Your saddle is still too low IMO, with your heel on the pedal your leg should be straight. This allows for a slight bend when the ball of your foot is on the pedal.With my heel & peddle down I have a slight bend in the knee, knee level with peddle axis when peddle at 90, saddle is level & i raised the handle bars 8mm. It might need some slight tuning though i suspect.
ok i will check this, i'm going over it all again tonight.Your saddle is still too low IMO, with your heel on the pedal your leg should be straight. This allows for a slight bend when the ball of your foot is on the pedal.
Why not mix it up with some outdoor cycling? It's not that cold if you have the right clothing. Unless you live in Minnesota
If using the TT spend some time every few minutes riding out of the saddle
Only enough weight to stabilise the steering should go through the arms else you'll trash your wrists in short order. That's why building up core muscles is important for leant- forwards positions, to keep weight off the wrists.It could be your bars are actually too high. Your arms should be bearing some of your weight, so that it's not all going through the saddle. This may seem a bit awkward to a beginner, so you should start with the bars level with or just below saddle height, then drop it gradually as you build up some core strength and get used to the position.
I'd say that's actually not bad going when you're just starting - and you could progress pretty well from there.Managed 10 miles & was starting to hurt around 10, i'll use that as a marker & see i progress.
ok i will check this, i'm going over it all again tonight.
Only enough weight to stabilise the steering should go through the arms else you'll trash your wrists in short order. That's why building up core muscles is important for leant- forwards positions, to keep weight off the wrists.
I am and it's not. I still want the right padding in the right places, not more padding.If you’re ‘bony arsed’ more shorts / saddle padding will be more advantageous.