Electronic gears

[jay clock]

https://www.vanillabikes.com/produc...MIlZCV-Ybz4AIVCZ3tCh2M4wW4EAQYAiABEgKjcvD_BwE

thanks, useful info. Not sure yet if I need the complete groupset (link), or I can just add in the all the shifters (link)

I would not be surprised if it was cheaper to buy a new bike with Di2...... also a retrofit may be a fiddle for battery and cable installation inside the frame

 

[JhnBssll]

I've retro-fitted Di2 to both my road bikes and have a set of R8070 Ultegra Di2 bits ready to fit to a new frameset when I choose what I want I originally fitted Di2 to the best bike but liked it so much I fitted it to the winter bike too as I missed it when I went back to mechanical...

I own both and would say there's no noticeable difference in use between R8050 Ultegra and R9150 Dura Ace so save your money There's not a great deal between R8070 and R6870 in performance either, but the newer R8050 gets the shadow rear mech which is less prone to damage and much nicer hydraulic STI's if you have disc brakes (which I do).

To convert a non-Di2 bike that already has a Shimano 2x11 groupset you'll need:

- STI's (shifters/brake levers), generally the most expensive part, especially if hydraulic
- Front Mech
- Rear Mech
- Battery (several options, make sure it's compatible if you want to use a wireless module)
- Junction Box A (an electrical hub that the wires go to at the front of the bike) - I use the EW-RS910 as it allows internal cables and it super neat
- Junction Box B (same but goes near the bottom bracket)
- several eTube wires (these are about £17 each and you'll need between 5 and 8 of them depending how you connect it all up, don't underestimate the cost of these!)
- Wireless module if you want to connect to the system via bluetooth
- Charger
- Di2 fitting kit for your particular frame, grommets, battery mounting kit etc..

The costs all add up but IMO it's a worthy upgrade if you're using the bike a lot and have the money available, I wouldn't go back to mechanical on my nice bikes now although I still use SRAM Rival on the commuter

 

[FishFright]

DI2/ Sram wireless and EPS really seems to divide people into two strong camps;

1. Those who have tried and rather enjoyed the experience
and
2. Those who have never tried it but know its pointless expensive rubbish that you don't deserve.

 

[CXRAndy]

My single speed is prepared for Di2 when I lose interest with one gear and want Alfine hub. I have fitted Di2 hydraulic levers for the brakes currently.

I will keep an eye out for deals on either Alfine 8 or 11 speed .

 

[Smokin Joe]

DI2/ Sram wireless and EPS really seems to divide people into two strong camps;

1. Those who have tried and rather enjoyed the experience
and
2. Those who have never tried it but know its pointless expensive rubbish that you don't deserve.

And those in 2 were saying the same about a sixth sprocket, indexing, clipless pedals, integrated shifters, aluminium, carbon etc etc etc.

 

[Simon_m]

I've retro-fitted Di2 to both my road bikes and have a set of R8070 Ultegra Di2 bits ready to fit to a new frameset when I choose what I want I originally fitted Di2 to the best bike but liked it so much I fitted it to the winter bike too as I missed it when I went back to mechanical...

I own both and would say there's no noticeable difference in use between R8050 Ultegra and R9150 Dura Ace so save your money There's not a great deal between R8070 and R6870 in performance either, but the newer R8050 gets the shadow rear mech which is less prone to damage and much nicer hydraulic STI's if you have disc brakes (which I do).

To convert a non-Di2 bike that already has a Shimano 2x11 groupset you'll need:

- STI's (shifters/brake levers), generally the most expensive part, especially if hydraulic
- Front Mech
- Rear Mech
- Battery (several options, make sure it's compatible if you want to use a wireless module)
- Junction Box A (an electrical hub that the wires go to at the front of the bike) - I use the EW-RS910 as it allows internal cables and it super neat
- Junction Box B (same but goes near the bottom bracket)
- several eTube wires (these are about £17 each and you'll need between 5 and 8 of them depending how you connect it all up, don't underestimate the cost of these!)
- Wireless module if you want to connect to the system via bluetooth
- Charger
- Di2 fitting kit for your particular frame, grommets, battery mounting kit etc..

The costs all add up but IMO it's a worthy upgrade if you're using the bike a lot and have the money available, I wouldn't go back to mechanical on my nice bikes now although I still use SRAM Rival on the commuter

thanks, glad someone knows what they are talking about.

 

[Simon_m]

I would not be surprised if it was cheaper to buy a new bike with Di2...... also a retrofit may be a fiddle for battery and cable installation inside the frame

turns out my bike is all prepared with it, just need to effectively "plug and play"

 

[mustang1]

There we go. Want to watch a movie on internet TV and now cant find it on Google Play. So now have to go thru the switch off, switch on phone and tv and perhaps router and then some other troubleshooting before I get to watch a movie. Grrr..

Edit: problem found: router dropped connection. On TV, disconnect and reconnect. If this was a bike, I could have ridden 5 miles by now!

 

[Ajax Bay]

my bike is all prepared for it, just need effectively to "plug and pay"

FTFY