. Then each day, see if you can go a bit further.
I've said it before on here, but a year ago, there were hills I thought I'd never be able to cycle up which I now do daily.
As for hurtling downhill, I've had some adrenalin rushes on fast downhill sections but I've never come to grief. When you start to exceed 30mph, you develop a heightened sense of awareness which helps to keep you out of trouble.
Hydraulic brakes 'self-adjust' so once you have set the right lever position just give them a quick squeeze or two and they will be fineJust watched the videos. Looks very simple. Assume Allen key for 105. Quick question they all mention the cable tension for the brakes. I have hydraulic disc so not an issue I guess? Will it affect the gears at all?
While I have been known to easily reach speeds of +40 mph on the right "fun" hill, I've also been known to descend at ~10 mph if the hill is silly steep, twisty and narrow.
Luck ...........
Only been down it once a couple of years ago,mid summer and it was 6 c and dense fog at the topThey don't have the same stopping power as discs. Personally, I can lift the back wheel even on a fully panniered up road bike with rim brakes.
But discs have more stopping power for less 'squeeze' - it's why I'm concerned that the OP is struggling as they shouldn't be getting pain/fatigue in their hands breaking on Mow Cop, for example (I've ridden it a few times).
The 'biting point' on rim brakes is easier to adjust near to the bars - if the reach is adjusted on road hydraulic disc levers, does that also move the biting point closer to the bars ? I only have MTB disc levers to play with ? They are easy to adjust.
The gravity well that is the descent off Cat and Fiddle to Lamalode is something else, because if you don't scrub off all your speed before the sharp right hand gravel strewn bend at the bottom you will crash - now that's a sore finger braking descent. You easily hit 40mph without trying !