FSA Vero compact chain set - Right Hand Crank Arm Needed

[si_c]

Thanks si-c
Thanks Cycleops.
You've confirmed my worst fears ... and it's clearly even-worse that I thought it would be.
I wish my partner's son had come to me when the pedal first worked loose and the situation could be saved.
[ I wish ... I wish ... ]
All my life - I've never begrudged the cost of tools ...
Use them once and they've usually paid for themselves.
However - Now that I'm in my mid-70s, the time for serious tool-buying may be coming to a close.
I never expect to do this job again !
If I do have to go down the BB replacement route -
1. Will the existing retaining nuts knock round with a hammer and punch ?
2. Can the old BB be removed with threaded bars + washers + a couple of nuts and a good spanner ?
3. Or - Will it knock out ... And if so - Which way ?

I still have the option of buying compatible crank arms or sending the existing crank arm to Highpath Engineering.
They may be able to engineer a suitable insert - However bad the thread looks.
I've seen more desperate repairs completed successfully ... although everything has a price.
Thanks for your thoughts - So far.
John

Thanks very much.
If needed, I'll be more that happy to send you a suitable consideration - Both for you costs and for your help.
Cheers.
John

It really does look as though it had been ridden for quite some distance, and it must have felt awful to ride on, certainly I would have had to stop to fix it after a few hundred yards.

The answer to all three of your questions is sadly a no, you might be able to tap it out with a screwdriver, however the chances are that it's either a aluminium on both sides or one side will be a plastic sleeve, in either case you're likely to deform the material before you get enough torque. They usually have some threadlock on the threads so a tool is generally a good idea.

The bike is regular BSA threaded bottom bracket, which means that the left side is as normal, with tightening being done clockwise and the right hand side is left hand threaded so it is tightened anti-clockwise, predicated on using a tool of course. You can hand tighten threaded bottom brackets and it'll probably work fine, but it's surprising how much further you can tighten it even with minimal effort using the tool.

I use this (Park Tool BBT-29) for the Gossamer crankset and one of these for the square taper tool. The square taper tool is not important, but the Park Tool one is, nobody else really does a cheap version, FSA do their own tools, but they are much more expensive.

 

[Ajax Bay]

FSA - Vero ... 5-hole ... BCD 110mm ... 175mm.

Right. Late to this thread but I'd advocate leaving the perfectly good square taper (ST) BB in there (107mm spindle).
ST is a better BB than those others.
And buy this for £24!!! from uber-reputable Spa Cycles (as @si_c suggested earlier).
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p4840/STRONGLIGHT-Impact-Series-1-Double-Cranks
[Cranks are supplied without chainrings/bolts.]
OP has the 110 BCD rings, and the chainline would move 4mm right (no big deal).

Options	175mm Silver 110mm BCD
Description	Impact Series 1 cranks. (Series 1 cranks were recessed on the rear of the crank arm) For 9/16" pedal axles Recommended bottom bracket axle length (68mm shell/BSA thread): 103mm

 

[Johnsco]

Thanks Ajax Bay.
I can't see any reason why the Stronglight double cranks from Spa shouldn't be a straight replacement.
I assume you get the left-side crank as well, so as to give a matching pair.
I'll just do a bit of investigation in the morning and report back.
Many Thanks to you all.
I've learned a lot this evening !
The knowledge on this Forum is amazing.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Yes, it's a crankset they're selling, it looks like. I'd press the buy button (?£5 P&P) without delay.
Crank length = tick
Square taper = tick
BCD = tick
Spindle length = OK: inner ring move 2mm away from chainstay and same movement of chain line (centre-to-centre spacing of sprockets is 4.5 to 5.0mm)

 

[fossyant]

You should only need a little adjustment on the front mech as the chain line will move in a little. Hopefully you'll have clearance on the chainstay.

I'm not a fan of FSA cranksets - many of them use strange chainring arrangements, especially as a OEM fitting to a new bike.

 

[Ajax Bay]

"move *out"

 

[Johnsco]

I've just measured the spindle length and it is 103mm.
I'm going straight ahead to order the Stronglight cranks from Spa.
Thanks to you all.
J.

 

[Johnsco]

Good news .... Spa Cycles delivered the Stronglight cranks in good time.
Easy to fit - Almost a direct replacement for the damaged FSA-Vero set.
The chain-line moved 0.9mm to the left.
I needed to make the slightest adjustment to the front mech ... It's surprisingly tight.
As I refitted the chain, I was surprised to find it rather worn.
It didn't look like it had seen any lube in a very long time.
As I rotated the cranks, there was a bit of jumping from three chain-links that were seized.
These were freed and the chain lubed.
I'm going to recommend a replacement chain.
Maybe - Another job for me.
Thanks Spa Cycles ... and Special Thanks to Cycle Chat members for your expertise.
J.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Glad the crankset fitted the bill. Hope you used threadlock on the chainring bolts.
I think these bikes are 9 speed. It may be the bike has had little use (on this cassette) and when you put a new chain on it will be fine. But if it's had more than (say) 2000km, then the new chain may skate (gentle uphill, seated, max powaah). Then a new cassette (?11-32t) will be required.
Do not throw away the old chain till you are 'sure'.
I wouldn't be surprised if a good soaking and oiling and wiping (and repeat) of the chain, and then a couple of hours riding will allow you to decide the chain is fine. The proof is 'on the road' not (just) in the garage.

 

[Johnsco]

The proof is 'on the road' not (just) in the garage.

That will be the real test.
My partner's son collected the bike today while I was out at a funeral.
He appears pleased with the repair.
I guess he'll soon give it some "welly" and that will prove the chain .... for better or worse.