Dream frame just landed.......

[Cubist]

Adjusting the mech needs several variables checking. Firstly alignment. This is the "B" screw, and it adjusts vertical alignment of teh mech cage/jockeys

There needs to be clearance between teh bottom of the cog and the top of the jockey wheel with room for the chain to pass through without fouling. This takes a bit of trial and eror



But this looks about right. I'll recheck when it's on the big cog as well.

Cables next. This is the front shifter, and needs to be cabled up whilst at granny ring setting, so click off the lever to remove indexing tension. I'm going to remove the old cable


Wind the adjuster barrel all the way in then out a turn or so.



Remove eth rub screw from the cable entry


and don't lose it!


Push the old cable out of the shifter housing and remove.


3m of new outer to measure up and cut to length


When measuring cable outer make sure it's long enough to allow full bar rotation, but not too long to keep things neat and tidy


Outer cable throught the cable clamps on the top tube

through a cable tie on teh hose guide lug and measured to length in the cable stop on the front mech

 

[Cubist]

Cut to length with a decent pair of cable cutters


and make sure the ends are nice and round before fitting the inners



Add a ferrule


and choose a new inner cable. 1.2mm bulk buy from the Woollyhatshop IIRC, about 30p each.


Feed the inner cable through the shifter



Now I always put a thin smear of grease on the cables as I fit them. This is plain old Castrol grease on a piece of kitchen roll. I pull the cable through the grease to leave a sparing coating


before feeding it though the outer cable



Push the ferrule into the shifter barrel... it's a click fit

and pass the other end through the cable stop on the mech
before clicking the ferrule home at that end

 

[Cubist]

Route the cable through the actuator and through the clamp slot

before nipping up nice and tight. You should pull the cable to remove all of the slack, but no actual tension at this stage.


Check that it activates the front mech


It does, but this pic shows that the cage doesn't come far enough over and the chain is fouling the inside edge of the outer cage plate




I therefore use the limit adjust screw to allow teh cage to move so there is about 1mm of clearance between the chain and the cage on big/little.




A check to make sure the chain shifts down to the granny when the shifter is released, and I can trim teh excess tidy up the ends of the cable with an end crimp.





Final task is to trim the cable ties off with a stanley knife, experiences suggests if you don't get them flush with the clip the trimmed edge is razor sharp!

 

[GrumpyGregry]

great thread.

 

[Crackle]

You may not know this (and I'm not expecting you to take them back off and weigh them) but how heavy are the XT cranks, relative descriptions like light etc... are fine. I'm wondering because I went for plain Deore which I reckon is good for the money, XT being double the cost for, as far as I could tell, a few hundred grams of weight saving.

 

[VamP]

I agree. I admire your restraint in cataloguing each step. I'd be out there ripping up trails first, and doing the write up next week

 

[Cubist]

You may not know this (and I'm not expecting you to take them back off and weigh them) but how heavy are the XT cranks, relative descriptions like light etc... are fine. I'm wondering because I went for plain Deore which I reckon is good for the money, XT being double the cost for, as far as I could tell, a few hundred grams of weight saving.

They're 850 g. It's not just weight though (although " a few hundred grammes" soon adds up) but XT cranks are stiffer and of course prettier! Besides which I got these off eBay for £60, brand new just taken off a new bike. If I were buying new, for the performance vs weight argument, I'd split the difference and get SLX. It's all gorgeous and there's about 50g difference to XT.

I agree. I admire your restraint in cataloguing each step. I'd be out there ripping up trails first, and doing the write up next week

I've been working over the weekend, and had to go out to friends for dinner last night, so this is pretty much real time. I've just done the last few bits of faffage this morning , and I've just had a "bedding in ride" but it's arsing it down. As soon as it eases off I've got a little loop lined up!

 

[Cubist]

Rear mech cables next,

Ferruled cabl;e end in the cable stop, again this will be a single run of outer for weatherproofing.

Miore cable ties in the hose guides under the top of the rear triangle



Routes behind the front mech cable and over the pivot

another cable tie before routing under the polycarbonate hose guard on the downtube





and under teh carbon guide behind the head tube


Cut to length after checkig it doesn't foul when the bars are turned


fresh cable through the shifter , lightly greased and fed into the outer

[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/emilysdad/media/Mojo%20Build/098.jpg.html]

[/URL]

and into the rear mech via the cable stop

 

[Cubist]

Through the cable clamp, keeping a bit of tension on the cable,

and nipped up tight


Remember I said we'd check the B limit once we got the chain onto the biggest cog..... well, this isn't enough clearance, it'll foul when you change down, so turn the B screw and watch the jockey move down away from the cog



Neaten the cable ends with a crimp


The jockey and cage should be in line with the biggest cog, luckily this was already bang on, but it's a simple task to line it up using the limit screw.


Now we need to check chain clearance at the front mech when the chain's on the biggest cog, so shift to granny, then to the 36t cog and ensure there's a mm between the chain and the inside of the cage plate nearest the frame


If there isn't, use the limit screw to wind the cage towards the frame until there's the right clearance


It takes both hands, but I then finely adjusted the cable tension to ensure one click per shift up and down the cassette, smooth and trouble free. It took about two minutes.

 

[Cubist]

Last few bits to do now, tidying up all the hose clamps, witht eh Reverb hose clamped on the left side



Now to fit the reverb remote to the bars

Loosen up the brake and gear clamps to snug the remote in the right place. The brakes are inboard of the shifter, and the remote (which is a right hand lever upside down on the left to protect it) between the shifter and the grip collar.






Last check to see that teh remote works without fouling the shift lever, and vice versa


before tightening the Torx clamp bolt



Checking reach to the brake lever.... perfect!


Grips on the right hand bar

and checked to make sure the shift lever falls to hand (thumb!) and the brakes are one finger position.


Tightened again so they will break free in a crash instead of taking big hits and breaking.

 

[Crackle]

They're 850 g. It's not just weight though (although " a few hundred grammes" soon adds up) but XT cranks are stiffer and of course prettier! Besides which I got these off eBay for £60, brand new just taken off a new bike. If I were buying new, for the performance vs weight argument, I'd split the difference and get SLX. It's all gorgeous and there's about 50g difference to XT.

All true: I've gone for trying to save weight elsewhere, like rear cassette, bars and stuff and maybe tyres and tubes, prettiness is the next budget up too.

How come I never see these damn bargains on ebay when I'm looking.

 

[Cubist]

Saddle onto the clamps and lined up


two bolt system means tilt adjust is a doddle



Air into the fork according to manuf recommendation. Hmm, feels a bit firm, but need bedding in.


Remember I guessed it would be about 30lb? well



or for the metricians amongst us:


even the scales are smiling!

 

[Cubist]

So, here it is.






I've been up the road on it and boy is it slack! First impressions are "Wow", but I won't really know until I've taken it out for a decent thrashing. It seems to pedal very lightly for its heft.

 

[Crackle]

Looks great

 

[Cubist]

All true: I've gone for trying to save weight elsewhere, like rear cassette, bars and stuff and maybe tyres and tubes, prettiness is the next budget up too.

How come I never see these damn bargains on ebay when I'm looking.

Wheels and tyres are the biggest gains. That front wheel weighs 1500 grammes with tyre and rotor fitted. I run tubeless which saves some rim weight.