cutting outer gear cable

[Ajax Bay]

@Gunk - what is your "regular cable cutter". That's sort of the point. Agree "tiny cross head screwdriver" ftw.

 

[Gunk]

@Gunk - what is your "regular cable cutter". That's sort of the point. Agree "tiny cross head screwdriver" ftw.

Park tool cutter

 

[presta]

It's that long since I cut a cable outer I can't remember why I was doing it, all the ones I've had in years were pre-cut sets.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I've got Park Tool cutters. Given their infrequency of use they have probably cost me a pound per cut or thereabouts. But they are very satisfying to use so it's worth it.

They don't scrunch gear cable outers (compressionless, parallel reinforcement). Brake cables (spiral reinforcement) they might scrunch but I use a file and/or any pointy thing that comes to hand to clean it up.

 

[figbat]

Have you considered the cable routing? I had a shifting issue a while back that was solved by adjusting the way the cable approaches the derailleur - if the cable is a bit tight it can affect how the derailleur moves. I gave it a bit more slack and that fixed it.

 

[T4tomo]

or is the OP using brake cable outer as gear outer, that would explain why its squshing when cut and causing shifting issues?

 

[Nibor]

I stick a dart down the bore to straighten it

 

[bobzmyunkle]

Cable cutter

Cable cutters with a pointy bit to open up the cable outer end.

 

[Proto]

The only way to do it properly is to cut with “parrot beak” cutter, something like the Park Tool, (mine are Knippex), then finish off by gently grinding the ends square on a small bench grinder. Gently so as not to overheat and melt the liner.

£30 and it will last you a lifetime.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tt...ss-electric-bench-grinder-polisher-240v/549vv

 

[autolycus]

Have you considered the cable routing? I had a shifting issue a while back that was solved by adjusting the way the cable approaches the derailleur - if the cable is a bit tight it can affect how the derailleur moves. I gave it a bit more slack and that fixed it.

I don't think it's at the derailleur as the cable entry is quite low and close to the cable bracket. The cable outer is quite short but any longer and it would be "coming back on itself". I am a little suspicious of what might be going on in the downtube; the changing is better on the big chainring and i sort of wondered if the front derailleur cable might somehow be interferring with the rear cable when taut. I do hate not being able to see what's going on.

They don't scrunch gear cable outers (compressionless, parallel reinforcement). Brake cables (spiral reinforcement) they might scrunch but I use a file and/or any pointy thing that comes to hand to clean it up.

These are gear cable outers, but the metal parts are 'spiral' rather than 'parallel' if i understand the distinction you're making.

 

[Andy_R]

These are gear cable outers, but the metal parts are 'spiral' rather than 'parallel' if i understand the distinction you're making.

Gear cables for indexed shifting are "paralell", as "spiral" outers can compress, and be detrimental to shifting. Are you sure they're not brake outers, and you've either bought or been sold the wrong thing by mistake? Can you upload a close up photo of the cut end of the cable.

 

[Gunk]

The only way to do it properly is to cut with “parrot beak” cutter, something like the Park Tool, (mine are Knippex), then finish off by gently grinding the ends square on a small bench grinder. Gently so as not to overheat and melt the liner.

£30 and it will last you a lifetime.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tt...ss-electric-bench-grinder-polisher-240v/549vv

I use a Dremel

 

[T4tomo]

I don't think it's at the derailleur as the cable entry is quite low and close to the cable bracket. The cable outer is quite short but any longer and it would be "coming back on itself". I am a little suspicious of what might be going on in the downtube; the changing is better on the big chainring and i sort of wondered if the front derailleur cable might somehow be interferring with the rear cable when taut. I do hate not being able to see what's going on.

They don't scrunch gear cable outers (compressionless, parallel reinforcement). Brake cables (spiral reinforcement) they might scrunch but I use a file and/or any pointy thing that comes to hand to clean it up.

These are gear cable outers, but the metal parts are 'spiral' rather than 'parallel' if i understand the distinction you're making.

Right two things going,

• you do need a a decent loop at the rear derailleur so it comes back on itself - pop-up a photo of how it looks currently. A biger gentle loop has less friction than a tight curve
• "spiral" outer is brake cable - and it compresses slightly which isn't an issue with brakes, it may even help modulation, but it results in imprecise shifting if used for indexed gears.

Sheldon can explain more.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html?utm_content=cmp-true

So..... you need to replace the gear cable outer with compression less cable and you might need to put a slightly longer run of outer at the RD end, which means you probably need a new inner cable too, plus its much easier to "thread" a brand new inner.

 

[Proto]

I use a Dremel

I have a Dremel and a bench grinder. The latter is so much better. £30. i Struggle to understand why more people don't buy one.

Talking to a well known bike mechanic at a trade show some years back. I asked him if he ground the end of the cables on his builds (wondering if I was the only one that did). He was shocked, most offended, it was as if I’d accused him of being unfaithful to his wife or something. He didn’t actually say “how dare you! ” but did say “Of course I do, how else can it be done“ or similar.

 

[T4tomo]

but did say “Of course I do, how else can it be done“

with a hand file