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I also found your encounter with the young girl aka known as mama to be fascinating and touching. And something else too that my addled brain is struggling to find words for.

According to Wiki, St Rafa of the North is 'the highest town in Nicaragua, which attracts tourists from many countries for hiking, swimming and vacations'. I wonder if we should add cycle touring to the list of tourist attractions? Or maybe Hobbes could add a comment to the Wiki listing?!
 
Location
España
I haz a coupla questions.

Try as I might, I can't interpret this one. Predictive text imposing itself?

I've always wondered whether the coffee in places where it is produced, is better than it is by the time it's travelled and reached us over here. And Nicaragua is a producer of particularly fine coffee is it not?

I've noticed that on the road, you generally come across a small store or somewhere to buy a snack or drink, even when on the backroads. In NZ, an ostensibly more 'developed' country with a similar population, there are parts where you can go for miles and sometimes days without any refuelling options.
No question really, but do you have any observations why central America appears to be more helpful to the thirsty/hungry touring cyclist in this regard?
Nope!
I don't use predictive text - between English, Spanish, ocasionaly Dutch and rarely some German my poor phone would melt!

I have to say I'm disappointed - if I'm going to expend huge effort cycling these roads it's hardly too much to ask for a bit of effort to interpret?^_^

Everyone knows light concrete works really well in a tortilla. Heavy concrete, that's another matter altogether! That's best served with a good salsa and eaten with a fork.^_^

It may be easier to read it as:
I stopped for a second breakfast of peanut butter and banana.
I ate it sitting on the concrete base of a light pole.
(There's even a picture of said base & light in the post!):okay:

Coffee?
You'd be surprised. Comedor coffee is served black and sweet, very sweet. I used to drink my coffee very sweet but even this is a bit much for me.
A fancy coffee house will have varieties - if one can be found. I rarely go as they are so expensive and if I do I have a latte (comfort coffee) so I'm not the best judge.
I did load up on coffee from my stay in the mountains - feckin' delicious! The Bikepacking lads & lassies would have a fit if they saw my coffee bag! They could fit an expedition trip in it!:laugh:

Stores?
I think @CharlesF is closer to the truth.

These are not stores like we're familiar with, often little more than a hatch in someone's house.
They can be stocked very poorly or very widely. In Nicaragua, especially, they can be very poor.
They serve the local communities, some of whom are living half way up the mountain off the road.
Phone credit appears to be important.
People lack transport for grocery shopping so depend on these for basics. And treats.

Don't forget, economics here are very, very different. 98% of these would be unviable in our world but with little work, little state support anything that allows someone or a family to survive will continue.

Deliveries to these stores are Cash on Delivery. If anyone has ever tried to operate a retail business, especially a low turnover one under those conditions it can be very, very difficult.

Often they are clustered. There might be 3,4 or 5 in a small settlement along the road. Do they specialise? I don't know. Very few stock cigarettes, for example but will direct me to another. It may be the next town! I'm assuming the high stocking cost and risk of theft is a factor.
Water, surprisingly, can be rare. Cold drinks are likely to be sugary sodas. And often not even cold.
A village will have a couple of fruit and veg stalls too. And a little hut making tortillas. Fresh meat though? Not so much. Then again, a lot of people keep animals, especially chickens. Pigs have become a very common sight outside of houses!

The likes of an Oxxo convenience store such as at a petrol station are rare outside of the big, big towns or maybe a junction. If they exist they are lightly stocked. Nicaragua is too poor, it appears, for such frippery.

México is the king of roadside refreshment, though.
 
Location
España
I realize that I am lagging in my reading, but I just had to comment on that encounter. Possibly the observation I will most remember.

Willie

I may be wrong but I think the fact that I'm on a bike helps lubricate or even spark some of these interactions. What I omitted from the post was that she initially came over with a plastic plate and cup to offer me for my breakfast. I'm sure someone on a bike setting up for breakfast is not a common sight - and is perhaps treated as such.

I'm wary of dipping into the political side of things, but I think it's always good to hear different perspectives.
To do that, I need to keep my big trap shut!😊

It's a lesson I hope I can hang on to.

I also found your encounter with the young girl aka known as mama to be fascinating and touching. And something else too that my addled brain is struggling to find words for.
Sorry, I'm going to evangelise for a moment....
Travelling on a bike is great, I mean
G R E A T for giving us (or at least me) time to let things settle and figure them out.
In a car or a bus you're at your next destination before you know it and moments, experiences are lost.

According to Wiki, St Rafa of the North is 'the highest town in Nicaragua, which attracts tourists from many countries for hiking, swimming and vacations'. I wonder if we should add cycle touring to the list of tourist attractions? Or maybe Hobbes could add a comment to the Wiki listing?!
So, I camped in the highest town in Honduras and passed through the same in Nicaragua! ^_^ I'd love to say they are all part of the plan but that'd be a big fib!^_^ Serendipity is all.

