Crankset query

[flipflop]

Hi all,

I am currently building up a road bike using a newish frame and brand new campag centaur groupset for the first time.

After assembling the BB and "powertorque" crankset I spun the crank arm using two fingers to flick it round (no chain or pedals fitted) expecting it to at least rotate 3 or 4 times under its own inertia. However it only rotates about a turn and a half. There are no noises of squeaks coming from it but a VERY faint feeling of drag.

Is this normal? Or do I need to get a few miles on it to free up the bearings and spin the grease about a bit?

The crankset seems a bit over complicated to be honest and requires a puller to dis assemble but I am certain I have assembled it correctly.

1,Both left and right BB cups were torqued up to correct settings with a film of white grease on threads.
2, Crank shaft inserted fully and the safety clip installed with a thin film of white grease on applied to shaft and internal bearing surfaces.
3, On left hand cup the rubber seal placed over the shaft followed by the loading spring ( there to remove any lateral play)
4, Left hand Crank arm inserted on splines and 14mm allen head bolt torqued up to 42Nm (this was a bit tight going on as the arm and crank are a snug fit!).

I have tried loosening the 14mm nut and tapping gently with a copper hide mallet to loosten it up and then re torque but its still the same. Could this just be the new bearings needing a run in?

Their must be some campag aficionados out there who can put me right?

Many many thanks Brian

 

[MontyVeda]

i'm no expert but i think is common with sealed bottom brackets.

 

[compo]

I don't know about Campag but what you describe is common for every sealed BB I have fitted. A few miles and it all loosens up.

 

[Breaker Morant]

Rather a BB that wears in than one that wears out.

The slight drag is a sign of tight tolerances in the cartidge bearings, which is what you want.

 

[flipflop]

Thanks for the quick replies guys, I saw a few clips on youtube of a super record and it spun on FOREVER! As a newbie builder I just wanted to make sure in case I was doing damage. I tried the crank on my Bianchi (FSA Crank) and it was free as a bird but it does have a lot more miles on it and its not exactly sealed like the campy.

 

[smokeysmoo]

I fitted a new Campag Veloce gruppo to my commuter, and tbh it was exactly the same as you described. However, it rides perfectly with no draggy feeling at all.
I know what you mean though, it does feel odd when you build it.

 

[accountantpete]

I am only familiar with UT but it's more or less the same principal and the cranks "should" rotate a bit easier.

The bearings may have been packed with grease so as to be harder wearing which would make them stiffer to turn - but I'd have a look at the left hand side. The order should be bearing / spring /and then seal. Check this.

Otherwise I can only think that the right hand bearing has been inserted too far on the axle and is not rotating as freely as it should - you will need to take the cranks off and check this.

 

[flipflop]

I am only familiar with UT but it's more or less the same principal and the cranks "should" rotate a bit easier.

The bearings may have been packed with grease so as to be harder wearing which would make them stiffer to turn - but I'd have a look at the left hand side. The order should be bearing / spring /and then seal. Check this.

Otherwise I can only think that the right hand bearing has been inserted too far on the axle and is not rotating as freely as it should - you will need to take the cranks off and check this.

Ahhhh that would be it! On the non drive side I put the seal on BEFORE the spring washer. Oh well now off to buy a puller... This bike building stuff is expensive first time round! Thanks again for the advice