Fearing the worst in the alps

[lpretro1]

And coming down with disc brakes is what i'm so looking forward too....................there will defo be pics

Be aware that disk brakes are not invincible - they can overheat and if you boil the fluid you will then suffer 'brake fade' which means they will not work very well - so go steady on them

 

[jowwy]

Be aware that disk brakes are not invincible - they can overheat and if you boil the fluid you will then suffer 'brake fade' which means they will not work very well - so go steady on them

Cant boil fluid on mechanical brakes..........

 

[lpretro1]

That's true

 

[Lpoolck]

Nice find, for what it's worth I think your right to have those gears to bail you out in the steeper sections of the climbs.

Looking forward to seeing the pics and getting a review of how it performs.

Good luck with your training.

 

[swansonj]

Can you do 90rpm on a 10% hill? I think I'd be down in the 50's.

But isn't that because you've chosen not to fit lower gears? If someone finds 90 rpm an optmum cadence on the flat, I can't see any good reason why it shouldn't also be more-or-less their optimum cadence up a hill. The reason most people climb hills with lower cadence, I've always assumed, is a kind of macho thing - people feel it's somehow unmanly or an admission of failure to have a bike with low gears, hence the frequent references to "granny gears" or "baling out". And because there's this whole culture about not using gears that are low enough to make climbing hills a pleasure rather than a test, there's little demand for them, and manufacturers and bike shops can get away with not selling them, so people don't realise it's possible, and it becomes a viscious circle.

Consider a reasonably fit cyclist climbing our notional 10% hill at 200 W. That power output - 200 W - determines the speed - 4.7 mph assuming rider+bike 85 kg. You can achieve that with different gearing and cadence: 36x28 will give a cadence of 45 rpm or 24x32 a cadence of 78 rpm. So you can, if you wish, still maintain a reasonably high cadence, by fitting lower gears.

But, of course, the gear you need for a given cadence varies with what your power output is. If you're a TdF rider, ouputting 400 W up an Alpine climb, that 36x28 would get you a cadence of (roughly) 90 rpm. I'd suggest that one of the reason many people accept shops selling them bikes with not-very-low gearing is that they, and the shop salesperson, know that that gearing is what keen racers use and assume it must therefore be right for them - without fully appreciating the difference in fitness.

In the other direction, if you're like me, pretty unfit and you just want to cycle up the hill at an enjoyably relaxed pace that you can keep up all day without knackering yourself, say less than 100 W, you'll want even lower gears to maintain a comfortable cadence. Good luck with that in your average bike shop

 

[the snail]

No.......and thats what i dont want to do

Always better to have a gear you don't need than not have the one you do I reckon. Have an excellent time

 

[Crackle]

But isn't that because you've chosen not to fit lower gears? If someone finds 90 rpm an optmum cadence on the flat, I can't see any good reason why it shouldn't also be more-or-less their optimum cadence up a hill. The reason most people climb hills with lower cadence, I've always assumed, is a kind of macho thing - people feel it's somehow unmanly or an admission of failure to have a bike with low gears, hence the frequent references to "granny gears" or "baling out". And because there's this whole culture about not using gears that are low enough to make climbing hills a pleasure rather than a test, there's little demand for them, and manufacturers and bike shops can get away with not selling them, so people don't realise it's possible, and it becomes a viscious circle.

Consider a reasonably fit cyclist climbing our notional 10% hill at 200 W. That power output - 200 W - determines the speed - 4.7 mph assuming rider+bike 85 kg. You can achieve that with different gearing and cadence: 36x28 will give a cadence of 45 rpm or 24x32 a cadence of 78 rpm. So you can, if you wish, still maintain a reasonably high cadence, by fitting lower gears.

But, of course, the gear you need for a given cadence varies with what your power output is. If you're a TdF rider, ouputting 400 W up an Alpine climb, that 36x28 would get you a cadence of (roughly) 90 rpm. I'd suggest that one of the reason many people accept shops selling them bikes with not-very-low gearing is that they, and the shop salesperson, know that that gearing is what keen racers use and assume it must therefore be right for them - without fully appreciating the difference in fitness.

In the other direction, if you're like me, pretty unfit and you just want to cycle up the hill at an enjoyably relaxed pace that you can keep up all day without knackering yourself, say less than 100 W, you'll want even lower gears to maintain a comfortable cadence. Good luck with that in your average bike shop

I've not found that to be true and I have low gears. I've never done climbs as long s the Alps though so in that sense my experience is limited but if I use the low gears I have on something like The Struggle or the Wrynose or the Newlands, well it doesn't matter, it's still too hard to spin.

