OP
OP
craig kennedy
I am a geek
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent
yeah ok no clue what you said, so googling now
gear adjust/re-index
- Thread starter craig kennedy
- Start date
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T.M.H.N.E.T
Rainbows aren't just for world champions
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Probably better if you don't
winjim
Smash the cistern
So will any front mech with a trim function. All the yaw function does is prevent chain rub, surely?
T.M.H.N.E.T
Rainbows aren't just for world champions
- Location
- Northern Ireland
They do, but it's not a nice sound is it? I've yet to see a non YAW front mech that allows 22 noise free,usable gears, di2 excluded.
Eh? Surely that just stops the chain rubbing?
winjim
Smash the cistern
Yes, but my point is that the reason cross chaining is advised against has nothing to do with chain rub on the front mech.
T.M.H.N.E.T
Rainbows aren't just for world champions
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Do elaborate
blimpnoddle
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing all this somewhat off topic banter is doing is causing Craig more confusion. Quite simply Craig, if in doubt, don't cross chain, especially the big chainring (the outside big'un near the pedals) and big cog (the one on the inside at the rear), and keep an eye on chain wear with that tool I linked.
winjim
Smash the cistern
Cross chaining is reckoned to weaken the chain and increase wear by subjecting it to excessive lateral forces. It also puts stress on the rear mech by pulling the guide cage sideways.
winjim
Smash the cistern
Do you not think it important that he understands why?
T.M.H.N.E.T
Rainbows aren't just for world champions
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Oh only reckoned
Pretty much every gear used will put stress on a chain laterally so do you ride using only one or two cogs on your cassette?
winjim
Smash the cistern
Yes, reckoned. I chose my words carefully since I am not an engineer. But seriously, that is the reason.Oh only reckoned
Can I get a witness?
Footnote:
Normally I do avoid the extreme two or three sprockets at each end of the cassette but today, by way of experiment, I cross chained on the way home. No rub on the mech, but the chain sounded, for want of a better word, cross. (9sp Sora, 34-50, 11-30)
Last edited:
RichardB
Slightly retro
- Location
- West Wales
I imagine that would have been a Sturmey-Archer (or similar) hub gear and a beefy 1/8" chain. The hub gear was famous for being long-lasting and bulletproof (although if you had done some minimal maintenance it might have lasted you longer!) and the chains lasted forever too - partly because they were wide and heavy, and partly because they didn't have to do much other than roll in the straight line round two cogs.For years I had a bike that would be classified now as a hybrid, but with only 3 gears, using the old style lever.
I never looked after it, and eventually it got stuck in 3rd gear so I removed the gearing parts, leaving the rest of it.
I never oiled it, never did anything and used the bike for long (15 miles) and short hops daily for about 8 years until it eventually fell appart.
Never did I have to replace the chain or rear cassette, nor did the chain ever come off?
Having said that, 200 miles seems a very short mileage to wreck a chain and cassette. Most people seem to see mileages in the thousands before replacement is needed. Regular cleaning and lubrication seem to be the key - was the bike neglected, left outside in the rain etc?
OP
OP
craig kennedy
I am a geek
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent
to be honest I used it for the first time last year, my first cycle run was with a local club and was a killer 32 miles with one stop, my ass hurt like hell, legs were dead.
I put it in the shed after that, to re-consider, then this year decided I needed to get fit and got it back out.
It did take me a little while to figure out the gearing, so I now use all the gears on the rear cassette with the front part on the lower arm, but if I am cruising either level or down hill Ill put it in 4th of so then switch to the larger front cog but I do hunt a little looking for the gear that's both comfortable for me and allows me to try and maintain the speed I might be doing (14-16 was the ave mph on level ground) so, to summarize, I realize just by looking at the chain that large front cog and large rear cog is a no no, the angles tell me that so I do avoid that, but I am changing gear often, and on hills I find it less comfortable to have faster turning pedals with no speed than having it 2 or 3 gears up turning slower but moving, so I guess that's applying a lot more force on things than should be?
I have in my time broken a mountain bike by having it in a real difficult gear to pedal up hill.
Anyway, I got a new rear cassette for £16 and chain for the same from Evans, more important, and also a little disappointing was that I paid for a gear service, but the guy told me I had done an acceptable job of the indexing, and they wee all working, only the cable needed a minor adjustment, so next time Ill do it myself.
I also got a chain cleaner last week which seemed to work well (I actually got 2 by mistake)
I have not been able to go out all this week so Sunday (the London to Brighton run) is going to be fun, but I am confident I will be ok.
I put it in the shed after that, to re-consider, then this year decided I needed to get fit and got it back out.
It did take me a little while to figure out the gearing, so I now use all the gears on the rear cassette with the front part on the lower arm, but if I am cruising either level or down hill Ill put it in 4th of so then switch to the larger front cog but I do hunt a little looking for the gear that's both comfortable for me and allows me to try and maintain the speed I might be doing (14-16 was the ave mph on level ground) so, to summarize, I realize just by looking at the chain that large front cog and large rear cog is a no no, the angles tell me that so I do avoid that, but I am changing gear often, and on hills I find it less comfortable to have faster turning pedals with no speed than having it 2 or 3 gears up turning slower but moving, so I guess that's applying a lot more force on things than should be?
I have in my time broken a mountain bike by having it in a real difficult gear to pedal up hill.
Anyway, I got a new rear cassette for £16 and chain for the same from Evans, more important, and also a little disappointing was that I paid for a gear service, but the guy told me I had done an acceptable job of the indexing, and they wee all working, only the cable needed a minor adjustment, so next time Ill do it myself.
I also got a chain cleaner last week which seemed to work well (I actually got 2 by mistake)
I have not been able to go out all this week so Sunday (the London to Brighton run) is going to be fun, but I am confident I will be ok.
OP
OP
craig kennedy
I am a geek
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent
that old bike of mine back then lived outside in all seasons without any cover, I remember the chain being rusty as hell, but a bit of a cycle and it seemed to be fine, stiff for a short run then no longer stiff, and I went everywhere in it, lots of hills (Scottish Borders is very hilly), I went off road on it, on road, jumps, some real high ones as well, wheelies, bunny hops, I did everything you do on a BMX on it, but it was what I think would now be a hybrid, I even saved up for ages to get knobbly tyres, assuming they would last longer which they did not. Great fun