The place is tiny and I saw no evidence of hotels (but I did avoid the steeper streets). Tourism here has been devastated by political unrest in 2018.
It was more my kind of place though.
 

cwskas

Über Member
Location
Central Texas
Everyone knows light concrete works really well in a tortilla. Heavy concrete, that's another matter altogether! That's best served with a good salsa and eaten with a fork.
:laugh: :bravo: :dance:

That's a good one. Had Kathy & I both laughing. I had to reread that particular line

"I stopped for a second breakfast peanut butter and banana on a concrete base for a light."​

several times myself before I understood it.

Willie
 
I though it was the different transport. I imagine in Nicaragua, there is more pedestrian, horses, etc. Slower and less distance traveled in an hour, or day.
In NZ, cars, etc are the main transport and its easy to get to a store miles away.

Who knows?

The two aren't mutually exclusive: low population densities and high car ownership mean that shops become even more sparse. It's a known problem when planning public transport.
 

cwskas

Über Member
Location
Central Texas
. . . this Travelogue is mine.
The fact that I have an audience only has two influences;
I am more likely to moderate my language ^_^
It instils discipline.
. . . .
Today, I was very glad of an audience since it was probably the only reason I took so many photographs.
Thank you for 'keeping it real' . . . and the photos! Both add a welcome dimension to the story.
*I hope you can now understand why I split the day into two posts😊
What a fine campsite!

Willie
 

cwskas

Über Member
Location
Central Texas
Since México it's advisable to get used to what they are before progressing too fast. Such is the volume of water they need to cope with that grates have to be big!
img_20210716_151813-jpg.jpg
Yikes! Makes me think about your description of the hidden holes after or during a rain in CDMX.

Willie
 
Location
España
Yikes! Makes me think about your description of the hidden holes after or during a rain in CDMX.

Willie
It's almost a given that you shouldn't drive on the roads in México at night. The common response is because of crime but I've read of more vehicles getting trashed by drains, speedbumps and the like than by criminals.

On a bike, near the edge of the road I am very aware of what can crop up!

There's an episode of Frasier where he learns to ride a bike and can't avoid riding into obstacles. All he has to do is see something and he focuses on it - until he hits it.
Frasier moments worry me😊
 

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Anyone have any contacts in Costa Rica who may be able to store a bike and gear for a few days? ^_^
Sadly no. I have few relatives or even friends abroad - I guess an old university chum on the Isle of Man will be of little help?

Have you thought of checking for any cycling clubs in the vicinity? Might have members who might be able to help. I appreciate that might be the naive assumption of someone who's never travelled in such lands, especially given the low levels of income amongst many of the folks you've encountered, but perhaps possible in centres of population such as one with an airport?
 
A couple of thoughts.
Almost all of the roads in Nicaragua seem to have lovely tarmac, visible painted lines and no cracks or holes, although there may not be a decent shoulder, except for the backroads you enjoy, which must be lovely to ride on. Which I sent in contrast to Mexico and all countries south. Any theories to why this may be?
The natives seem much less friendly than the last three countries you have been through, again the contrast. Again, any ideas why this might be? Maybe just a national temperament, like the whinging poms?!!
Love the picture of the bike in the rain, it looks just like southern England, here right now!!
 
Location
España
A couple of thoughts.
Almost all of the roads in Nicaragua seem to have lovely tarmac, visible painted lines and no cracks or holes, although there may not be a decent shoulder, except for the backroads you enjoy, which must be lovely to ride on. Which I sent in contrast to Mexico and all countries south. Any theories to why this may be?
The natives seem much less friendly than the last three countries you have been through, again the contrast. Again, any ideas why this might be? Maybe just a national temperament, like the whinging poms?!!
Love the picture of the bike in the rain, it looks just like southern England, here right now!!
Oooh! Tricky!

I think the roads are better because relatively recent Nicaraguan history saw the overthrow of a dictator family and a sharp swing to a hard Socialist government (and eventually not far from a dictatorship, it seems).
Road building is a good way to spread money around, show progress (and donning cyclical hat) get to troublesome areas and keep control?

Honduras was the outlier in terms of friendliness so Nicaragua was always going to suffer in comparison^_^

Just theories...
It's usually assumed I'm from the US. I wouldn't be surprised at some standoffishness.
Serious political unrest in 2018 may play a part too.
Political symbols, statues, memorials for the Sandanistas were prominent where I travelled. Almost cult like in terms of prominence and frequency.
It would seem the movement is a dictatorship in all but name now and political opposition is jailed.
Such things tend to make people reserved with strangers.

Finally, I travelled a less well travelled route, off the PanAmerican for a good while. That may have an impact too.


For balance.....
A Nicaraguan speed bump!
603208

Just rocks dumped on cement and painted yellow. Brutally tricky on a bike!
 
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