Front Hubs, rebuildable? Difficult to do?

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w00hoo_kent

One of the 64K
The front wheel on the Sirrus (originally from the Synapse, Maddox 3.0 which apparently has a Formula DC20 hub and was new in March this year) has started making a noise like a tombola full of nuts (or a washing machine with pebbles in it, or a rotating thing with some metal things bouncing about in it).

I know nothing about them at all and have never fiddled with the hubs. Currently the wheel doesn't seem to be doing anything wrong aside from making a constant and hideous noise (you can hear it if you spin the front wheel with no load, it is constant if you are riding under load) which aside from being embarrassing is, I presume going to do something worse than make noise at some point.

I took the dust caps off and smeared some grease under them, plus greased the axle last night. Naturally this did sweet FA, but I'm using it as an example of how little I know. I saw that there were flats under the dust covers which suggested something could be unscrewed, but didn't do it in case lots of bits of metal fell out everywhere (plus it was late already.)

I presume there's a youtube video somewhere showing someone stripping apart exactly the hub I own, but for those that have done this before, is there anything serviceable in there? How difficult is it to do? How much damage can I do by 'just giving it a go'? How long before something catastrophic happens and what is that likely to be?

It sounds like something has come loose inside the hub and is rattling around, the inside of the hub must be bumpy as anything, because it never settles and gets quiet.

My intention is to get some custom wheels built for the Sirrus at some point anyway, but I was hoping to hold it off until there was a '15' in the year if possible.

All advice gratefully accepted.
 

Rohloff_Brompton_Rider

Formerly just_fixed
 
OP
OP
w00hoo_kent

w00hoo_kent

One of the 64K
OK, I haven't subscribed to watch the video, but in what way is a Cone wrench better than a spanner? looking for one on wiggle just shows something that looks like a poorly made spanner.

How good a bike shop does it need to be to sell replacement bearings?
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
OK, I haven't subscribed to watch the video, but in what way is a Cone wrench better than a spanner? looking for one on wiggle just shows something that looks like a poorly made spanner.

How good a bike shop does it need to be to sell replacement bearings?
The flat on the cone is very thin hence the thin spanner to hold it still whilst the outer nut is tightened or loosened, very little force should be applied with this spanner (same set up as a threaded headset).
Any half decent bike shop should sell the bearings but you may need new cones as well if they're pitted/graunched away.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
None of them seem to have the ancient Shimano bearings I need to do for a friend, though ... :sad:

Do you have the hub's model code? Usually it is HB-xxx, if not whatever it is on the label and a photo might help. I presume you are having difficulties finding the right cones rather than bearings.

If the cup is pitted there is not much point fixing the hub up, unless the cup is at the back and integral to the freehub.
 

Scoosh

Velocouchiste
Moderator
Location
Edinburgh
The bearings (only about 6 of them) are held in a bearing race, which comes out in one piece but I don't have the special tool required to gain access to the them under the freewheel.

It's an ancient Rayleigh (really) bike, made in Korea - must be circa 1890 or whenever the first MTBs appeared in the UK !

Thanks for your assistance but he's just using it to see if he can commute to work on it along Edinburgh's cycleways ...
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
Sure some freewheels are tricky to remove, or need unusual remover.

Once the freewheel is off it shouldn't be too difficult. Some hubs have dustcap press-fit to the hub, unlike the dustcap integral to the cone like the one here. It is best to replace caged bearings with (more) loose ones of the same size.
 
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