FSA crank removal
- Thread starter Dave G
- Start date
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Gerry Attrick
Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
yello said:
Only if your letter order is correct
Dave G said:Er yeah......perhaps I should engage my type before I brain?:?:
@Yenrod:
I remove the left hand cup to remove the CC? How does one do this? I cannot see for the life of me.......fecking thing.
I had ultegra CC on my old bike, so much easier to get on and off!
Part of a new design.
Lighter; you'll see when you remove it !
rustychisel
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Adelaide, Australia
Oi! Leave the cups (bearing shells) alone!! If it's SLK etc team issue FSA, then the L/H crank comes off, then the R/H crank (including chainrings and big spindle) withdraws through the bearings to the right of the bike. It's often now referred to as a 2 piece, because that's how it comes apart.
The axle mounting bolt on the LH crank is 8mm Allen keyed. If it's an earlier model it will be made of alloy, cheese, or plasticine. It will most likely bugger up when you try and unscrew it, because it's using the torque of that cheesy bolt to try and pull the crank off it's spindle. Your LBS should be able to help or have a steel bolt on hand as replacement - FSA replaced the alloy bolts on their production versions because they're sh!t.
That centre bolts is snugged against a self-extracting collar - get down and have a look, you'll see a collar around the bolt. It has a couple of holes punched into it, for doing up, undoing. It's best, perhaps, to remove this collar first, then get the 8mm onto the bolt itself, then use a conventional crank extractor (screw in type) to remove the crank.
Use a block of wood to lightly tap the axle end back through the bottom bracket until you can slip the whole assembly out the drive side. Keep a close eye on number and order of thin thrust washers etc.
Like I said, be careful with those cheese bolts. If it all goes wrong, any competent bike shop will know about this and be able to use a reverse bit to back out the cheesy item.
The axle mounting bolt on the LH crank is 8mm Allen keyed. If it's an earlier model it will be made of alloy, cheese, or plasticine. It will most likely bugger up when you try and unscrew it, because it's using the torque of that cheesy bolt to try and pull the crank off it's spindle. Your LBS should be able to help or have a steel bolt on hand as replacement - FSA replaced the alloy bolts on their production versions because they're sh!t.
That centre bolts is snugged against a self-extracting collar - get down and have a look, you'll see a collar around the bolt. It has a couple of holes punched into it, for doing up, undoing. It's best, perhaps, to remove this collar first, then get the 8mm onto the bolt itself, then use a conventional crank extractor (screw in type) to remove the crank.
Use a block of wood to lightly tap the axle end back through the bottom bracket until you can slip the whole assembly out the drive side. Keep a close eye on number and order of thin thrust washers etc.
Like I said, be careful with those cheese bolts. If it all goes wrong, any competent bike shop will know about this and be able to use a reverse bit to back out the cheesy item.
OP
OP
Dave G
New Member
OK - it gets more complex.
I do not have self-extracting bolts. I have these.....
http://road.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=105&pid=172
On removal, I am left with nothing else that I can see is holding the crank arm on. So, used crank pull and ended up having to tighten the pull with a couple of blows with a hammer.....*snap*, crank pull arm shears off.
Result.....back to square one. Neither life, nor home mechanics should be this hard!
I do not have self-extracting bolts. I have these.....
http://road.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=105&pid=172
On removal, I am left with nothing else that I can see is holding the crank arm on. So, used crank pull and ended up having to tighten the pull with a couple of blows with a hammer.....*snap*, crank pull arm shears off.
Result.....back to square one. Neither life, nor home mechanics should be this hard!
rustychisel
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Adelaide, Australia
okay, link goes to steel bolts... but I can't visualise what comes next in the explanation. However the bit about the hammer sounds ominous.
Keith Oates
Janner
- Location
- Penarth, Wales
Actually the whole set up doesn't seem so good, I thought FSA was top gear but I must be wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OP
OP
Dave G
New Member
I have clarity. Excuse my previous explanations, they were typed with oil covered fingers and a high amount of frustration.
The difference is that I have an ISIS chainset. The 8mm bolts are not self extracting, so need to be removed and the crank arm reoved using a park tool CCP-4 crank pull. The crank pull I was using was a CCP-2 and was evidently the wrong tool for the job.
The difference is that I have an ISIS chainset. The 8mm bolts are not self extracting, so need to be removed and the crank arm reoved using a park tool CCP-4 crank pull. The crank pull I was using was a CCP-2 and was evidently the wrong tool for the job.
Tim Bennet.
Entirely Average Member
- Location
- S of Kendal
It's good that you're working out how to do it, because with a ISIS bottom bracket you going to be repeating this job often enough.
Although there are some very good (SKS?) ISIS BB out there now, they cost real money and you have to work out how much it worth's investing in the ISIS set up as it was essentially a flawed design.
Although there are some very good (SKS?) ISIS BB out there now, they cost real money and you have to work out how much it worth's investing in the ISIS set up as it was essentially a flawed design.
