Presumably square taper. Nearly all do, but TA and (possibly) Stronglight used to use their own sizes. Everything else is 22mm. I'd say for the bike in question a bog standard crank puller is the one to go for.
Threads are standard in my experience. I have come across one where, having screwed the puller to the crank, the head pushed on the crank rather than the BB spindle.
That was a dual Square Taper/ISIS puller. There's an adapter on the puller's pushing head that makes it fit either square taper or ISIS/Octalink splines. If you leave the adapter on, the head is too big to go through the smaller square hole in the square taper crank.
Something that frequently causes the puller to strip the crank is if the washer underneath the crank bolt is left in when using the puller. It is important to remove the washer and give the puller three more threads to hold onto. I have a special tool to cope with the latter eventuality.
[QUOTE 4336616, member: 9609"]I was just having another look at this, what I thought was the locknut on the bearing is just plastic, may be a cover? does it screw off or prise off ? and what will I find behind that?
I will get a better look at it when I get the crank off, I haven't had any success with my three legged puller (which works OK on my bike) so I will have to aquire the special tool,
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That's a regular non cartridge bottom bracket. There are two cups which screw into the frame to act as bearing races for the axle. It will unscrew rather than prise off. See Sheldon brown for further details. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html
I had a cartridge bottom bracket like that once. The plastic is unlikely to seize in the frame but is easily damaged by a slipping tool or a unshipped chain. Make sure you turn the tool the right direction to undo - the right hand side has a left hand thread.
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