Drilling out screws in frames?

[sidevalve]

Looking at the pic I agree the best plan might be to simply leave the existing axle adjustment screwand find a replacement on the other side. The mudguard screw should submit to a pair of {good} molegrips and a well fitting screwdriver used together. The moles on the screw head at right angles to the twist and the screwdriver used in conjunctionwith them in a back and forth movement.
Just out of interest what leads you to believe the frame is 531 ?
It looks quite basic and [I hope I'm wrong] but I've noticed a few frames appearing with 531 labels on them But a double butted 531 frame was [as you know] always quite a catch. Anyhow, as I said I hope I'm wrong. Good luck with the bolts.

 

[GoodLifeSpud]

As a complete novice I was purely going off of the sticker The guy I got it from seemed to think it was a good frame and muttered something about the hubs. The frame does seem really light - but I know you can't tell by that alone.

I'm working from home tomorrow so will look for some of the identifying marks mentioned. Thanks for all the suggestions so far

I liked the car respray idea but am aware I'd have to get someone who knew how to mask off the bb and head tube etc correctly. Any recommendations in Sussex would be really welcome. Otherwise its a trip to Armourtex as a temporary measure.

 

[GoodLifeSpud]

P.s I hardly paid anything for the bike so I've not been miss sold. So don't worry I'm not out of pocket if it isn't a 531.

 

[Tim Hall]

As a complete novice I was purely going off of the sticker The guy I got it from seemed to think it was a good frame and muttered something about the hubs. The frame does seem really light - but I know you can't tell by that alone.

I'm working from home tomorrow so will look for some of the identifying marks mentioned. Thanks for all the suggestions so far

I liked the car respray idea but am aware I'd have to get someone who knew how to mask off the bb and head tube etc correctly. Any recommendations in Sussex would be really welcome. Otherwise its a trip to Armourtex as a temporary measure.

I've used Universal Applied Coatings twice in the past. They're in Pease Pottage, so not a million miles from you. Basic, single colour paint job. No fancy decals though.
For powder coating I've used Foremost Coatings, again twice. They're on the Hobb's Barracks Industrial Estate just up from Felbridge. I wouldn't consider powder coating a temporary measure though.

 

[Cycleops]

The bike looks a bit of a "bitsa". The front wheel is proably not original and the suicide levers don't belong on a quality machine but the threaded rear drop outs are indicative of a good frame. Does it have 531 transfers? It doesn't have a model name on it which is also a bit strange if it is towards the better end of the Raleigh range. It may have been resprayed. The pedals and plastic down shifters indicate lower end model.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Any ideas on what the bike might be

For dating purposes AASHTA

 

[GoodLifeSpud]

Thanks. Took these before I took the bike apart. Don't know if they help any.

 

[sidevalve]

TBH the 531 badge does look original and the weinman calipers were a good fitment in the day so thankfully you may right about the frame. As for the coating / painting try checking out the motorcycle press. Both custom and vintage / classic bike. These places are often more used to dealing with 'smaller' [and more delicate] bits and tend to understand more about blanking off screw threads etc.

 

[GoodLifeSpud]

Cheers have found the frame number, though a couple of the digits are hard to identify. I think it reads WE 0806428, which from the Sheldon Brown suggests its a Worksop frame and I'm guessing 1980. There's also a F&S stamped across the frame numbers heading in the opposite direction. Any ideas what they mean as I can't see any reference to them on Sheldon's site.

 

[Cycleops]

The style of Reynolds badge would seem to indicate from the mid seventies onwards so 1980 might well be feasible. The rear derailleur is not original as it would have had been mounted on the dropout hanger and is a low end model. Shame there is no reference to the model name. From your pics it doesn't look like it has been resprayed.

 

[raleighnut]

Frame no should give model year, if it starts with a W its a Worksop one. Plenty info on the net, Google dating Raleigh cycles

 

[Cyclopathic]

File 'em off. Have you ever missed having those drop out screws on bikes that don't have them?

 

[Sterba]

Yes, that's what I said on 4 July