Freewheel removal

[mjr]

I removed a two prong sun tour freewheel earlier this month. Two tips:

1. The cyclo tool for this has two parts. One fits in the notches and the other pokes through it and screws into the cone/locknut thread to stop the tool slipping. Don't do it up so tight the tool can't loosen, but do it up tight enough the tool can't possibly slip.

2. Slot a very long pipe over the spanner handle to increase the leverage.

One tip for the new freewheel: deny corrosion its air by greasing the bloody threads!

 

[woodbutcher]

I removed a two prong sun tour freewheel earlier this month. Two tips:

1. The cyclo tool for this has two parts. One fits in the notches and the other pokes through it and screws into the cone/locknut thread to stop the tool slipping. Don't do it up so tight the tool can't loosen, but do it up tight enough the tool can't possibly slip.

2. Slot a very long pipe over the spanner handle to increase the leverage.

One tip for the new freewheel: deny corrosion its air by greasing the bloody threads!

Will do both long pipe and grease....makes perfect sense

 

[Gravity Aided]

Or a breaking bar, a really long socket driver thing that you can use sockets on that is more useful than can be imagined for freeing bottom brackets and freewheels. A bit more secure than a pipe.

 

[bigjim]

I had this problem with a suntour freewheel. In the end went to lbs. He had a selection of removers fastened to the back of a door. Placed freewheel into tool on door and twisted it off. Most have took about 10 secs and did not want to charge me. Sadly closed down recently and new fancy LBS does not know what a suntour tool is.

 

[mjr]

Or a breaking bar, a really long socket driver thing that you can use sockets on that is more useful than can be imagined for freeing bottom brackets and freewheels. A bit more secure than a pipe.

I've a long socket driver thing which I use to get Shimano freewheels off but you can't clamp it on, which is more important when it only grips with two short prongs rather than twelve deep splines.

 

[mmmmartin]

My similar problem was solved by adding heat, a technique I used with success to free a stuck pedal. Heat came from a small camping stove held so the flame played only on the area in question. Try heating then allowing it to cool, then heating again. The difference in expansion of the various bits of metal might break the bond between them.

An added advantage of using heat on the cassette was it burned off all the old oil and grease that had accumulated there.

 

[Pumpman]

My similar problem was solved by adding heat, a technique I used with success to free a stuck pedal. Heat came from a small camping stove held so the flame played only on the area in question. Try heating then allowing it to cool, then heating again. The difference in expansion of the various bits of metal might break the bond between them.

This may not work as well as for the pedal. I believe the expansion of the alloy hub will be greater than that of the steel freewheel - so it may have the opposite effect of tightening the grip.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

This may not work as well as for the pedal. I believe the expansion of the alloy hub will be greater than that of the steel freewheel - so it may have the opposite effect of tightening the grip.

I think Pumpman was suggesting that repeated heating and cooling would do some magic, not the trick of heating something so that it expands and then either releases a trapped part or, allows a part to enter and then become trapped.

But you are right, aluminium has double the coefficient of linear thermal expansion of steel. Both are alloys though. Steel is an iron alloy and aluminium is, well, an aluminium alloy. We tend to just say steel and aluminium though.

 

[Gravity Aided]

I've a long socket driver thing which I use to get Shimano freewheels off but you can't clamp it on, which is more important when it only grips with two short prongs rather than twelve deep splines.

Quite right. With Suntour I use a long handled wrench and I also use the quick-release skewer to hold the Suntour remover in place.

 

[woodbutcher]

My similar problem was solved by adding heat, a technique I used with success to free a stuck pedal. Heat came from a small camping stove held so the flame played only on the area in question. Try heating then allowing it to cool, then heating again. The difference in expansion of the various bits of metal might break the bond between them.

An added advantage of using heat on the cassette was it burned off all the old oil and grease that had accumulated there.

I did wonder about applying heat somehow but am a bit wary of collateral damage to the hub .

 

[woodbutcher]

Quite right. With Suntour I use a long handled wrench and I also use the quick-release skewer to hold the Suntour remover in place.

l am going for this approach first, it being the least invasive. If that doesn't do the trick l will try combining it with heat and if no joy l will try a small explosive device

 

[Yellow Saddle]

l am going for this approach first, it being the least invasive. If that doesn't do the trick l will try combining it with heat and if no joy l will try a small explosive device

May I suggest you wait a few weeks before searching online for a small explosive device?

 

[mjr]

l am going for this approach first, it being the least invasive. If that doesn't do the trick l will try combining it with heat and if no joy l will try a small explosive device

I find combining the long pipe with swearing that would make a vicar's ears fall off also helps!

 

[woodbutcher]

I really don't know what l would do without the combined wisdom of Cycle Chatters, thanks to all you folks l have a result.
A combination of Suntour removal tool, pipe wrench and cheater bar did the trick
Here she is with new bar tape, brake hoods, cables and the new freewheel fitted, ready to roll !

 

[Sharky]

Your garage looks a bit empty - think you need an N+1