Yup i bought solely for turbo training in the winter………Help!
My brain is falling into an impossibility vortex on reading the words "brand new" juxtaposed with "unridden" when referring to a bicycle.
Yup i bought solely for turbo training in the winter………Help!
My brain is falling into an impossibility vortex on reading the words "brand new" juxtaposed with "unridden" when referring to a bicycle.
BTDT with my Cube. My time for the Alpe D'Huez climbIm thinking of getting an ebike for the turbo...
In that case, your brakes need seeing to.Can I just tell you a little story?
I was on my hydro gravel bike going onto a roundabout when a car just sped straight over the island and came from a dip. I had to squeeze both brakes as hard as possible to avoid the cars path. It still seemed to take forever to bleed off speed. In fact rim brakes with swisstop pads would have just been as good. A few frame makers will keep building rim frames thankfully. I’m sure the pro peloton preferred their rim brakes. UAE & Ineos will still use rim brakes for hilly stages.
Sounds like your brakes are contaminated to some extent with oil or similar. If this happens it means removing the pads, using some form of disc brake cleaner to clean rotors and calliper of all traces of oil etc. Then just fit new pads and you are good to go. White kitchen roll is good for cleaning as it shows up any contamination and once it stays white you are good to go. If you are lucky you can get away with cleaning the old pads but this only works for mild contamination.Can I just tell you a little story?
I was on my hydro gravel bike going onto a roundabout when a car just sped straight over the island and came from a dip. I had to squeeze both brakes as hard as possible to avoid the cars path. It still seemed to take forever to bleed off speed. In fact rim brakes with swisstop pads would have just been as good. A few frame makers will keep building rim frames thankfully. I’m sure the pro peloton preferred their rim brakes. UAE & Ineos will still use rim brakes for hilly stages.
Whilst I have had wheel lockup on both rim and disc, both front and back, it was much easier to control with disc IME. The rim brake almost sent me over the bars, the discs I have managed to ease off before that happened. It could be my experience is greater now with the discs so I can control them better, but I am someone who's always looking to avoid the need to do that sort of braking. 😲Slamming your brakes on and saying you skidded is missing the point. A good brake syatem should allow you to apply the brakes. For the force to ramp up in a progressive predictable manner. For you to not to have to pull heavily so your knuckles turn white. You can tell through your fingers how much you are pulling on the levers. It’s not hardly at all to farking hard as possible. For the levers to have the same amount of pull each time you use them. Without needing adjustment. For you to have a good feel as to how much more you can pull on the levers before you loose traction. To be able to easily back off just enough if you do lose traction. So you regain it. Often shortened to modulation.
Hydraulic discs meet all the above with aplomb.
I think we'd all like to avoid that sort of braking, but sometimes we don't get that choiceWhilst I have had wheel lockup on both rim and disc, both front and back, it was much easier to control with disc IME. The rim brake almost sent me over the bars, the discs I have managed to ease off before that happened. It could be my experience is greater now with the discs so I can control them better, but I am someone who's always looking to avoid the need to do that sort of braking. 😲
Who is the "Alex" you are referring to here?Surprising hearing that from Alex, considering he's a rim manufacturer.
I'm still living in the 9 speed 90's as far as bike componentry is concerned. We don't have disc brakes yet.
I agree with Ming , my Boardman CX 9 speed Sora and Tektro cable discs , second hand from another CC member.9 speed and discs aren’t mutually exclusive 😉