First go at changing cassette

[MattDB]

I'm changing my first cassette and all sems to have gone smoothly. But I was unsure of a couple of things and wondered if I could get some thoughts:

1. What are those 2 nuts at the end (top of picpic below)? They turn independently but are very slack. Do I need to tighten these? I fear I have already done too much.

2. I've watched a mechanic remove a cassette and he had to work really hard to loosen it off. Mine was barely hand tight - this shouldn't be right should it?

3. Also putting on a new chain, after removing the old one realised how much better access I have for cleaning the derailleurs. Does removing the chain regularly weaken links? I've not got a fancy easy break link, just have to punch out the link with my chain breaker.

Hope the below link or image works correctly:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8csj897mop7etcl/2015-10-18 22.19.08.jpg?dl=0

 

[steve50]

The two nuts on the end of the axle are for adjusting the bearings / removing play in your wheel, if you have slackened them off you will need to make sure non of the ball bearings have dropped out and you will have to retighten the nuts to remove any play in the axle prior to fitting the wheel back on the bike.
You found the cassette easy to remove , you probably just got lucky, they can be very tight sometimes but using the correct tools for the job can make light work of it.
As long as you remove and refit chain links with care ensuring the rivet goes back through the link and fits solidly into the back plate it should be fine.
edit; the two nuts should not have been slack as they are supposed to lock against each other, is your bike a recent acquisition, I am thinking someone has already been tinkering prior to yourself.

 

[Gravity Aided]

1-Those are the nuts that snug up the bearings, cone nuts. Does the wheel spin freely, with out play ? Then you're probably good.
2- I've found cassettes vary, but usually, they require some effort to get them moving.
3- You might get some of those quick links, they make the job easier.

 

[Gravity Aided]

oops, simulpost.

 

[MattDB]

Thanks very much both.

I've had the bike a year (from new) but haven't touched the cone nuts before so could have worked loose maybe, or arrived like that? I'd just turned the outside one so hopefully haven't actually tightened anything, although if it should have been snug I should check (after reading a how to guide!) the bearings now.

 

[Elswick Cotterpin]

If you hold the wheel at the rim, assuming it's fitted to the bike, see if there is any side to side movement, if there is it means the cones are loose, those two lock nuts that were mentioned. Not too hard to remedy but can take a little while, trial and error, tightening them both without actually over-tightening the cones at the same time. Wheel should turn freely without any binding and hopefully without any side to side play...

Just take your time, you'll get a 'feel' for it. If you want to remove, clean, regrease, replace, repack bearings etc, it takes longer.

 

[MattDB]

Thanks - what tool should I be using? They look like normal nuts but are recessed.

 

[Globalti]

Go and buy a set of cone spanners, which are thinner than normal spanners to give you access to those narrow locknuts.

 

[mjr]

Use cone spanners for those nuts. Special thin and usually slightly offset jaws to reach into the recess.

Removing and reinstalling the chain repeatedly with a tool will weaken it. Using quick links or magic links will allow more removals but those links will wear out eventually.

 

[Cubist]

Whoaaaah!!

If you haven't used cone spanners to undo the two nuts, they don't need any further attention. They rotate independently of the cassette and freewheel because they are supposed to. What you can see in the picture is the drive side locknut. It has another slimmer nut underneath which acts on the bearing cone. That nut and its opposite number on the non drive side should be tight to the nuts underneath, but in effect remain completely still on the axle and the wheel revolves around them.

Check before you continue, by holding the wheel by the protruding axle stubs and spin the wheel. It should spin freely with no graunching noises or rumbling. Now check for play in the bearings by trying to move the axle stubs from side to side. They shouldn't move laterally. If there is some play or graunch, read this:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Cup-and-Cone-Hub-Basics-2011.html

Using your cassette removal tool, tighten the cassette lockring to -F tight on the Cubist Scale. That means not quite as hard as you can before it feels like it's going to break, or three grates of the gratey feeling thing that goes on with cassette lockrings.

 

[MattDB]

Thanks.

I've looked at those linked resources -

So from that I understand , all I've done is slightly tighten a loose locknut which should have been tight anyway and I shouldn't need to adjust anything else at all - just make sure that this is tight against the one beneath it - I have cone spanners but does this need to be done with the cassette removed? I could probably get a cone spanner on the end of the locknut to tighten it up but the other nut is submerged beneath the cassette - or am I being daft?