Forgive me father, for I have sinned.

[BrumJim]

I've neglected nearly all maintainance on my mountain bike, save for some grease and some brake fettling.

I'd been aware of my crunchy drivetrain for a while, but decided the best course of action was to get some in ear earphones and turn the volume up

So, putting the power down today when I got bogged in mud, resulted in a snapped chain.

Obviously, I know I need a new chain. But how are the cassette and chain ring looking? to me they look ok, but would like another opionion.

Cheers

p.s. remember I took these photos straight after the ride, so wet hands and wet phone have led to rubbish photos.

View attachment 568561 View attachment 568562 View attachment 568563

Call that worn? These are worn:

 

[Ajax Bay]

New chain, put on bike, ride, despite what people think cycling is not rocket science.
You may have to put in 0.001% extra effort, the new chain may fail 300 metres earlier if you don't put new cogs on

Cycling IS (like) rocket science: easy, btw. It's rocket engineering which is really difficult.
But this is not about 'extra effort': new chain on a cassette will not require greater or less effort that old chain on the current cassette or new chain on new cassette, not is chain failure ("300m earlier") more or less likely*. Likelihood of skating is, though, greater with a new chain.
Options: 1) new chain; 2) current chain (rejoined); 3) another used chain (@Skippy)
All are valid. In each case a test ride will discover whether (any of the sprockets of) the cassette is too worn to cope with the chain driving it. But it is prudent, when going for option (1), to procure a new cassette at the same time. Even if (1) is successful, you're going to need that new cassette (?1000 miles) later (continuing to ride bike assumed).

* New chain failure more likely if it's a Shimano chain and the fettler/rider has joined it with a pin, without complete success.
PS: This thread from 2019 illuminates the chain/cassette interface and wear mechanisms and the issues those throw up:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/why-a-worn-cassette-cannot-damage-a-new-chain.255700/

 

[Jody]

To be fair, if the chain fails on this - worst case scenario is falling over into a puddle of mud -

Or slipping off the pedal and the pedal pins running up your shin

If you plan on keeping the bike then just replace the drive train. I bought an SLX triple chainset a few months ago for almost the same price as the single big ring (£37). Throw in a cassette/chain and your probably around £100.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I bought an SLX triple chainset a few months ago for almost the same price as the single big ring (£37). Throw in a cassette/chain and your probably around £100.

Well let's have that link for a SLX triple (kudos for finding one so cheap)?
£63 for a 9sp chain and cassette? Seems extravagant to me. How about £35 (10sp = £40)?

 

[Blue Hills]

Well let's have that link for a SLX triple (kudos for finding one so cheap)?
£63 for a 9sp chain and cassette? Seems extravagant to me. How about £35 (10sp = £40)?

yes, at least until recent supply issues I could get a perfectly good 9 speed chain and cassette for about £25 all in.

 

[Jody]

Well let's have that link for a SLX triple (kudos for finding one so cheap)?
£63 for a 9sp chain and cassette? Seems extravagant to me. How about £35 (10sp = £40)?

Part of the £100 was compensating for not being able to find a chainset for £37. Having check they were actually more expensive at £37.99

They were such good value that I bought two

Wiggle must have been selling them off.