Hmmm, just had a look at the offending clonky crank.
Greasing the fork dropouts and re-inserting the front wheel didn't help, unfortunately, but doesn't hurt to have done it anyway.
Grabbing both cranks and rocking back and forth (hard) at the clonking position *does* yield a tiny bit of side to side motion. As far as I can tell, the movement is in both cranks, not just the left one, so I guess this must mean the rocking and clonking is coming from the BB.
So it looks like it's back to the LBS for a new one, unfortunately!