Damaged Innards of Headset

[bennydorano]

Bump

Anyone? Please.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Ok, got the 2nd Hed Doctor and have it on after a couple of attempts. I'm reasonably happy with it - but would just be worried its not 100% flush were the steering column comes through the bike frame to meet handlebars. Any tests I can do to make sure it's 100% safe?

Could you provide a photo?

 

[bennydorano]

I dont think a photo is going to be conclusive as I actually went back and looked at the photo of the bike online and there was little or no difference. There's a slight bit of movement in the area if you give it a bit of shake (compared to my Summer bike), but it does feel sturdy enough - but if slightly out would you be doing damage to the bearings or that area?

 

[bennydorano]

My spacers can move a bit, take it thats not great? Have a hybrid set up on turbo trainer, thinking of taking a spacer from it - footering to make up the mm's required?

 

[henshaw11]

There has to be a gap* from the top of the steerer tube to the top of the stem where the top cap goes, similarly the bung bit of the headdoctor/SFN needs to be low enough so that there's room for the topcap to move down when you take the slack out with the topcap bolt...and you *have* got the stem bolts loosened ?

The manual's here:
http://www.hopetech.com/database/hed_doc_fit_instructuctions.pdf

RTFM

*if there isn't, then yes, you'll spacers - but unless you've swapped headset or stem too, I wouldn't expect this to be the case.

 

[bennydorano]

Trying to get it just right, rung another HD, bike can **** off.

 

[willc]

benny bring that machine down to me in coleraine..tel 70352117 all you will be out is the fuel..will

 

[bennydorano]

Thanks for the offer, I've a 3rd Hed Doctor coming and i'm determined to sort it. If it goes pear shaped this time (and the bike is not threw in the river) I might take you up on your offer.

I noticed from the manual http://www.hopetech.com/database/hed_doc_fit_instructuctions.pdf that on my previous attempts my HD barely got into the steerer and there's no chance it was going down 12mm below the top of the column as recommended (greased too). I noticed mention of hammers in the manual

 

[henshaw11]

Thanks for the offer, I've a 3rd Hed Doctor coming and i'm determined to sort it. If it goes pear shaped this time (and the bike is not threw in the river) I might take you up on your offer.

I noticed from the manual http://www.hopetech....ructuctions.pdf that on my previous attempts my HD barely got into the steerer and there's no chance it was going down 12mm below the top of the column as recommended (greased too). I noticed mention of hammers in the manual

If you can't get the bung low enough then it won't work, and might explain your loose spacers - the bolt isn't threaded all the way down and you'll need some clearance:

http://www.koo-bikes...ement-bolt.html

Also - the rubber o-ring on the (expanding) collar helps stop it dropping down the steerer tube, and gives a little initial purchase to be able to tighten up the bung in the steerer - it *is* possible to use it without - (which may make it easier to get far enough down the steerer) but it'll be a bit of a fiddle to then tighten up the bung. Pretty sure I did that on one fork which has an ally steerer (ie smaller inside diameter than a steel steerer).

What have you managed to break on the previous two heddoctors than means you've bought a third - did you shear the top cap bolt ?

 

[bennydorano]

The second time I got the HD in, I had the handlebars off altogether, inserted the HD and the replaced the bars over the top of it, that gave me enough clearance for the cap & bolt (it was wedged into the steering column pretty good - is that safe/acceptable eventhough it wasn't 12mm down?). The secondary problem was that I didn't think it was flush on - spacers etc.. and there was a bit of movement in then at bottom of spacers area.

Clear as mud

 

[henshaw11]

12mm enough? - dunno offhand - try comparing that to the new one you've got and see what it needs to be - but the fact you've got loose spacers it sounds a bit iffy..

 

[bennydorano]

Finally Think I have it sorted. Two things different this time to previous efforts:

(1) I got the HD down the steerer with plenty of grease and use of a rubber mallett.

(2) Spacer problem not there - but I think the bit inside the stem (designed to fit the stem snuggly on to the steerer - no idea what you call it) had fallen out at one stage (or I took it out) and I put in back in upside down

No unwanted movement now, so I think it's spot on. Only miniscule concern is -I didn't overdo the tightening of the bolt to the HD, with 2 rung HDs I erred on the side of caution (i've no torque wrench).

An expensive lesson to learn.

 

[henshaw11]

Excellent

Yeah, doesn't need to be tight at all, just enough to take the slack out of the bearings, which is barely tight at all - one way to reduce the amount of torque you can use is not use the whole length of the allen key, or just flip it so the long end goes in the bolt, and you're holding the short end. Once you've tightening up the stem bolts, that's what holds it together. You could remove the central bolt/topcap and all should still be well...

If you've only sheared the bolts, you can buy those on their own (see earlier link).

To check for any slack, put your fingers overlapping the upper race, put the front brake on with the other hand, and try to rock backwards/fwds - if there's any slack you'll feel the upper race/cup moving against each other. To check it's not binding, drop the wheel out and try turning the forks (ideally without cables in place) by hold the stem - generally you can tell if it's a bit too tight, whereas if you leave the wheel in the forks, the extra mass of the wheel tends to disguise any binding as you turn the forks.