FAT BIKE drivetrain upgrading i need help?
- Thread starter xazulyn
- Start date
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http://moosebicycle.com/us/the-fat-bike.html based on this what do you suggest.
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
Upgrading from 10 speed Deore?
What did you have in mind? Something doesn't seem right here!
What did you have in mind? Something doesn't seem right here!
dddd
Regular
- Location
- So-far dry California
Usually an upgrade is to address a specific failing or shortcoming of the gearing or shifting performance.
How is your fatbike's drivetrain not meeting your needs?
On my Mongoose 27.5+ bike that I bought at Kmart, I started with the shifters since the original twist-shifters worked terribly. I used 7s Rapidfire shifters that I already had. I later fitted a Shimano chain because the original chain was an old-fashioned style that shifted sluggish and allowed slippage while shifting.
Finally, I replaced the entire crankset ad bb because the original bb needed constant readjustments and because the original steel crankset weighed almost 3-1/2 pounds.
If your bike has Shimano parts they should work fine already if adjusted properly.
That Moose bike looks like it could use a suspension fork and suspension seatpost. I added a shock post to mine but it came with a suspension fork that only needed boots/gaiters and fresh grease inside to work smoothly for a decent service interval of more than a couple of rides off road. My fork is still a flexible pogo-stick of a fork but that's what a department store bike comes with for $200 USD.
My upgrades doubles the cost of my bike, but now it finishes off-road rides needing little more than chain lube and brake adjustment most of the time.
How is your fatbike's drivetrain not meeting your needs?
On my Mongoose 27.5+ bike that I bought at Kmart, I started with the shifters since the original twist-shifters worked terribly. I used 7s Rapidfire shifters that I already had. I later fitted a Shimano chain because the original chain was an old-fashioned style that shifted sluggish and allowed slippage while shifting.
Finally, I replaced the entire crankset ad bb because the original bb needed constant readjustments and because the original steel crankset weighed almost 3-1/2 pounds.
If your bike has Shimano parts they should work fine already if adjusted properly.
That Moose bike looks like it could use a suspension fork and suspension seatpost. I added a shock post to mine but it came with a suspension fork that only needed boots/gaiters and fresh grease inside to work smoothly for a decent service interval of more than a couple of rides off road. My fork is still a flexible pogo-stick of a fork but that's what a department store bike comes with for $200 USD.
My upgrades doubles the cost of my bike, but now it finishes off-road rides needing little more than chain lube and brake adjustment most of the time.
Last edited:
T.M.H.N.E.T
Rainbows aren't just for world champions
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I really do hate to be the bearer of terrible news but they don't
An upgrade can easily double the cost of a bike. Whether it doubles the value is another matter.
The whole idea of a fat bike is that it does not need suspension as the tyres will perform this function
Therein lies the basic issue.
The geometry is not set up for speed/
Then there are the tyres...
There is some discussion (complex!) as to whether a wide tyre or narrow tyre is faster, as the actual amount of material in contact is similar
However there is a common truth in that a larger tyre will require more energy to rotate it
Then we come to the grip.....knobbly tyres are designed to grip on the surface which in turn will increase resistance
Slicks can make a bike faster when compared with a knobbly tyre, and you can get slick and semi slick versions.
So in summary, the bike is poorly designed for speed, and all of these are to do with the wheels rather than the drive train rotating that wheel.
No change to the drive train will alter the basic faults
Therein lies the basic issue.
The geometry is not set up for speed/
Then there are the tyres...
There is some discussion (complex!) as to whether a wide tyre or narrow tyre is faster, as the actual amount of material in contact is similar
However there is a common truth in that a larger tyre will require more energy to rotate it
Then we come to the grip.....knobbly tyres are designed to grip on the surface which in turn will increase resistance
Slicks can make a bike faster when compared with a knobbly tyre, and you can get slick and semi slick versions.
So in summary, the bike is poorly designed for speed, and all of these are to do with the wheels rather than the drive train rotating that wheel.
No change to the drive train will alter the basic faults
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
1) If the cassette has not already got an 11 tooth smallest sprocket, replace your cassette with one which has.
2) Replace your chainset with one with a larger large chainwheel. You will be able to get one which fits your bottom bracket. You may need a new front derailleur, depending how many more teeth the new chainwheel has ie if the difference is more than 4 (say).
3) Up your cadence as well and the road bikes you fly past will think they're standing still.
Nearly all the advice from posters above has been much more useful than the detail in your original post: no attacks there. If you think that these posts are 'attacks' then you should read a few more threads where people have said 'I want to upgrade' without saying why/for what purpose. Taking the trouble to capitalise (eg first word of sentence) and punctuate your posts will go down well too: it's that arrow button on your phone and the 123 button.
