Front brake removal - road bike

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Quick query - trying to install my new mudguards and they need the front brake block removing (or loosening)... I have managed this quite happily at the rear, but the front one seems to be 'stuck'....

I have unscrewed the (missing technical term here sorry) long thin bolt type thing with the internal thread from the back of the forks, but the brake block is still very definitely not budging. When I did this with the rear block it effectively 'fell out' at this point. The front is not co-operating. What am I missing please?

(Carbon forks so don't really want to do the hit it hard option...)

 

[smokeysmoo]

Might just need a little persuading, try gripping the caliper and giving it a wiggle, it not then give it a tap through from the rear.

If you've got a socket screwdriver they're ideal as the end goes over the thread, if not then a flat screwdriver will do.

Softly, softly, catchy monkey, it shouldn't need more than a tap.

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

thanks - can't even get the brake block to rotate at all when I use my hands at the front!
just tried the tapping it - nothing. sounds solid for want of a better word.

 

[Rob3rt]

Put something in the back of the fork to butt up against the bolt, then tap it with something, should soon budge. Don't be too precious, the forks are made of carbon, not butter!

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Put something in the back of the fork to butt up against the bolt, then tap it with something, should soon budge. Don't be too precious, the forks are made of carbon, not butter!

I've tried a hammer - OK not very hard, but still sounds totally solid

 

[potsy]

Stop being so soft and give it a proper whack, and if it all goes wrong it was Rob's fault

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Ok - daft idea time - if the brake blocks are in solid and can't be budged... which is what is looking rather likely right now... (feels like I am hitting a radiator with a hammer, and there is no movement or sign of persuasion that they are ever going to come out) is there any reason why the bracket (raceblade longs) which is a U shape to go over said bolt has to be between the brake block and the forks? could I not put them over the exposed thread inside the forks instead? (I have 3 lengths of bracket to play with so can make the distances correct...

I'll upload a photo in a mo...

 

[Tim Hall]

Ok - daft idea time - if the brake blocks are in solid and can't be budged... which is what is looking rather likely right now... (feels like I am hitting a radiator with a hammer, and there is no movement or sign of persuasion that they are ever going to come out) is there any reason why the bracket (raceblade longs) which is a U shape to go over said bolt has to be between the brake block and the forks? could I not put them over the exposed thread inside the forks instead? (I have 3 lengths of bracket to play with so can make the distances correct...

I'll upload a photo in a mo...

I don't think that will work. The U shape bit has to be clamped, rather than just straddle the bolt. In the normal position, it gets clamped between the brake assembly and the fork (or a washer or what ever), keeping it straight. If it isn't clamped it'll wander from side to side, causing the guard to rub on the tyre.

PS, brake block is the rubber bit that grips the wheel rim. I think you mean the brake caliper.

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

@Tim Hall fair point. (and yes - I do mean the calliper - sorry I'm dyslexic and was up late last night (my sister collapsed at work and needed baling out of A&E) so am mixing up words left right and centre today... just don't ask me which is left or right and we will be fine!

I take it that there is no other option for brake callipers to be 'mounted' into forks? and that front & rear should really be the same. this is an entry level bike so nothing fancy... (hitting is still not working - I keep trying)

 

[potsy]

Good spray of WD and a bit of time to penetrate might help

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Good spray of WD and a bit of time to penetrate might help

well it fixed my sti lever problems
now to work out how to suspend the bike so that the WD40 can get to where it is needed... which is a suspend from the rear wheel... hummm glad my OH is not currently home!

 

[raleighnut]

@Tim Hall fair point. (and yes - I do mean the calliper - sorry I'm dyslexic and was up late last night (my sister collapsed at work and needed baling out of A&E) so am mixing up words left right and centre today... just don't ask me which is left or right and we will be fine!

I take it that there is no other option for brake callipers to be 'mounted' into forks? and that front & rear should really be the same. this is an entry level bike so nothing fancy... (hitting is still not working - I keep trying)

Put the long hex key thingy back on and leave it a couple of threads loose then give that a tap just a sharp tap mind don't go giving it a "run up big whack" bit of lube may help but the bolt will be stuck in the steerer tube.

 

[Tim Hall]

well it fixed my sti lever problems
now to work out how to suspend the bike so that the WD40 can get to where it is needed... which is a suspend from the rear wheel... hummm glad my OH is not currently home!

Plus Gas (or other pentrating oil) is likely to be better than WD40, but if you only have WD40, use that. I wouldn't worry too much about suspending the bike. Squirt the stuff in and it'll wiggle its way in (capillary attraction, innit).

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Humm
not working in the slightest...
in fact the only thing it has done is brought paint off the carbon forks and that's not through me hitting them either. think these may be well and truly stuck and I might have to leave them be... paint has come off 20mm away from the hole at the back... about 3mm circular spot...

 

[HovR]

The front brake bolt/steerer tube is a favourite spot for corrosion as the tire is able to fling plenty of water up there when you're on wet roads. I've worked on some bikes (not mine, I hasten to add!) which were a right pig to get the front brake off.

Just keep applying WD40/GT85 or similar and applying firm but non-destructive force. It should shift eventually as there's nothing else holding it in! Be sure you're not getting any lubricants on your brake pads, and when you reassemble, apply grease to the brake bolt threads and steerer interface generously!