complete and utter novice

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deejay74uk

Regular
Hi Guys,

Well i got my OAP of a bike out of the shed on Sunday. Its an old Raleigh mountain bike ..its really old probably 15 years old. I did purchase a helmet from halfords as i have never worn one but thought maybe i should i also purchased lights. I didn't have the confidence to go out in daylight hours so i waited until it was dark and was aiming for 45 min ride. I actually managed 15 minutes lol. I thought i my legs would drop off. Monday i did 15 mins again but my legs and bottom ...ohh the pain !!

I am over weight and very very very unfit (cannot stress that enough), 41 and i'm a woman. I have not purchased any cycling gear yet and i no nothing about bikes apart from riding one. Any info from anyone who has been where i am i'd love to hear from you for advice and tips

PS how do gears actually work ?
Thanks
 

annedonnelly

Girl from the North Country
Everyone starts out like you @deejay74uk. Little & often is the way to go. Are there some quiet cycle paths near you that you can use? If you go out in the dark please get some lights - even cheap ones will mean people can see you.

When I started out I got panniers for the bike so I can easily use it for short trips to the shop or library. No excuses about using the car. Lots of short practise trips.

Gears? Lower gears are easy to pedal - your legs spin around & you don't go so fast. Higher gears are harder to pedal. To go up a hill you need a lower gear than on the flat.

You probably have a lever on the left that controls the front gear ring & the one on the right controls the gears on the cassette on the wheel. While you're learning it might be worth putting the left lever onto the lowest gear - no 1 - and just practise with using a couple on the right lever - 1, 2 & 3 maybe.

Oh, it's important to get the seat height right - it is MUCH harder to pedal if the seat is too low. You shouldn't be able to reach the ground easily when sitting on the saddle.

You don't need special clothes. Just wear what is comfortable & won't get caught in the chain or wheel. Lots of people won't ride in jeans but I do - you certainly don't need lycra :smile:

Let us know how you get on.
 

stephec

Squire
Location
Bolton
Welcome DJ, could you post pictures of your gears and someone might be able to help?

After all that time they'll probably need a service though, so it might be worth getting that done and asking the shop to show you how to use them at the same time.
 

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
Oh, it's important to get the seat height right - it is MUCH harder to pedal if the seat is too low. You shouldn't be able to reach the ground easily when sitting on the saddle.

You don't need special clothes. Just wear what is comfortable & won't get caught in the chain or wheel. Lots of people won't ride in jeans but I do - you certainly don't need lycra :smile:


Some padded shorts may help. :okay:
 

leedsmick

Well-Known Member
Location
leeds
Welcome to the mad cycling world. The first couple of rides are the hardest but you will be surprised how much you improve ride to ride as you get fitter.

My advice would be avoid any hilly areas at first while you build up your legs. Stick to short journeys and most of all enjoy it. Many started where you are right now
 

steveindenmark

Legendary Member
Hi Dee,

You are getting your bike out at the right time of the year. Its just about to start warming up. Dont worry about buying loads of cycling gear. There is nothing to put you off cycling quicker than a dwindling bank balance and if you are like most of us, that is easy to achieve when it comes to bikes.

You buy what you need when you discover you need it. The thing I find most useful is either a bar bag or pannier bag as I dont like to have a back pack.
 

Widge

Baldy Go
Crikey deejay.....well done you for biting the bullet.....but where do we start!?

Firstly.....there is nothing wrong with having an old Raleigh Mountain bike. I ride a modern road bike mostly at the moment but the other bikes I have are a 15 yr old full sus Mountain Bike and a 15 year old hybrid shed bike that I rescued from oblivion. If you have any doubts about your bikes worthiness take it to a local bike shop and let them assess it for you. REST ASSURED...EVEN IF IT IS BEYOND THE PALE YOU CAN GET A PERFECTLY GOOD REPLACEMENT FOR NOT TOO MUCH MONEY..(oops cap lock error there!) They will probably try to sell you their latest and greatest-but there are lots of bargains out there on the interwebz and 2nd hand bikes can be a good deal.

If you are nervous or embarrassed about riding, going out 'after dark' is not the best strategy. Ride in daylight...nobody is going judge you or your riding skills and you will be visible/safer all round.

45 mins is quite epic for a first time rider. 15 mins is perfectly par for the course. Its not about punishing yourself. 15 mins becomes 20-becomes 30-becomes 50 becomes 2hrs becomes 30 miles-becomes all day. iT WILL ALL COME GRADUALLY SO DON'T SWEAT IT. a 15 MIN RIDE WILL DO YOU MORE GOOD THAN AN AFTERNOON ON THE SOFA?

