First Puncture. Help needed

[Bill Gates]

Surprised no one has mentioned that before you inflate tyre fully to spin the wheel to make sure that the tyre is seated uniformly on the rim. Looking at the profile while it is spinning can identify any lumpy bits; a sure sign that it is out of alignment. I learnt this the hard way when I fully inflated a tyre once and it blew off the rim and blasted the inner tube.

If repairing or replacing tyres/tubes then talcum powder will make it easier to get the tyre fitted by lubricating the surfaces of rim, tyre and tube and ensure that any new repairs don't stick to the inside of the tyre.

 

[jimboalee]

If you can take the wheel off easily, do it. If its not quick release, I wouldnt bother unless absolutelly necessary, I'd fix it in situ.

Atfer flipping the bike upside down or otherwise securing it in a possition ready to be worked on:

1) Deflate fully and if removing the wheel, slacken the break calipers using the quick release mechanism on the caliper (most modern brakes seem to have them) to allow the wheel to be pulled out.
2) Slacken the nut holding the valve to the rim
3) Pop tyre off one side (can be done in situ)
4) Pull the inner tube out (it will still be attached to the bike if you didnt remove the wheel but you can still manipulate it enough to do the fix)
5) Pump it up
6) Locate the puncture by either running the inner tube near your lips to feel the air, or by dunking it into a tub of water, you will see bubbles where its leaking
7) Mark the puncture location
8) Dry the tube
9) Rough up the spot with puncture using glass paper or a file (sometimes come with puncture repair kit)
10) Apply the patch glue
11) Wait 5-15 mins (read time on your kits instruction)
12) While waiting inspect the tyre inside and out for a sharp object that may be stuck in there, remove any sharps
13) Apply the patch
14) Wait a bit longer
15) Remove the backing form the patch
16) Re-align the valve and put back through the rim, put the nut on
17) Pump it up ever so slightly (so its less likely to get snagged when putting the tyre back on)
18) Push it back into the tyre onto the rim
19) Carefully pop the tyre back on taking care not to snag the inner tube between bead and rim
20) Pump it up to rideable but not full pressure (this will get you to where you need to be)
21) After a day or so (to make sure patch is fully set and stuck), pump it up to pressure

Good to go!

Rubber solution.

Apply a lot and smear it round a large area. Wait for the said 15 minutes and test it by touching it in a place far away from where the patch will be. It should be dry to touch.

When you've taken the backing off the patch, get the small yellow plastic container of powdered chalk, remove the little pin and puff some chalk on the patch and exposed rubber solution. Brush off with your bloodstained fingers.

 

[longers]

One other tip, make a chalk (or pen or something) mark on the sidewall of the tyre next to the valve. Then when you've located the puncture on the inner tube, you can work out where on the tyre to look for the thorn, glass, nail, stone or whatever that's caused the problem in the first place. Otherwise, you can sometimes search for ages and end up missing it and then you'll get another puncture fairly sharpish (sharpish, geddit?).

Very much along the same lines as Gouldina's advice - when fitting your tyres if you line up the logo on the tyre with the valve it'll enable you to narrow down where to look for the offending item.

 

[Debian]

You really need to be carrying a spare inner tube or two, and a pump of course. £3 for a pack of two tubes at Lidl, hardly Rockerfeller money. It's always easier quicker and better to simply change tubes at the roadside than try to repair, I mean what do you do when it's chucking it down, freezing cold and the wheel is covered in dirt? You could be there for ages trying to find a pinhole and then how do you get the patch to stick when everything's soaking wet? I'd never voluntarily venture more than a mile or two from home without a spare tube.

Just make sure, absolutely sure you have whatever caused the puncture out of your tyre, fit new tube, pump up and cycle off - 10 minutes tops. I always carry a pair of disposable gloves and a thin cotton glove. Pop on the disposables, take off wheel, remove tyre. Now put on the cotton glove and run that around the inside of the tyre - anything sharp will snag the glove so you'll feel it and it will protect you from cuts.

Personally, I only repair tubes if I feel in the mood to do it and have time to spare. If I've just used my last spare then I probably will but nine times out of ten I simply chuck it and buy a new one.

 

[chrisb1357]

Hi all,

Well managed to cycyle to work today fine. this time decided to stay on the main road and not use the cycyle paths where i got the puncture. Problem is i was a bit worried as i had to get over 2 and then 3 lanes of traffic in a 60mph area.

Just chcked at dinner at work and tyre still solid.

I am going to follow your tips and invest in some spare tubes and once i get paid get some new tyres and a pump.

Will see how it go;s this evening when cycyling home

thanks again to everyone on here for the good tips and advice.

Chris

 

[joggingbob]

Sometimes it is a bit of a pain to get the backing paper off the patch and rather than chance lifting the patch just leave the backing paper on.

 

[Banjo]

Hi all,

Well managed to cycyle to work today fine. this time decided to stay on the main road and not use the cycyle paths where i got the puncture. Problem is i was a bit worried as i had to get over 2 and then 3 lanes of traffic in a 60mph area.

Just chcked at dinner at work and tyre still solid.

I am going to follow your tips and invest in some spare tubes and once i get paid get some new tyres and a pump.

Will see how it go;s this evening when cycyling home

thanks again to everyone on here for the good tips and advice.

Chris

Well done.Loads of good advice for you to study above. One other point to check is that your valve stem is free to move in and out of the hole. If its jammed in the hole the tube next to it wont be resting properly on the rim ,will form a little bubble then burst after a few days or weeks.

I carry a spare tube plus repair kit on the bike.

Good luck, hope you dont need any of the advice too soon

 

[chrisb1357]

Is this make sure its free to move without the nut on and when pumped up?

Chris

Well done.Loads of good advice for you to study above. One other point to check is that your valve stem is free to move in and out of the hole. If its jammed in the hole the tube next to it wont be resting properly on the rim ,will form a little bubble then burst after a few days or weeks.

I carry a spare tube plus repair kit on the bike.

Good luck, hope you dont need any of the advice too soon

 

[Randochap]

don't blindly run your fingers round the inside of the

Very important one, this. A fellow LBS employee ended up with the broken end of a syringe embedded in his finger. Very worrying until his blood tests came back clear.

 

[JtB]

Sometimes it is a bit of a pain to get the backing paper off the patch and rather than chance lifting the patch just leave the backing paper on.

+1

 

[Bill Gates]

+1

Use a stanley knife or razor blade and cut a cross on the backing paper whilst glued to the tube. This makes it safer to unpeel as you place your thumb on top of the patch and therefore peel back to the sides and not away from the tube.

I normally remove the backing paper before applying the patch, oh and always put glue on both the patch and the tube.

 

[Rob3rt]

Is this make sure its free to move without the nut on and when pumped up?

Chris

Yes, If you slacken the nut a little it should be able to move freely in and out if the tube isnt fully pumped up. It should be secure with the nut.

 

[Davidc]

Learnt a new trick from this thread - about putting the main logo on the tyre beside the valve to ease finding the p*****r* fairy's dagger.

I've never heard that one before but will be applying it in future!