Front Stem

[Cyclist33]

Sorry I was trying to sound like I knew what I was talking about. I think what I meant was stem clamp?

We all do that, lol. It needs to be pretty firm but there is over tightening. The principle is that the top cap locks the steerer in place while you get the stem straight (ie so the handlebars are straight). Then it's the stem that locks the steerer in place once you've got it straight. Then the top cap can be loosened a little so that steering is free, as hovr said.

 

[STEPHAN DAVIS]

If it wasn't pitch black and peeing down I would check it right now! I've got a good feeling about getting it sorted now! I will update how I get on tomorrow.

 

[Motozulu]

Hope this helps .....Must admit these you tube videos are very good for Newb's like me.

http://www.ehow.com/video_4975588_adjust-bikes-headset.html

 

[STEPHAN DAVIS]

Felt a little better this morning but would still say it was a little wobbly. Tried the old no-hands trick and almost landed on my face. Had a look where the stem meets the fork and looks ok - maybe a very small gap towards the back of the stem. I think its probably worth a trip to my LBS or i might just pop down the common after school and learn how to do no-hands properly!

 

[Widge]

Fettling a stem is pretty simples IME........use the top bolt/stem cap to snug it down and then tighten the stem bolts when you are sure that there isn't excess play in the steerer/fork/bars. Loosen the cap bolt SLIGHTLY if you wish afterwards.....some do? The caps aren't designed to take a huge amount of permanent torque.

Your inability to ride 'hands-off' may have more to do with the stem LENGTH and things like the fork rake etc. It takes a bit of practise to be able to do that 'Tour-de-France' victory salute on a twitchy lightweight road bike? I can read a book while riding my MTB ...but find it much harder to take both hands off my new road-bike. And seldom feel the need.

 

[STEPHAN DAVIS]

Thats comforting to know. The only reason i've become slightly obsessed with the 'hands-off' approach is that i read an article in this months Cycle Plus about it being a sign of your stem needing adjusting. I rode home tonight after adjusting the stem again at lunchtime and i'm pretty happy with the set-up now. I think i may have been afraid of not tightening the stem bolt up enough before.

 

[Widge]

Yup...just so it's clear-The stem bolts (the ones on the side of the stem itself) need to be good and tight There are often printed torque wrench settings around these bolts on the stem itself..You need to be especially mindful of these if you are using carbon componentry. The CAP bolt is a means of snugging down the stem prior to fixing it tight with the stem bolts.
THESE are what are holding the front of your bike together!!-not just the the cap.
The cap bolt, having served it's purpose does not then NEED to be as tight as the stem bolts. Hope this is clear!!

The old test was hold the front wheel between your knees. If you could move your handle bars against the resistance then you stem (or quill etc) wasn't tight enough for 'safety'! Rather a crude test back in the day, but one we all knew as schoolboys. A mordern lightweight alloy wheel would probably buckle if you did that now....but we all had heavy chromium plated steel wheels in the '60's and 70's!

 

[STEPHAN DAVIS]

Perfect - thanks. Is it advisable to give the front forks a bit of a grease ever now and again? From what i gather GIant bikes have an 'integrated' headsets?

 

[Widge]

I am not sure of your terminology here.............................

Which part of the 'front forks' are you referring to? You would not strip and grease an integrate or 'aHeadset' unless you were convinced they needed it-(binding-grinding etc) or unless they were well worn, sloppy and knackered. In that case then you would replace either loose bearings in grease or a cartridge raced bearing...or, more simply, the entire assembly (special tools advised).
If you are not sure then ask your lbs before dismantling these!

Or are you talking about the legs and internals of a suspension fork?

My advise would be NOT to mess with anything to do with front wheels, forks and steering unless you know what you are doing and what everything does.

It could very easily end in tears.

(or worse!)

HTH

w

 

[STEPHAN DAVIS]

Sorry I'm showing my ignorance again but if you don't ask...

I haven't got any strange binding-grinding noises so sounds like I should leave well alone!

 

[Widge]

Good Man!
If you suspect you have loosened something you shouldn't - or the bike still feels wrong......show it to a bike mechanic-type person before riding it please!
You are (slightly) more likely to survive the back end of your bike falling apart than the front!! But neither is recommended

 

[HovR]

The old test was hold the front wheel between your knees. If you could move your handle bars against the resistance then you stem (or quill etc) wasn't tight enough for 'safety'! Rather a crude test back in the day, but one we all knew as schoolboys. A mordern lightweight alloy wheel would probably buckle if you did that now....but we all had heavy chromium plated steel wheels in the '60's and 70's!

This test still works well for me!

Then again I'm using alloy wheels from the late 70's with a high spoke count - Not sure how a modern super-lightweight thing would stand up!

 

[Cyclist33]

This test still works well for me!

Then again I'm using alloy wheels from the late 70's with a high spoke count - Not sure how a modern super-lightweight thing would stand up!

I want a picture of your bike (wheels).

Stu

 

[HovR]

I want a picture of your bike (wheels).

Stu

You do? That's worrying - I better start cleaning them!

I'll try and get around to taking some decent pictures tomorrow when it's bright outside.

 

[Cyclist33]

I would love to have a classic racer! Or any old banger to love up.

My dad's got a nameless old "hybrid" (that's what they'd call it nowadays) in his shed he's never used, dunno where he got it from, keeps promising it but never delivers.