(why do I keep hitting the caps button? ...need less beer!)

You don't need 'special' gear to start riding.
A warm comfortable top or 3, Some trousis that don't get caught in the chain. You don't even need a helmet - but I for one would recommend you get a good one for your own peace of mind and safety. THERE ARE MANY.....you don't need a 'KasK helmet like mine (and Team Skys!)

Overweight? Not a problem.....you can lose some of this if you cycle! Unfit?...not a problem. Cycling can make you fitter. You're a woman?? (See Laura Trott , Lizzie Armitstead et al)

How do gears actually work?

Ah....

Now you're asking! I could write an essay about this but will leave this to others, google and YouTube. Rest assured though, it's not racket science.

Best

w
 

Doobiesis

Über Member
Location
Poole Dorset
I started out with a shopper town bike, with 3 gears of which only two worked!

Three years later I've got a road bike and a MTB and still love it to death. 15 mins will turn into 30, then 45 then you won't wanna do under an hour - then four or five hours seem easier.

Well done getting out on an old bike, not many would have that kind of 'wheel'power (joke) - keep us posted on how you're progressing.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
a few points that are likely non-obvious to a so-say beginner, some already made upthread.

saddle height - worth getting this right as it makes a huge difference to the hard work required and comfort. A good rule of thumb is straight leg with pedal in line with the frame down tube and heel on pedal. This will thus be about right with slightly bent leg and toe on pedal. There's a formula based on inside leg you can use too. Either way saddle may end up higher than you'd have thought - you won't / shouldn't be able to get feet flat on floor if saddle is right height.

The ball of your foot should be on the pedal rather than the instep.

Saddle - paradoxically a soft or padded saddle is likely uncomfortable and wrong. A harder unpadded saddle is likely better - but the specific model and shape needs to suit you. I like brooks leather saddles but I have a different arse from yours so Brooks may or may not be right for you. Padded cycle shorts are not the answer to a bad (for you) saddle but are more about stopping chafing and long distance comfort.

If carrying luggage, panniers are vastly better than a rucksack.

Mudguards are a very good thing.

Helmet is debatable - wear one by all means, but suprisingly they don't appear to reduce injury on average when made compulsory like in Australia, so it's not clear cut more safety at all and may help or hinder in any particular case. Don't want to debate it here - but it's fair to say it-s not as clear cut as you'd reasonably think

Make sure you understand the gears properly. Not being patronising as it's not actually obvious unless told that it's somewhat undesirable to "cross chain" with biggest (high gear) front cog to biggest (low gear) back cog. It's also usually considered better to spin relatively fast in a lower gear than grunt in a high gear. At least 60 rpm to maybe 90rpm+ say. Typically use the biggest front cog (high) with the high-half of the back cogs for downhill, flat, and with a tailwind. Then move to the middle front cog for the middling back cogs and mild hills, and small front ring for proper hills with the big back cogs. . Low gears are a very good thing - so if you're struggling up hills it may be possible to lower the lowest gear - typically by putting bigger cogs on the back. May or may not be necessary - and may or may not be viable cost wise too. If it's an old mountain bike likely quite low already to be fair

Don't dismiss out of hand things like drop handlebars or clip in pedals as only for "experts" or "racers". Both make things easier. Maybe a future choice - and it is a preference not a " do this"


Tread isn't necessary nor at all desirable for road use. For various physics reasons smooth is best for push bikes on tarmac wet or dry .

Brakes - nearly all serious braking is front only. When braking hard the back wheel is almost off the ground and therefore can't give you any stoppyness (technical term). As a kid you, like me, were probably told to worry about going over the handlebars - whilst there is something in this ( just about) you do need to teach yourself to use the front brakes properly with confidence. Makes sure they're adjusted probably, cables free etc and given it's been laid up worth giving rims / blocks a clean with meths.

Buy a track pump - a so-say luxury that is basically essential. and pump the tyres fairly hard - towards the high end of whatever numbers are written on the tyres especially if you're a big lass. I'm guessing 60psi or more but read the numbers. My narrow road oriented tyres are more like 100psi for comparison.

Get a spare tube or two and know how to mend a puncture. Old tubes could be semi-perished if bike has been shed-bound for years - ditto tyres - check if they are cracked.

And a key hint for road cycling - stay out of the gutter - maybe 1metre from curb and take the lane properly if there's a bend, pinch point or especially if your are turning left. If you get beeped, f*&^k 'em . You will be safer and get fewer close passes

Anyhow -sorry for a "do this", "do that" tone - but typing on phone so harder to be poetic.

And welcme to the joy of cycling
 
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