Fitting new bike chain

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bobsinatra

Über Member
Hi

This is my first attempt at fitting a chain, so I want to make sure that I do it correctly.

I kept my old chain and placed it next to the new one (KMC).

In the video, where I point my finger, is this the right to pin to pop out?

As I didn't fit the original chain, I ran the chain around the largest sprocket and outer chain ring. This length matched up with the method of comparing to the old chain ring (both leave me with 4 remaining pins that will be discarded when broken)

I have also attached a video showing the KMC connectors, as they are the simplest to connect, I imaging I just need two clear pins at the end of each chain length to match them up.

I have watched the GNC video, but don't want to waste a chain with a first time mistake.

Any advice appreciated.

Cheers

BS


View: https://youtu.be/6RcAPL8-N4I
 
OP
OP
bobsinatra

bobsinatra

Über Member
 
Make sure you measure the pull on the rear mech with the bike in Big sprocket Big ring. Ideally you don’t want to be riding it in that gear much, but if you don’t check, and find yourself in big-big, and your chain’s too short, you could be in a spot of bother.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
I ran the chain around the largest sprocket and outer chain ring.
Both ends of the new chain will be 'inner links' (the other half inch links are the 'outer plates'). You've done the 'run it round large/large' and you want your final chain to be at least one (1") link longer than that, but not more than two (2") links longer. You need to push out the pin that will leave you with an inner link at the 'new' end of the chain. Take into account that the quicklink will give another half inch. If in doubt, go long: you can always take another link out.
When the chain is fitted (through the RD cage now) ready to ride. Shift the chain onto large/large. The RD cage should not be 'higher' than 4:30pm (ie >45o to horizontal). Shift the chain onto small/small. The return section of the chain should be 5-15mm below the chain going round the tension jockey wheel.
All the above assumes you have not fitted some out-of-spec cassette on the back and that the difference in teeth between the large and small chainrings is 20t or less.
Make sure you measure the pull on the rear mech with the bike in Big sprocket Big ring.
I have no idea what @rr means by this. Explanation of how one might "measure the pull" in any quantative way is invited.
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
Unless the old chain is the wrong length.
Well obviously :rolleyes:
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
It's not cheating. It's the easiest way to get ot right.
Unless the old chain is the wrong length.
Well obviously
@slowmotion 's caveat may be obvious to you (and many others) but may not be 'obvious to, say, Anne and Paul. Which is why, with respect Ian, it may the 'easiest way' but not the best way 'to get it right'. Of course if one has fitted the current/old chain (and done it right then) then one has a much higher level of assurance.
 

annedonnelly

Girl from the North Country
@slowmotion 's caveat may be obvious to you (and many others) but may not be 'obvious to, say, Anne and Paul. Which is why, with respect Ian, it may the 'easiest way' but not the best way 'to get it right'. Of course if one has fitted the current/old chain (and done it right then) then one has a much higher level of assurance.

If you're really organised you make a note of the count for next time - only if you're confident it's correct, of course. And a note of when you made the change so you can compare mileage between changes.
 
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