Duck Foot cleat postition

[PW72464]

Hello, I have a question about cleat position.
My natural foot position on the pedal (no clips or anything) is very central in my arch basically and pointing out at about 1 to 2 oclock. This is way outside the range of adjustment of the standard cleats out there. I tried SPD's with various set up hoping it was just me who was weird\lazy and the cleats adjustment range is there for a reason. For me this doesn't seem to be true, and it feels horrid and I end up with knee pain. I also overpronate massively when running but have shoes and inserts to compensate.
Has anybody ever gone DIY and drilled new holes/cleat positions, as I feel a midfoot position that matches my natural postion although looking weird would work for me?

 

[themosquitoking]

I think you're saying you want to move the cleats further back on your shoe, if this is the case you might experience extraordinary toe overlap with the front wheel.

 

[screenman]

I think you're saying you want to move the cleats further back on your shoe, if this is the case you might experience extraordinary toe overlap with the front wheel.

All of my bikes have toe overlap.

 

[PW72464]

yes, a long way back. I would need to check overlap and that I wasn't jabbing my foot in my front wheel n stuff, but wondered if anybody had tried it, and how to do it.
or if im being an idiot for even thinking it!

 

[themosquitoking]

All of my bikes have toe overlap.

Mine too, i said extraordinary.

 

[themosquitoking]

Normally spd have slots instead of just holes for cleat adjustment, if you were going to drill holes into the base of the shoe you would have to be very accurate. Also i imagine it would invalidate any warranty immediately.

 

[Sharky]

Speed play pedals might help? They should allow your feet to point out?

But would persevere with keeping the ball of the foot over the pedal axle. Much more efficient.


Keith

 

[PW72464]

didn't realise that about speedplay, might see if I can find some to borrow, otherwise it s an exepnsive experiment.

 

[yello]

I know some riders do drill their shoes, so it can be done. I don't know how though.

Edit: loads of references on the web to it. This is the first one I found,

http://www.bicyclepaper.com/articles/5-Midfoot-Cleat-Position-

 

[GrasB]

But would persevere with keeping the ball of the foot over the pedal axle. Much more efficient.

Actually the further back the cleat the more efficient the power transfer, however the more bio-mechanics restricts your maximal power. Mid-foot is about the sweet spot for steady state riding, but ball of foot is required where sudden changes of pace or sprinting is important.

 

[yello]

Mid-foot is about the sweet spot for steady state riding, but ball of foot is required where sudden changes of pace or sprinting is important.

Indeed. The guy I read about who drilled his shoes was doing the RAM (Race across America). For him, it was about hour after hour of constant effort and no sprints.

I've read opinion that a mid-foot position better suits endurance riders generally.

And all that aside, there is simple preference such as I suspect is the case with the OP.

 

[Sharky]

Also, if changing cleat positions, the saddle height needs to be adjusted to keep the appropriate knee angle the same when the leg is at the bottom of the stroke. Lots of posts on here about ideal saddle heights, but as high as you can, without your leg locking into an absolute straight position and ability to touch the road when seated should be disregarded.

Good luck,

Keith

 

[Cyclist33]

If you angle your feet too far out the sides of your heels will hit the chainstays or at least that's a risk and not something I want to deal with thousands of times an hour.

 

[Sharky]

If you need to move the pedal further out, away from the cranks, a pedal extender might help see
http://www.highpath.net

Keith

 

[andrew_s]

SPDs really aren't compatible with a mid-foot cleat position. It's not just the slots, but the absence of a recess on the inside for the metal plate that the cleats bolt to to sit in. If you ride significantly toe-out with the cleats in the normal ball of the foot position, you have to use extenders to move the pedals out so you don't clip your heel on the chainstay or your ankle bone on the centre of the crank.

I'd suggest using flat pedals with power grips instead.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/powergrips/pedal-straps-ec005334
There are a number of SPDs with reasonably smooth soles if you don't remove the cover or cut-out. Ideally they would also lace up rather than have ratchets etc under the power grip strap.