Clicking on new bike, no matter what I do.

[Sloth]

I’ve been riding my new (late last year) Giant Fastroad Advanced 1 for a few months, although actually only a handful of times in reality.
The bike has been set up by the LBS when I collected it and again after I returned it for the first (free) service.
However, I am plagued by a clicking sound that sounds like cross chain noise. Thing is that I’ve tied the half clicks on the shifters and played with which gears/combos to use the small or large front crank on etc. It sometimes makes it a little better but not always and it never fully seems to go away no matter what combo of rear and front gear I try. Surely it can’t be set up wrong after only just being serviced and indexed etc? So what am I doing wrong?
This fussing around is precisely why I was considering a 1x set up before eventually opting for this 105 2x set up.
Am I being unrealistic? Should I expect some clicking and catching sound from a new bike that retails at over £1,800?
I’ve checked and greased my seat post and removed the clip on mudguards so it’s not them. The pedals are tight and greased (and also new).

 

[vickster]

Take it back to the LBS and explain the issue for them to take a look (presumably you've had a play with the barrel adjusters and oiled the chain already?)

 

[Ming the Merciless]

You need to try and do a bit of self diagnosis.

Only when pedalling?
Only in certain gear combinations or all of them?
How many seconds or pedal strokes between clicks?
Only if going uphill or pushing hard?
Etc.

 

[Cycleops]

Rather than mess with it take it back. There must be some sort of warranty on it.

 

[Peter Salt]

Rather than mess with it take it back. There must be some sort of warranty on it.

Agree. As it's a new bike - you paid for the bicycle as well as warranty, and initial servicing. Take back to retailer and tell them to resolve it.

 

[Ajax Bay]

"Clicking on new bike, no matter what I do."​

I came to this thread assuming that the OP had OCD (obsessive clicking disorder) and could not stop themselves buying a new bike. How disappointing!

 

[SpokeyDokey]

An alternative view to taking it back and assuming it is the FD:

Download the appropriate Shimano doc' and set up the FD yourself.

IME no-one else will expend the amount of time, energy, and possibly love, as you will on getting the set-up near perfect.

Also ime, any Shimano FD with an R in front of it's model number has parents who are not married.

I got the hump with mine and got the LBS to swap it for an older 105 model - the long armed FD5800.

Still a faff to set up (4 positions) but it does work well within it's stated limitations ie noise expect on little front with three littlest rear and big front with two biggest rear - despite the little rubber bumper insert within the cage.

View it as a bonding exercise.

PS: my Zen-like approach to irritating noises dissapates when dealing with spoke clicks and saddle clicks.

 

[Grant Fondo]

yeah take it back. Press-fit BB could be the culprit?

 

[Cycleops]

yeah take it back. Press-fit BB could be the culprit?

 

[Red17]

Had a similar ticking issue with my Giant a couple of years ago, particularly noticeable on steep hills Couldn't pin it down, but it stopped when I swapped out the rear wheel.

 

[Cycleops]

There you go @Sloth , swap out the wheel on your near new bike and all will be well.

 

[roubaixtuesday]

Doesn't sound like FD to me. Rear maybe.

If it's front, it's very easy to see on the stand if it's touching, and adjust accordingly.

If it's rear, you will be able to resolve it by adjusting the inline tension screw whilst riding.

The Park tool guides are excellent resources for this.

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment

There are many other potential causes. Wheels can cause these sorts of noises; despite the cynicism above, swapping the rear wheel to eliminate that as a cause is excellent advice.

 

[Sloth]

Thanks guys, some interesting and witty responses.
It only happens in certain gear combos but not only the extremes of cross chaining.
The chain sort of sounds like it's not fully happy with where it is but not unhappy enough to slip or change.
The noise seems to come from the FD rather than the rear.
I have used the 'tweak' of half pushing the gear changer and that sometimes helps but not fully and not always.
I may have to take it back to the LBS to sort, although it is around 45 mins away and a faff getting the bike into my car (Volvo S60 saloon).
Still it is what it is and it's better than paying someone more local to do what the LBS should do for free I suppose.

How would changing the rear wheel make a difference? Is it to do with spoke noise or something?

My initial concern is that I am the issue, as in I'm just not using the gears correctly, and/or not fully grasping the acceptable front to rear derailleur gear combinations?
It's practically a brand new bike with less than 100 miles on it, so surely it can't be anything serious....can it?
Either that, or my expectations of a whisper quiet and butter smooth ride are drastically misguided?

 

[Peter Salt]

If the bike is built properly and adjusted correctly, it doesn't matter what technologies it uses - should be smooth. If the LBS is so far away - I would start chatting to them about an inconvenience fee - that might make them look at the bike with more attention. If it doesn't go away - don't hesitate to give the bike back and demand a replacement. If the manufacturer wants to go to court - don't worry, they won't - your £1800 bike is cheaper to manufacture and replace than bothering a barrister for them.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Suggest a quiet drive train is a 'happy' drive train and a perfectly reasonable and achievable aspiration.
From the OP's 'extras' I'd say this was RD fine adjustment, not the FD.