External Bearing Bottom Brackets - How long before the bearing need replacing

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RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
But then, you can't have quality at budget prices.

Except for whatever reason equally cheap if not cheaper and no less cheerful square tapered UN52 etc. seem to last much longer... :whistle:

Actually not only that, do you all find the HT2/outboard chainsets tend to spin with far more drag upon installation (i.e. before having chain on) compared with said good old square tapered?
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Except for whatever reason equally cheap if not cheaper and no less cheerful square tapered UN52 etc. seem to last much longer... :whistle:

3 years for a UN54 on the Fixed. The MTB does eat them though. Also got DA and Ultegra square taper cartridge BB's on the road bikes - been there over 10 years
 
On my Tiagra HT2 I too had 'the click', so I replaced with an Ultegra HT2...a few months later the click again. Turned out to be the splines on the chainset were a little bit rough and needed a little sanding and some more grease, not heard it since.
I think I bought the extra BB for nothing.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Except for whatever reason equally cheap if not cheaper and no less cheerful square tapered UN52 etc. seem to last much longer... :whistle:

Actually not only that, do you all find the HT2/outboard chainsets tend to spin with far more drag upon installation (i.e. before having chain on) compared with said good old square tapered?
If the bearings are greased with heavy duty marine grease I would expect a bit of resistance, but I would check preload. That cap only needs to be finger tight on Shimano cranks
 

anyuser

Über Member
What do you FSA megaexo users replace yours with when they fail? They seem to be so many different models.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
In my opinion the external bearing bottom bracket design is a step backwards. Isn't it the case that the alignment of the bearings depends on the accuracy and quality with which the bottom bracket shell has been faced-off? Non-parallel facing-off = bearings trashed in no time at all. Sealed units have the advantage here because the bearing alignment is set at the factory and remains the same after installation in a bottom bracket shell. The old-style non-sealed bottom brackets with two cups, bearings and a spindle also required accurate facing-off on the bottom bracket shell to ensure the bearings were running true.

The old-style non-sealed bottom brackets with two cups, bearings and a spindle had even greater longevity. I serviced one the other day. Been in place 30 years since I built up that bike. Only had to strip it because the grease had turned to soap and it was getting a bit stiff.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
If the bearings are greased with heavy duty marine grease I would expect a bit of resistance, but I would check preload. That cap only needs to be finger tight on Shimano cranks

I don't know about you, but I find them with significantly greater drag even with no preload...
 

mrandmrspoves

Middle aged bald git.
Location
Narfuk
Off my friend's 2011 Dalesman - so completed about 3k......
I have given him a lecture on caring for his bike!
 

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Bodhbh

Guru
I've had 2 Deore ones both go in about 2k miles. I have one of the next up in the Shimano range (SLX or XT) on my tourer and it's lasted 5k miles and still going. All my BBs are faced and I'm careful not to overtighten the cap.

When they start devoloping play I've often got a good few hundred miles out of them till it starts bugging me too much, so it's not the end of the world if it happens on tour, but not great either.
 

Bodhbh

Guru
Um remembered this thread and hence the random update...

Went thru a 3rd Deore HT2 over winter - again in about 2k miles - so will give the Gusset 24 recommended a go. If the cartridges are replaceable, worth a punt at 20 quid vs 14 quid for the made of cheese Deores...
 

Shut Up Legs

Down Under Member
On my Tiagra HT2 I too had 'the click', so I replaced with an Ultegra HT2...a few months later the click again. Turned out to be the splines on the chainset were a little bit rough and needed a little sanding and some more grease, not heard it since.
I think I bought the extra BB for nothing.
What splines are you referring to? I'm new to BB maintenance and replacement (replaced my first Shimano HT-II BB only a few weeks ago), so I'd like to know about any possible source of annoying noises.
 
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