 

[jowwy]

For me its not about my fitness, its more my size. A lot will remember on here that i used to do a fair but of time trialling even at my size and got pretty close to my target of high 25s.....best was a 26.09. So power and fitness isnt really an issue......the issue is carting 110kgs up alpine climbs

Now some people mock the lower gearing and say things like " i would only go that low on a fully laiden tourer", then when you tell them that my weight+bike = heavier than your fully laiden tourer, they then realise (but not fully) what us big guys deal with when climbing 10%+

I will keep training and at this moment ive got my kit on and the Ti is calling me from the cave........so its time to get my ass on the saddle and do a bit of riding

 

[alpine fenlander]

Perhaps one useful training tip: Get your ass out of the saddle :-) On the long climbs it really helps if you can ride for at least a couple of minutes here and there out of the saddle - it uses different muscles and losens your back and arms up a bit. It does take some training though...

Yes I agree, weight makes a huge difference. In many ways I'm as fit now as I was 20 years ago, but I'm now 20kg heavier. Here in the flatlands it's not a problem but when I go back home to the Alps it's just soooo much harder :-( So do get the smallest gear you can find, (I wouldn't even try without a triple and I'm 'only' 85kg) and yes sometimes walking would be faster, but with a small gear at least you have the option of a bit of spinning in between the grinding.

Contrary to popular opinion there are plenty of very steep 20%+ sections and they often come after a couple of hours climbing right at the top. Those are easy enough to avoid though if you stick to the more touristy TDF roads where they have to get coaches, trucks and caravans up, so they aren't as steep.

Going downhill is great fun, but you might want to have a look at different braking techniques. Disc brakes are much better, but after 1h or so your hands will still hurt so I usually do a sort of 'pumping' braking or alternate front and back etc. Depending on your brake pads they might also wear out quite quickly when they get hot... Try and keep pedalling a bit on the downhill as well, after a long climb and with the wind chill it's easy to cramp up. It's pretty much always cold at the top as well so I doesn't hurt to take some leg warmers and some lightweight jacket (plus the weather is just like in Wales - you can get 4 seasons in a few hours). Drink more than you would at home though - dry continental air and going high up takes more liquid out of you (i.e. make use of all the cafe stops you can find!).

Take it easy, enjoy the scenery and don't worry how fast or slow you're going and ignore the speed of other cyclists. These days you're more likely to get overtaken by some pensioner with a child seat anyway, because there are so many people on electric bikes...

 

[colinbow]

Hi Jowwy
Have you set up the Roadlink and new cassette? I ask because I have ordered same today. The Spyre brakes you sold me are still working perfectly. Regards COLIN

 

[jowwy]

Hi Jowwy
Have you set up the Roadlink and new cassette? I ask because I have ordered same today. The Spyre brakes you sold me are still working perfectly. Regards COLIN

Yes all set up and running like a dream....i did change the front chainring from 50 to 46 though, so that i could use big/big.......

sram 22 with yaw, before anybody says you shouldnt run big/big due to chainline blah blah blah

 

[cyberknight]

Can you do 90rpm on a 10% hill? I think I'd be down in the 50's.

Depends on gearing , i have been getting faster on rpm recently to the pit i am thinking of changing my small front from a 36 to a 34, going up a big hill on a club run i was in my lowest 36x 28 doing 80 rpm ish .

 

[si_c]

Yes all set up and running like a dream....i did change the front chainring from 50 to 46 though, so that i could use big/big.......
sram 22 with yaw, before anybody says you shouldnt run big/big due to chainline blah blah blah

I'm the same as you, I've lost a bit of weight, and I'm "only" around 95kg these days, I can put out quite a bit of power, but that is totally swamped by my weight. I opted for a 48/32 chainring and 11-34 cassette with my new bike, and I can honestly say I'm quite happy. I could probably go 11-36 if needed, but to be honest I've found it fine on the shorter climbs I've done so far, although they're often quite steep (14%+) and one of my benchmark hill was much easier to climb.

 

[Ajax Bay]

going up a big hill on a club run i was in my lowest 36x 28 doing 80 rpm ish .

Going up a big hill at 8mph is a credit to your ability to sustain power for the length of the 'big hill' or the gradient was not too bad. 350+ watts up a 10% gradient for 10 minutes (say).

 

[jowwy]

I'm the same as you, I've lost a bit of weight, and I'm "only" around 95kg these days, I can put out quite a bit of power, but that is totally swamped by my weight. I opted for a 48/32 chainring and 11-34 cassette with my new bike, and I can honestly say I'm quite happy. I could probably go 11-36 if needed, but to be honest I've found it fine on the shorter climbs I've done so far, although they're often quite steep (14%+) and one of my benchmark hill was much easier to climb.

i'm a little bit heavier than your 95kgs..........currently sitting at 17st 6lbs, so yeh its not easy for us big guys, but put me on a flat road the guys i ride with get a whole lot of hurt lol

i'm currently dropping weight at a rate of 2lbs per week, which should have me at around 16st when we hit the alps..........so i'll be pretty confident in my gearing and power by then