All you need to do is put the knobblies back on the MTB and pump them up pretty hard. This will help them to dig down deep into snow and find grip, it's the same reason why winter car tyres are narrower than summer tyres. Don't listen to the tosh about riding with low pressures, that will give lower ground pressure over a bigger area and less grip - same reason why powerful
executive cars with fat tyres are so bad on snow.
Or small light mid-engined sports cars with wide tyres -
out-performed on snow by 30 year old 2CVs
You can ride on knobblies in slush, fresh snow and best of all, crunchy re-frozen show like you find on trails after people have walked on it and it's frozen overnight, but be wary of getting your wheel stuck in a frozen wheel rut.
The only time you won't be able to ride is on sheet ice. If you're out on refrozen snow and you encounter a frozen puddle, keep the bike upright, don't touch the brakes and just free wheel straight across keeping your weight central over the bike until you find grip again. More than a puddle though and you will start needing to steer and lean the bike to maintain balance and suddenly it starts getting risky. A fall on ice is somehow even more jarring and bruising than any other surface, it really hurts.
Maybe it's because you go down so fast. But on the other hand, you do tend to slide along on ice doing less damage than on tarmac