dt swiss rear wheel Q

[Levo-Lon]

Just a quick question before i get the mallet out..
i have the dt swiss 350 i think with the axle shown in the link.
i assume you drift the bearings out by hitting the axle? They have a internal collar so dont slide out.
front bearings are same as any other ive done..but first time with this DT hub


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...gclid=CK3c952EkcwCFQuNGwodkGEK7w&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[accountantpete]

Here's the support instructions

https://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Support/HUBS/DT-Swiss-Hubs-350-Technical-Manual

Looks like a friction job - so take the freehub side collar off and then knock the axle through the other side. Then gently knock the remaining bearing out.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Ive been trying to DL that all afternoon but it wont download,

tho im pretty sure its a machined axle so the colars are all one part..

ive orderd 4 new bearings so ill just do what it looks like needs doing..
front and rear are all rumbling..

 

[accountantpete]

Here's some screen shots

 

[Levo-Lon]

Thats a different axle..That's the same as my red powers..easy to do on them

see link i put up..the axle is a machined job with 2 small colars..
it can only be one way of getting the bearings out. Tap them from the drive side then the brake side

thanks for the help ..

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Getting the bearing out of the freehub body (Part 10) requires an ultra special expensive tool and super strong muscle power. It is an ultra crap design in that the fluted ring in the freehub body tightens with pedaling torque. You can imagine how tight it gets through general use, nevermind a strong pair on a tandem or a big guy on a MTB with a 28-tooth granny gear.

The tool itself often ruptures, yet the ring remains. I've had a special tool made for the job. It had to be solid instead of hollow and had a large t-bar welded onto it so that could fit into a large vice. Long, sad story. Rubbish design.

To remove the axle, you pull off the two end caps with a pair of longnose pliers. It is onliy an O-ring that jams them onto the axle. Put the longnose into the skewer's hole and grip hard and pull hard. If it slips, you have gauges in the caps. Don't.
Then, using a plastic (not rubber) mallet or better, a copper mallet, hold the axle in your left hand, cupping the axle's left side. Hit hard (don't tap) on the right hand side of the axle and it will pop out to the left, complete with the left hand bearing. Now drift the right hand bearing out with a pin punch from the left side.

Unfortunately, the freehub body requires that special tool.

Take note of where Part 4 goes. Everybody gets that one wrong and then nothing works.

To be honest, this is one job I'll let a good bike shop do. Ask first if they have the tool, if they don't, move on.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Sorry guys your all talking about the other type of hub and free hub..with the expensive tool..
its a 142 x12 conversion axle on mine .as per the CC link i posted ..
i have a pawl free hub..which is perfect..its just the wheel bearings that are full of crap and rumbling.
i did service the front ones a few weeks ago but they are past their best.
all new quality bearings should solve it.
i do use the bike in some very muddy horrid clay that gets into everything..

ill post a pic when i remove the bearings..i had a eureka moment while lying awake in the early hrs with a muzzy head..long nut and bolt and a large socket ..i will just wind out the brake side bearing then tap out the other in the usual manner..i could use a mallet but i hate hitting things that cost 40 quid !! To replace if i damage the axle

 

[Levo-Lon]

That was easy, they wound out in a few seconds, use the puller one way then the other using the axle as the removal driver .....the bearings are the worst ive had on a new bike...DT Swiss need to spend more on the supply...tho i do use a washer and 8mth is ok ..tho my aeaston and fulcrums have been perfect for several yrs?? Same abuse

 

[Yellow Saddle]

It is a crap design. Period. DT has made an absolute fortune out of selling rubbish to an unsuspecting public. It isn't the quality of bearings that caused the problem - those are standard industrial bearings, probably SKF (have a look for an etching on the bearing somewhere), but in the wrong application with the wrong type of seals on the hub, they don't stand a chance.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Yes your right @Yellow Saddle ..a poor design indeed..
my fulcrums have the screw down caps and they seal the hub.i checked them last week..2013 bike..they were spotless under the caps..bearings are still perfect.

im looking at a set of wheels to use as a replacement.. but xd driver are the dear option..
hope are quite heavy..but they will be reliable...
i dont mind getting new bearings every yr but if Fulcrum can sort it?

 

[Levo-Lon]

Well ive been having a fiddle as we men do in our little man caves...
my Easton 26 xct wheels are superb with 2.35 hans damph tyres on them ,top end tyres and tubless..
i also have a 42 expander with a 16t on the sram 1070 cassette which works faultlessly...
slight tweak of the 11s mech and i have a decent set of wheels for free..double click on the shifter to drop from 42,36..then they all work like the 11s sram gx cassette,i hardly use the 42 anyway in the flatlands..
the difference in size is nominal looking at the fork clearence and rear subframe..10mm to about 20mm.
yes the circumference is smaller but for a trail ride in mud who cares...

so i have a spare set of wheels for when i need them..

 

[Levo-Lon]

New bearings fitted and i have lovely free spinning wheels again...

oh and i accidentally bought some nice wheels off ebay for a 110 delivered....new RT 86 discs and a shimano 11,42 cassette .from tweeks and crc...i knew i would..220 all in..i have 3 sets of 27.5 tyres so i can change from mud to fast light tyres in a few mins..