Creaky headset?

[marzjennings]

Remember to take off the front brake from the forks before you drop the forks Pots.

Why should be take the front brake off? You can drop out the forks without removing the brakes, rim or disc.

 

[potsy]

Headset:
1-1/8" sealed Cr-Mo cartridge bearings integrated with headset, 20mm alloy cone spacer, with 20mm of spacers
Apparently

 

[martint235]

Why should be take the front brake off? You can drop out the forks without removing the brakes, rim or disc.

Yep I managed this, you just need somewhere to rest the handlebars. I've found putting the front wheel between two chairs and then resting the bars on the backs of the chairs works.

 

[zeb]

So it is a threadless, and fully integrated (also named internal), if there are no cups. They are the easiest to change, you just need to replace the bearing cartridge with its equivalent.
But you may also try to clean the bearings using dissolvent, rinsing, drying and generously regreasing the bearings with a grease gun or a thin tipped grease tube.
When you reassemble the threadless system, just follow the instructions on the Park Tool website. Do not overtight, only use 1/8 of turns until you cannot feel any play in the fork.

 

[actonblue]

It might be that the bolts that attach the stem face plate might need a little bit of grease.

 

[potsy]

It might be that the bolts that attach the stem face plate might need a little bit of grease.

Cheers actonblue, will do that too

 

[potsy]

So it is a threadless, and fully integrated (also named internal), if there are no cups. They are the easiest to change, you just need to replace the bearing cartridge with its equivalent.
But you may also try to clean the bearings using dissolvent, rinsing, drying and generously regreasing the bearings with a grease gun or a thin tipped grease tube.
When you reassemble the threadless system, just follow the instructions on the Park Tool website. Do not overtight, only use 1/8 of turns until you cannot feel any play in the fork.

Would this be covered under warranty though?
Don't like messing until something is out of warranty so wouldn't be fixed by the shop

 

[zeb]

Would this be covered under warranty though?
Don't like messing until something is out of warranty so wouldn't be fixed by the shop

I suppose so, if your bike is still under warranty, you should rely on your vendor.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Try first what Actonblue said: it worked for me

 

[accountantpete]

You might like to check your compression ring (that's the metal ring that sits between the bearing at the top of the headtube and the cap. There should be a split in it.

What happens is that the compression ring fits snugly onto the steerer and moves as the steerer moves. But with wear/muck/friction the ring sticks and the steerer moves within the compression ring causing a big creak. Hence the introduction of a split ring to prevent this.

 

[potsy]

OK, so I took it all apart yesterday and cleaned it up, applied new grease and put it all back together.
Wasn't too sure if it all went back on the way it came off, for instance the actual cartrige bearing itself, does it have to go the one way or can it be turned upside down?
It all seemed to go well, even if at one point I was desperately trying to hold the bars, stem, bike and allen key at the same time without it all collapsing in a heap

Fitted it all back together eventually, bit of trial and error to get rid of the play before tightening up the stem bolts fully.
Couldn't get out to test it because of the Summer weather but have just got back from a near 3 mile ride and it didn't fall apart so I am claiming success.

Oh, and the creak is gone

 

[tug benson]

So how easy to grease the headset?

mines is creaking and i think it needs a wee grease..

how easy is it to take apart and rebuild?

what parts will i grease when i take it apart?

 

[Pat "5mph"]

So how easy to grease the headset?

mines is creaking and i think it needs a wee grease..

how easy is it to take apart and rebuild?

what parts will i grease when i take it apart?

Hey, if a novice like me can do it, you can for sure.
Like Potsy, I just took the stem out, wiped it, applied grease liberally, loosely reassembled.
Then I've done the same with the handlebars: mine hold on to the stem with a plate and 4 screws, greased them too, reassembled, tightened the lot, wiped off excess grease.
Ah, before I took the stem out, I marked the insertion level with electrician tape.

 

[cyberknight]

Gald the OP got sorted as i had a simialr issue and one of the rings inside the headset had spilt ,probably beacuse i overtightened it and i ended up with a new headset.

 

[fossyant]

You might like to check your compression ring (that's the metal ring that sits between the bearing at the top of the headtube and the cap. There should be a split in it.

What happens is that the compression ring fits snugly onto the steerer and moves as the steerer moves. But with wear/muck/friction the ring sticks and the steerer moves within the compression ring causing a big creak. Hence the introduction of a split ring to prevent this.

This ^^^^ Make sure you give it a good clean, and grease it up. That was a regular issue on my fixed at first - never returned now.

What I'd do is remove bars and stem, remove spacers, top cap, compression ring. Drop out forks and remove bearings. Wipe all surfaces clean, regrease, bearings woun't need much attion if smooth, but clean the outer surface, slap grease on it and re assemble. Clean and re-grease bar/stem interface and steerer.